Table of Contents

Dedication

Title

Contents

How to Use this Ebook

Foreword by Mark Schatzker

Introduction

Ingredients

Steaks

Breeds

Burgers

Rearing

Grilled

Feed

Raw & Cured

Slaughter

Fried

Hanging beef

Smoked

Butchery

Braised

Buying beef

Baked

Beef & the environment

Roasted

Health & beef

Index

Glossary

Copyright

Dedication

I dedicate this book to the late, great Joshua Ozersky, my friend and partner in Meatopia, who inspired me to write, and wrote the foreword to the resulting book Hog. He is profoundly missed.

It turns out writing is not as easy as I once thought; it really is a craft, and Josh’s prose is where I turn when I need to be inspired in my own stumbling efforts. He wrote this:

“As a food writer, I am handicapped by gross deficiencies. I’ve never worked in a restaurant or gone to cooking school, and am utterly ignorant of whole cuisines, but no man feels food moredeeply. It’s my whole life, and my connection to it is wildly, shamefully emotional: I live it, and that bone-deep obsession powers my work. That honesty, unwholesome though it may be, fixes my view and grants me the kind of zeal and rancor that makes writing about roast beef meaningful.

When I started to write about food my voice led me through my dark places. It makes my work good, or at least honest, and honest is enough.”

Joshua Ozersky 1967–2015

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Contents

Foreword by Mark Schatzker

Introduction

Ingredients

Steaks

Breeds

Burgers

Rearing

Grilled

Feed

Raw & Cured

Slaughter

Fried

Hanging beef

Smoked

Butchery

Braised

Buying beef

Baked

Beef & the environment

Roasted

Health & beef

Index

Glossary

How to use this ebook

Select one of the chapters from the main contents list and you will be taken to a list of all the recipes covered in that chapter.

Alternatively, jump to the index to browse recipes by ingredient.

Look out for linked text (which is blue) throughout the ebook that you can select to help you navigate between related recipes.

Foreword by Mark Schatzker

Eating is a funny thing. The desire for food to be at its most delicious is universal. And yet, the food we often eat is far from that ideal. It’s all thanks to the human mouth.

On the one hand, you need a mouth in order to eat – that much is obvious. But when meals end, we begin using our mouths for something else: talking. This is where things often go wrong.

We get hung up on words. For example, we get obsessed with places. Every ten years or so, some new place pops into vogue, and within a week it seems every chef is doing his own take on some obscure regional recipe, particularly, it seems, chefs who have never visited that area. We also become fixated on techniques. A few years ago, there was a spell of several months where no one who knew anything about food wanted to eat anything that wasn’t cooked in a plastic bag.

There’s nothing inherently wrong with places or techniques. But they are not, in themselves, a silver bullet conferring deliciousness on a sauce, a dish, or a meal. In our enthusiasm for good food, we get lost in concepts and very often end up making food bad. There are, however, a vanguard of chefs who measure food by a simple but all important metric: the way it tastes. Richard Turner is one. He’s not a traditionalist – there are recipes in this book for Kimchi Hash, West African Suya and Burmese Beef Curry. But he’s not taken in by the food world’s frequent bouts of silliness. He just loves food. And he wants other people to love the food he loves, and for the same reason.

Which brings us to beef, the king of all meats. The bedrock protein. The eternal object of our primordial meat hunger. When a boneless breast of chicken looks in the mirror, it wishes it was beef. All of which makes today’s sorry state of beef all the more perplexing.

Over the past several decades, we have engineered our agricultural system to produce beef at the lowest possible price. Beef today is cheap. It’s amazing to consider that you can walk into a supermarket and buy a rib eye steak – a vanishingly scarce piece of carcass – for a few pounds or dollars. But it’s lost the one thing that made it so desirable in the first place: flavour. So we do to beef what we do to boneless chicken breast – we smother it in sauces and rubs and marinades.

To any beef lover, loving beef has become inordinately difficult. It’s as though red meat has lost its voice.

I wrote an entire book about what happened to beef. When it came out, I started hearing from all sorts of chefs, most of whom would write to tell me that they had cracked the mystery of the perfect rub (it would invariably involve powdered soup mix), or magical marinade (which was actually a salad dressing), or the perfect ratio of brisket to chuck in a burger grind (which makes no sense, because no two briskets and chucks are alike). And then I heard from Richard Turner, who worshipped at the same altar of simplicity. A good steak, he said, needed two things: fire and salt.

If you love beef, listen to Richard Turner. Listen to what he says about what kind of cows you should eat, what those cows should eat, the kinds of lives they should live, how they should be killed, cut, and, finally, cooked. Take a morsel of that beef – that Smoked Prime Rib, that scrap of Pickled Tripe, that slug of Beef Heart Tea – and put it in the place it was destined for: your mouth. More eating, less talking. It’s the way food was meant to be.

Mark Schatzker, 2017

Introduction

When meat cravings hit, more often than not what springs to mind is beef… and specifically steak. It’s the embodiment of premium meat, the most expensive thing on the menu. There are restaurants devoted solely to beef – dimly lit and decorated in leather and dark wood, steakhouses are temples to our carnivorous voracity. As well as its own restaurant genre, beef has its own piece of cutlery: the steak knife, large, imposing and Ramboesque. Steakhouses might show you the meat raw, carried out to diners on a tray with various chunks of dark red flesh for us to point at. “That one” we might say; it’s all very primal. Prime is about beef and steak: why it’s special and what it takes to make this king of meat great.

In this book, I’ve explained what it takes to grill the perfect steak, roast the perfect joint and make the perfect burger, as well as the different ways to get the best out of the cuts and – in some cases – breeds. These are guidelines rather than rules. If you have read the book, you will hopefully be using a nice piece of extensively farmed pure-bred native beef, and you’ll understand that uniformity is not one of its many excellent qualities. I’ve put together some 160 or so recipes, some classics from around the world and some unique recipes from my notebook. As a rule of thumb, 1kg (about 2lb) of beef feeds four to six people, but I’m not the meat police, so I am really leaving it up to you.

Between the recipe chapters, I will also highlight the shortcuts most farmers are pressurized into taking, at great cost to our palates and even to our health. In a destructive cycle, our meat lust fuels intensive farming, which in turn makes it cheap to buy and encourages excessive meat consumption. It is a cycle that benefits no one, including the farmers forced to sell meat so cheaply that their sales barely cover their costs. It’s not good for our own health, nor for the health of the animals we farm.

There is a lot of scaremongering in the media about meat eating, and consumption of meat has been linked to obesity, diabetes, heart disease and certain cancers. Since much of the meat eaten around the world is intensively farmed, and since these scare stories don’t differentiate between intensively farmed and naturally reared meat, this is an understandable mistake. In the chapter on health I make the case for judicious consumption of naturally reared, high-quality beef, as part of a healthy, balanced diet.

Elsewhere in the book, I outline the differences between intensive and extensive farming and why they are important. There is a vast difference between the meat from animals raised with pride and the meat from animals bred for profit, and this is why they taste so different. Much of this difference is down to feed, which is one of the most important factors in beef flavour and health.

I also discuss slaughter, which is as important as how you rear the animals, and I explore the hanging of beef and the pros and cons of extended ageing. Finally, I’ll tell you a bit about butchery techniques and give some rough bovine myology (where all the bits come from).

In Prime I want to make the case for sensible shopping, buying less beef but of a better quality – meat that’s been reared by farmers who care. One way to avoid intensively farmed beef is to be much choosier about where we buy it. Few supermarkets sell good, extensively farmed meat, and labels can be misleading, so I give an honest and truthful opinion of what they actually mean.

As with my previous book, Hog, there is a whole chapter on breeds and why the breed informs flavour. I’ve stuck to the important beef breeds, as I’m reasonably certain a description of breeds such as Ankole-Watusi is beyond the remit of this book (though it is a fine-looking animal).

Prime is a celebratory story running from Angus to White Park, with a little zealous drum banging along the way, and if I’ve climbed on my soapbox a little too much, I apologize. I hope to give good reasons to source, buy and cook beef with respect for the farmer, the animal and your stomach. Like any good story, there are villains, but I’ve tried not to condemn out of hand – we omnivores are all in this together and, collectively, we share responsibility for the beef industry of today. As the beef guru Mark Schatzker opines, it’s much better to try to influence from the inside than to cast stones from the outside.

Ingredients

It is difficult to write this section without sounding like a broken record, but I’ll try. The general gist is to buy consciously, ask questions and don’t settle for second best.

Meat As explained in more detail in the section on Buying Beef, buy the very best you can afford, if possible from someone who is knowledgeable on the subject. Ask questions like “How was the animal farmed?” “How old was it?” “What did it eat?” “What breed was it?” and be prepared to spend a little more for a little less quantity. Beef should be an occasional weekly extravagance – yes, you read that right. I’m suggesting we all eat a bit less meat, but of a lot better quality.

Fruit & vegetables Many of those immaculately clean and uniform vegetables you see in the supermarket aisles and in their sterile packaging have been farmed industrially. They are less nutrient-dense than vegetables farmed organically, or those grown by the small band of farmers who farm on a small scale and naturally. The supermarket versions also taste of less: one of the secrets of the great ingredient-led restaurants is their vegetable sourcing. The carrot or squash you eat at St John, the River Café or Chez Panisse is not the same as the one you bought in the supermarket, and if you search out your own supply you absolutely can cook food thatis just as tasty as at those restaurants.

It’s also important to buy in season. Asparagus bought in winter will have been grown in a different hemisphere from where you live and flown halfway around the world. That means it will have been produced with some serious jiggery-pokery and downright shenanigans so as still to look fresh upon arrival. (And that’s not to mention the cost of getting it there.) Buy as much as you can seasonally – for your taste buds, your wallet and the environment.

Salt I use sea salt almost exclusively in my cooking;it contains trace minerals that give it a more complex flavour than ordinary table salt. Table salt also contains anti-caking agents that adversely affect the flavour of your food. Learning how to use salt is perhaps the biggest secret to great cooking – too much makes food taste salty and creates a kind of “seasoning fatigue” when the dish is eaten, while too little means food tastes bland.

Spices All spices should be used fresh, especially pepper, and should be freshly ground. If you’re not doing it already, this one small piece of advice is going to improve your cooking immeasurably. When spices are ground, they start to release volatile oils into the air – that’s flavour! Buy small amounts from a source with ahigh turnover, and grind as you cook, using either a mill or a mortar and pestle.

Vinegars & oils Not all vinegars and oils are made equal. With oils it pays to buy small bottles as oftenas possible: although they might not go off, they certainly deteriorate over time, particularly olive oil. Vinegars keep well, but avoid industrially produced ones. If at all possible, look for live, naturally brewed vinegars – or go one better and make your own.

Dairy Okay, it’s soapbox time again: buying ethically farmed grass-fed dairy is as important as buying good grass-fed meat. Good dairy should be consumed in reasonable quantities. Good dairy also tastes better – quelle surprise! If you can find cultured cream and butter from grass-fed herds, you are in for a treat. Buy cheeses from experts in the field, who have kept them carefully. Never, ever buy grated cheese: it tastes rank.

Eggs As with meat and dairy, pay close attention to where your eggs come from and how they are produced. It matters that hens are treated well, with room to range and forage. The reason is that if we eat animal products, our consciences should be clear about how those animals lived. It also matters because healthy, happy animals produce tastier, more nutritious, safer food, and nowhere is that clearer than with eggs. Buy free-range and, if you can, buy organic – or if you have the space, keep hens yourself and enjoy their freshly laid eggs.

Fish There’s very little fish in this book, so I’ll keep this brief. Buy sustainably. Treat fish with the same respect as you do meat – ask questions and avoid factory-farmed fish or endangered species such as tuna.

I use a fair quantity of anchovies and it’s not always clear how sustainable they are. As a species, anchovies are near the base of the food chain, and the impact of their large-scale removal on the marine ecosystem is poorly understood. Keep an eye on this and avoid using them if there’s any question.

Nuts When buying nuts, we might consider the ethics of production: one of the nut industry’s biggest concerns over the years has been labour standards. One issue is home working – where employees process nuts at home – which is difficult to monitor for safety and hours worked. Even in factories, women working in nut production earn meagre wages and are exposed to smoke and the nut’s corrosive oil. As a rule, we should assume there are issues with labour unless proved otherwise. Farming all over the world is a low-margin business, with pressure on cost and therefore on labour conditions. Look for the Fairtrade mark, which resembles a person waving over a yin-yang symbol.

Avoid Chinese pine nuts if you can. I once fell foul of something called pine mouth, after eating Chinese pine nuts bought from a supermarket. All I could taste afterwards was an overriding metallic flavour, which made my job extremely difficult, aggravated by my lack of information on it at the time – I didn’t know it wasn’t permanent! I regained my taste buds after a week, but the only thing I could drink during that time was water, and all food tasted unbearably metallic. Good for weight loss, if nothing else.

Butter-fried steak with golden garlic

Classic steak garnishes

Grilled Portobello mushrooms

Slow-roasted tomatoes

Onion rings

Watercress

Jerked steak & cauliflower

Philly cheese steak

Steak shawarma

Middle Eastern rub

Bread & butter pickles

Beef dripping fries

Steak fajitas

Steak sandwich

The magic of hollandaise

Variations that go well with steak

Steak tacos

Basic beef rub

Chipotle ketchup

Steak salad

Side dishes for steak

Grilled lobster with garlic butter

Lobster fideuá

Wild mushroom orzotto

Wild mushroom fricassee

Braised shallots & garlic with bone marrow

Creamed spinach with shirred eggs

Blue cheese gnocchi gratin

Tomato salad

Watercress salad

Roast corn grits with bone marrow & truffle

Green beans

Creamed corn

Pennybun & bone marrow sauce

Marchand de vin butter

Caviar butter

Creamed spinach on toast

Fried beets

Exploding onions

Mashed potato with bone marrow & onion gravy

Mashed potato with extra virgin olive oil

Potato, Parmesan & anchovy gratin

Macaroni cheese

Ash-baked sweet potatoes with caramelized onion

Truffled Tunworth

Semi-cured foie gras garnish

Oyster sauce

Breeds

My perfect steak

There is no such thing as a perfect steak, of course – nature doesn’t work that way, and the flavour of steak is subjective. However, these are my preferred cooking methods. My perfect steak has a sweet, meaty smell and taste, has a flavour that keeps on going in the mouth, and is moreish and beefy. It has been hung for around five weeks (excessively hung meat can mask inferior meat). When raw, it is not wet or sticky, nor is it soft or mushy. It is a brighter red colour than the well-marbled, intensively grain-fed steak, which is often graded by the amount of white and creamy marbling. In my perfect steak, if the marbling is visible at all, it is a pale yellow intramuscular fat that has been laid down slowly – more often, however, it is invisible to the naked eye.

The science behind cooking a perfect steak

Maillard is the chemical reaction that occurs when meat is browned, and it is one of the main reasons that grilled and roasted meat tastes so delicious. Maillard begins at 140–170°C (284–338°F). Knowing the correct temperature that a grill or pan needs to reach for Maillard to happen, recognizing the right time to season the meat and put it on the grill, and understanding how sugars and amino acids in meat combine at high heat to produce reactions and flavour compounds, can only help us become better cooks.

Different cuts of meat have varying degrees of tenderness, which can largely be attributed to the collagen in each muscle. Collagen is made of naturally occurring proteins and is the main component of connective tissue in muscle. The strength of the collagen varies in different cuts of meat and is also dependent on the age, breed and sex of the animal. Muscles that do very little work have weak collagen. Prime cuts generally have less connective tissue and collagen and are consequently more tender. Less expensive cuts usually have more connective tissue and collagen and so tend to be tougher. Understanding collagen is an important part of understanding cooking. In order to turn a tougher, collagen-rich cut into something delicious, juicy and tender, the muscle must be cooked with a lower, even heat so that the collagen molecules unravel, break down and dissolve into soft gelatine that bastes and moistens the meat.

Preparation Allow the steaks to sit for 30 minutes in order to come up to room temperature; this is known as tempering. Then dry the steaks off, because wet steak will struggle to form a decent crust and can pick up some unpleasant boiled-meat flavours – although once the steaks have been tempered at room temperature, they are already slightly drier than they would be straight from the refrigerator.

Seasoning I like pure Maldon sea salt flakes to season steaks; I never use table salt. This is because, as explained here, table salt is saltier and contains anti-caking agents which are not suited to steak.

I season aggressively, throwing handfuls of salt at the steak, shaking it over the tray before cooking it. During this process, much of the salt falls off, and what’s left is the correct amount of seasoning, in theory.

As with everything, there are variables to watch out for: thicker steaks, such as chateaubriands and bone-in ribs, require more seasoning than thinner steaks because of their lower ratio of surface area to meat.

Not all steak is hung for the same amount of time, and it’s important to note that steaks of different ages take seasoning differently. If you think about it, it’s obvious that a younger, wetter steak will absorb more seasoning than an older, drier one.

The amount of salt required also varies according to cooking method. On a grill with bars, much of the salt falls off the steak and onto the charcoal; when cooking in butter, some of the salt dissipates into the butter; and when cooking in a pan with minimal fat, almost all of the salt remains on the steak.

A truly great steak cook understands all these variables and adjusts the seasoning marginally according to the thickness, age, moisture content and cooking method of each steak.

Some say you shouldn’t season the steak until after you’ve cooked it – they’re wrong.

When is it cooked? Some say to prod different parts of your hand or face and compare with the texture of the steak to tell when it is cooked, but this is not a reliable method. There is no particular test that will tell you when a steak is perfectly cooked to your liking, and only with practice and experience you will get used to the “feel” ofthe correct cooking temperature.

It is also worth bearing in mind that cooking temperatures are subjective and perceptions vary from country to country. My cooking temperatures are perhaps a touch more cooked than those of, for instance, a Frenchman or Spaniard, and this is deliberate. Most of the great steak cuts contain fat and fat needs to be at a certain temperature to be digestible, and do its job of lubrication and flavour transfer. It’s for this reason I don’t cook steaks rare, except under duress. These are the temperatures I work to, bearing in mind the internal temperature should be at the bottom end of each range at the end of cooking and towards the top end once rested.

Medium-rare: 55–60°C (130–140°F)

Medium: 60–65°C (140–150°F)

Medium-well done: 65–70°C (150–160°F)

Cooking over charcoal

Cooking on a live fire grill is a skill and craft all of its own, made easier by the performance and quality of the material you’re burning. Success in cooking over a flame, whether direct or indirect, is down to the ability to control temperature, and while it is possible to give you guidance as to how to do this, the technique can really only be learned through practice. Just keep lighting your grill and cooking on it, and you will begin to understand the hot spots and cool spots, how long it takes for the coals to burn down for the optimum grilling temperature, and how long a full load of charcoal lasts.

Light the grill early enough to allow it to die down before cooking the first piece of meat. Make sure the grill is hot, but not too hot: the charcoal should have burned down and be coated in white ash. It should not be so hot that you can’t stand close to it; if it’s too hot for you, then it’s probably too hot for the steak. The aim is to get a good char on the outside while keeping the meat juicy and tender inside, which is impossible with a thin piece of meat – ideally, the steak should be at least 4cm (1½ inches) thick. Take it out of the refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking, to bring it up to room temperature. At the last second, season the meat well, but don’t use any oil on it – if the grill is at the correct temperature, the meat won’t stick.

Direct cooking over charcoal or wood When cooking directly over charcoal, it impacts the meat with high surface temperatures. The heat is not deflected or absorbed by anything during the process and does not affect the meat solely through the convection currents, as it does with indirect cooking. With a little skill, direct live fire cooking is one of the most exciting methods of cooking.

Place the meat on the grill and leave it for a couple of minutes before turning. Then, carry on turning every couple of minutes until you’ve achieved some enticing Maillard caramelization. If the piece of meat is thick, you’ll need to turn it regularly to avoid burning. Move your meat if you see yellow flames from the barbecue – this means that fat has caught fire, which can make the meat taste too smoky. Don’t overcrowd the grill; make sure there’s plenty of space between each piece of meat.

It’s impossible to give exact cooking times, as it all depends on the thickness of the meat, the animal it comes from, the cut and the temperature of the grill. However, as an example, a 600g (21oz) bone-in sirloin takes around 4 minutes on each side over hot charcoal, plus a 10-minute rest at 57°C (135°F), in order to be medium-rare. The key thing to remember is to take the meat off before you think it is ready and then let it rest.

Indirect cooking or charcoal roasting Indirect live fire cooking is far from an exact science, but as long as you have a meat probe to hand, all should be well. Probes are invaluable tools, but the sense of touch is still important, which becomes apparent through experience. Using both alongside each other will allow you to train your fingertips without too many mistakes. There is no shame at all in using a meat probe, and it is the only way to produce consistent results, particularly if you are in the early part of your journey as a meat cook.

Controlling the temperature of your barbecue using the air vents will enable you to use techniques for taking larger prime cuts to medium-rare. This set-up also provides a safety net if you have a particularly fatty piece of meat and do not want to suffer flare-ups that could ruin something special. Being able to moderate the cooking using two different zones (direct and indirect heat) is particularly helpful in this respect – if the grill is getting a little out of control and larger cuts are at risk of burning before they are properly cooked, just move them to the indirect area, where they can rest until the grill calms down.

To achieve this set-up, you need to light your charcoal and wait until it is ready to use – make sure your coals and wood are really hot and white. Push the coals to the side and put on the lid, keeping the vents open a little to allow air to pass out. This is so that indirect convection currents flow through the barbecue in much the same way as for a convection oven, with the heat being diffused throughout the cooking chamber so that it flows evenly around the meat. The cooking is much more even than over direct heat.

You are now ready to cook indirectly. When the barbecue is used this way, as a charcoal roaster, it means you can cook almost anything that you can in a conventional oven. On the top of your barbecue, you’ll probably find a heat gauge, which is there precisely for when you want to use the barbecue for indirect cooking as an oven.

Combining direct and indirect cooking If a piece of meat is really thick, it can be started using the direct cooking method and finished using the indirect cooking method. Larger cuts of meat such as bone-in ribs and chateaubriands benefit greatly from using indirect heat to finish the cooking.

Clinching or dirty cooking At the other end of the spectrum is clinching, or dirty cooking, of steak, direct on the wood or charcoal. The technique is awesome in its simplicity: instead of using a grill, meat is cooked directly in or on the hot charcoal or wood. The most important thing is to use good-quality charcoal and wood and to show no fear. While burning is an understandable concern, it is unfounded, as it’s actually harder to burn a steak this way than it is if you’re new to grilling. When meat gets close to the hot coals, it will burn, but put it right against them, up close and personal, and the coals don’t get enough oxygen to create fire, so you’re cooking purely on the heat of the charcoal. This process super-heats the fat and allows steam to penetrate the meat more quickly than with direct or indirect cooking.

Cooking in butter

Take the steak out of the refrigerator 30 minutes before you’re planning to cook, to allow it to come to room temperature. Heat a heavy-based griddle pan or frying pan over a medium-high heat, then season the steak lightly, bearing in mind that less falls off in a pan than on a grill. Put it flat-side-down in the pan and cook for 90 seconds on each side, pressing down with a spatula, until both sides are well browned. Add the butter, and some garlic and thyme if you are using them. The rapidly melting butter, flavoured with crushed garlic, is then used to baste the steak as it cooks. This gives it a gorgeous richness; the browning butter helps to impart some lovely, savoury flavour to the crust along with the garlic.

In theory, you remove the steak from the pan and leave it somewhere warm to rest for 10–15 minutes, then serve. However, if the steak is thick enough, I’ve been known to turn the heat off early and allow the steak to rest in its pool of butter in the pan instead.

Frequent flipping is the key to moist steak, as neither side has the time to absorb – or to release – large amounts of heat. The meat cooks faster and its outer layers end up less overdone.

Butter-fried steak with golden garlic

This is old-school French cookery at its best. If you can find grass-fed butter, then use it – evidence is mounting that grass-fed butter is healthier than intensively farmed butter, and it’s certainly better for you than margarine or oil.

2 x 500g (1lb 2oz) bone-in steaks such as T-bone or prime rib, cut 3–4mm (about ⅛ inch) thick

50g (1¾oz) beef dripping

125g (4½oz) unsalted butter

4 thyme sprigs

2 garlic bulbs, cloves peeled

1 rosemary sprig

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Season the steaks all over with salt and pepper.

Heat the dripping in a large cast-iron skillet or frying pan. When it has melted and is foaming, add the steaks and cook over a high heat until crusty on the bottom, about 3–4 minutes. Turn the steaks and add half the butter, the thyme, garlic cloves and rosemary to the skillet.

Cook over a high heat, basting the steaks with the foaming butter, garlic and herbs, turning once more and adding the remaining butter. Cook until the steaks are medium-rare, 3–4 minutes longer. Transfer the steaks to a chopping board or plate and allow to rest for at least 10 minutes, preferably longer.

Remove the herbs and keep frying the garlic until golden and soft. Cut the steaks off the bone, then slice the meat across the grain and serve with the meat resting juices poured over and the fried garlic cloves.

Classic steak garnishes

Place a pile each of Grilled Portobello Mushrooms, Slow-roasted Tomatoes and Onion Rings on the plate with your steak, finishing with watercress.

Grilled Portobello mushrooms

A great steakhouse menu virtually writes itself, and a mushroom side is a must. I’ve been cooking my mushrooms with Worcestershire sauce for years, but have recently taken to the sweetness of kecap manis instead. Try it.

Serves 4–6

12 large Portobello mushrooms

4 garlic cloves, crushed

1 banana shallot, finely chopped

a few thyme leaves

a few tarragon or/and parsley leaves, chopped

1 tablespoon kecap manis (sweet soy sauce)

1 tablespoon Madeira Gravy

1 teaspoon lemon juice

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Grill the mushrooms until just cooked, over charcoalif available or in a nonstick pan if not. Cut each one into quarters.

Toss the mushrooms with the remaining ingredients and correct the seasoning.

Allow to sit for a few minutes, then serve.

Slow-roasted tomatoes

These are more slow-dried than roasted, and are intense and tangy.

Serves 4–6

1kg (2lb 4oz) ripe plum tomatoes

a few thyme sprigs, leaves picked

100ml (3½fl oz) extra virgin olive oil

1–2 garlic cloves, sliced, to taste

Maldon sea salt flakes

Preheat the oven to 110°C (225°F), Gas Mark ¼.

Halve the tomatoes and place on a baking tray, cut side up. Sprinkle with salt, thyme, a little oil and garlic slices.

Place in the preheated oven and leave overnight.

Transfer to sterilized jars, cover with olive oil, and keep until needed.

Onion rings

I’ve tried dozens of versions of onion rings and these are by far my favourite. Part battered, part breadcrumbed: the best of both worlds.

Serves 4–6

1 red onion

1 brown onion

100ml (3½fl oz) malt vinegar

vegetable oil, for deep-frying

plain flour seasoned with salt and pepper, for dusting

panko breadcrumbs

For the batter

330ml (11oz) lager

160g (5¾oz) plain flour

a pinch of cayenne pepper

a pinch of English mustard powder

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground white pepper

Peel the onions and cut them into rings 1cm (½ inch) in width. Place in a dish, pour over the vinegar and leave to marinate for 3 hours.

To make the batter, pour the lager into a large mixing bowl and gently whisk in the flour until you get a smooth, silky consistency (you may need more or less flour than specified). Add the cayenne, mustard and seasoning.

Heat the oil to 180°C (350°F) in a deep-fat fryer. Drop the onion rings into the seasoned flour, then into the batter, then into the seasoned breadcrumbs. Fry until golden brown, then remove with tongs and place on kitchen paper to drain. Season and serve.

Watercress

A bunch of fresh watercress is a must-have side for any steak.

Jerked steak & cauliflower

Most jerk recipes call for the meat to be marinated before cooking, but not this one – it makes for a fresher, zingier result that I really like. You can, of course, just grill the steak and cauliflower if the direct tocoals “dirty” cooking worries you.

1 tablespoon allspice berries

1 tablespoon cracked black peppercorns

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

1 tablespoon chopped thyme leaves

4 spring onions, chopped

3 Scotch Bonnet chillies, finely chopped

1 tablespoon dark brown sugar

1 teaspoon Maldon sea salt flakes

30ml (1fl oz) dark soy sauce

finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime

1 cauliflower

2 x 500g (1lb 2oz) rib-eye steaks

thyme sprigs and lime wedges, to garnish

Light your barbecue and allow it to burn down to a smoulder.

Blend all the ingredients together, except the cauliflower and steak, and set aside.

Cut the cauliflower into quarters through the stem, so that it doesn’t fall apart. Season the steak with a little salt and place directly on the coals with the cauliflower.

Cook the steak to medium, turning both the meat and the cauliflower all the time – the cauliflower is ready when the stems are soft but it still has a bite.

When the steak and cauliflower are cooked, coat them liberally in the sauce and allow to rest for 10 minutes. To serve, chop or slice the steak and serve with the cauliflower with lime wedges and thyme sprigs scattered over.

Philly cheese steak

The Philly cheese steak began life at a hot dog stand near south Philadelphia’s Italian market, and became so popular that it graduated to a restaurant which still operates today – Pat’s King of Steaks Since 1930.

extra virgin olive oil

600g (1lb 5oz) rib-eye steak

50g (1¾oz) onions, sliced

50g (1¾oz) green peppers, sliced

50g (1¾oz) mushrooms, sliced

1 garlic clove, crushed and chopped

200g (7oz) American-style provolone cheese, sliced

4 hot dog rolls or “hoagies”

100ml (3½fl oz) ready-made marinara sauce (or any tomato, onion and garlic pasta sauce)

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

On a lightly olive-oiled griddle or plancha over a medium heat, grill the steaks until coloured all over but still rare, then remove and set aside to rest. Add the onions, peppers and mushrooms and cook, stirring, for a few minutes, until caramelized. Add the garlic, salt and pepper and cook for another 30 seconds, then push the mixture to one side of the griddle.

Slice the steak thinly and add to the hot part of the griddle, then break into smaller pieces with the end of a flat spatula or slice.

When cooked to your preference, mix the vegetables and meat and divide into 4 portions. Top the portions with the cheese and let it melt.

Cut the rolls open and hollow out some of the soft white bread part from inside. Place the top side of each roll face down on top of a portion of meat and cheese.

When the cheese has melted, flip the piles over, season with pepper, add the marinara sauce, then add the base of the rolls. Serve immediately.

Steak shawarma

While travelling through the Middle East researching shawarma for Condé Nast, I found beef was used almost everywhere – probably, I think, because the more traditional mutton was more expensive than imported beef. It may not be traditional, but steak shawarma is just as tasty.

100ml (3½fl oz) natural yogurt

50ml (2fl oz) cider vinegar

50ml (2fl oz) lemon juice

2 garlic cloves, crushed

3–4 tablespoons Middle Eastern Rub

1kg (2lb 4oz) boneless rib of beef, cut into 1–2cm (½–¾ inch) thick slices

For the sauce

200ml (7fl oz) tahini

2 garlic cloves, crushed

50ml (2fl oz) lemon juice

50ml (2fl oz) natural yogurt

You will also need

4 metal skewers

Fillings

4 lavash or flatbreads

Bread & Butter Pickles

Beef Dripping Fries

grilled tomatoes

Middle Eastern Rub

Mix the yogurt, vinegar, lemon juice, garlic and spice rub together and pour over the sliced beef. Mix well, cover and refrigerate for a few hours.

Remove the meat from the fridge and mix again. Layer the beef on to 4 large metal kebab skewers and wrap tightly in several layers of clingfilm to make a firm roll. Refrigerate overnight.

Combine the sauce ingredients, mix well, cover and set aside.

Remove the steak shawarma from the fridge, take off the clingfilm and cook over charcoal, taking care to keep it turning so that it cooks evenly.

As the steak is cooked, slice layers off from the outside in thin pieces.

Lay one lavash or flatbread on greaseproof paper, and add enough beef to cover a quarter of the surface. Top with some Bread & Butter Pickles, a few Beef Dripping Fries and some grilled tomatoes. Drizzle with the tahini sauce, season with extra steak rub, then tightly roll into a shawarma inside the paper. Repeat with the remaining breads, beef and fillings.

Middle Eastern rub

This rub uses a classic combination of redolent spices commonly used throughout the Middle East to season meat. As always, it’s only as good as the ingredients, and whole spices trump ground spices every time.

Makes 500g (1lb 2oz)

25g (1oz) hot smoked paprika

25g (1oz) black peppercorns

25g (1oz) cumin seeds

20g (¾oz) coriander seeds

20g (¾oz) whole nutmeg

20g (¾oz) cinnamon sticks

10g (¼oz) cloves

10g (¼oz) cardamom pods

100g (3½oz) palm sugar

250g (9oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

Toast the spices in a hot pan, then blitz with the palm sugar to a rough powder. Combine thoroughly with the salt and keep in a sealed container.

Bread & butter pickles

Versions of these pickles are found all over the world – they provide much-needed acidity to cut through the rich meat.

Makes 1 litre (1¾ pints) or serves 20

5 large cucumbers

2 onions

85g (3oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

600ml (1 pint) cider vinegar

400g (14oz) soft brown sugar

2g (1/16oz or about ⅓ teaspoon) ground turmeric

10 whole cloves

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

Wash the cucumbers and onions and slice into 4mm (about ⅛ inch) thick pieces. Layer them in a non-reactive container, with the salt distributed in between the layers. Cover with clingfilm and put a heavy weight on top to help extract the water from the vegetables. Leave for at least 4 hours, until limp but crunchy.

When ready, pour away the liquid and rinse the cucumbers and onions under cold running water, tossing constantly for 5 minutes, until no longer salty. Leave to dry.

Put the vinegar, sugar and spices into a saucepan and stir over a medium heat until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil, then add the cucumber and onions to the pan. Cook for 2 minutes, until the cucumber has browned through but not cooked. This is important, as overcooked cucumbers will soften. Remove from the heat and leave to cool.

Transfer the pickles to sterilized jars and store in the refrigerator for up to 2–3 weeks to mature.

Beef dripping fries

Traditionally the Great British fish and chips were cooked in beef dripping, a practice that has sadly fallen by the wayside for reasons beyond my ken. If you are old enough to remember proper fish and chips, these beauties will be a trip down Memory Lane. It’s not traditional, but a grating of Parmesan on top after frying makes things interesting.

Serves 4

1kg (2lb 4oz) Maris Piper potatoes (or other suitable chipping potatoes)

beef dripping, for deep-frying

malt vinegar

Maldon sea salt flakes

Peel and wash the potatoes and put through a French fry potato cutter, or cut into 1cm (½ inch) chips using a knife.

Put them into a pan, cover with cold water, salt and bring to the boil. Cook for 8 minutes, then drain and allow to steam-dry. Set aside until cool.

Heat the beef dripping in your fryer to 140°C (285°F). Put the sliced potatoes into the dripping and fry for 4–5 minutes, ensuring they are completely submerged all the time. Remove the fries from the dripping and allow to drain completely on kitchen paper, then chill until completely cooled.

When needed, reheat the dripping to 190°C (375°F). Return the chips to the fryer and fry for 4–5 minutes, or until golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper, then place in a bowl, season with sea salt flakes and a spray of malt vinegar, and serve.

Steak fajitas

Fajitas are a modern Tex-Mex creation. The first culinary evidence of them – the cut of meat, the cooking style (directly on a campfire or on a grill), and the Spanish nickname – goes back as far as the 1930s, to the ranchlands of south and west Texas. During cattle round-ups, cows were butchered regularly to feed the hands. Hearty border dishes like barbacoa de cabeza (head barbecue), menudo (tripe stew), and fajitas or arracheras (grilled skirt steak) have their roots in this practice.

4 limes

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 garlic cloves, crushed

4 teaspoons ground cumin

2 teaspoons dried oregano

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1kg (2lb 4oz) skirt steak, cut in half

1 red pepper

1 green pepper

1 onion, peeled and cut in half

8 large flour tortillas

400g (14oz) can black beans, drained and mashed

pico de gallo or Salsa Mexicana

Guacamole

150ml (¼ pint) soured cream

Maldon sea salt flakes

small bunch (about 30g/1oz) of coriander, finely chopped, to garnish

Squeeze the juice from the limes and mix with the olive oil, garlic, cumin, oregano, black pepper and Maldon salt. Lay the steaks in a shallow dish or tray and pour over the marinade. Turn to coat the steaks all over in the mix, then cover, chill and allow to stand for a few hours.

Light your barbecue and allow the coals to burn down to ash white. Wipe any excess marinade from the steaks and cook them for 5 minutes on each side. Remove from the grill and leave to rest for 10 minutes. While the meat is resting, grill the whole peppers and the halved onion, turning regularly. When cooked and the pepper skins are blackened, remove from the grill and skin the peppers. Chop or slice the peppers and onion.

To assemble the fajitas, warm the flour tortillas on the barbecue and spread with mashed black beans. Top with thick slices of steak, chopped roast peppers and onions, pico de gallo or Salsa Mexicana, Guacamole, some soured cream and garnish with coriander.

Steak sandwich

A steak sandwich should be a very simple affair, but the permutations are legion and are not always successful. This is my favourite after years of making them. Don’t over-grill the sourdough – it should be just warmed through, singed and still chewy.

175g (6oz) rib-eye steak

2 slices of fresh sourdough

30g (1oz) Hollandaise: Anchovy, Horseradish or Stilton variations all work well (see The magic of hollandaise)

5g (⅛oz) fresh horseradish

a handful of watercress

10g (¼oz) red onion, peeled and shaved very, very thin

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Season and chargrill the rib-eye steak, then remove from the heat and leave to rest for 5 minutes.

Lightly grill the sourdough slices on the grill – they should be barely toasted.

Slice the steak into 1cm (½ inch) strips.

Spread your Hollandaise of choice on one piece of grilled sourdough toast. Pile the sliced rib eye over the Hollandaise, and grate fresh horseradish on top. Pile watercress on top of the steak, then top with shaved red onion and place the other slice of toast on top. Serve warm.

The magic of hollandaise

Hollandaise is one of the five sauces in the “mother sauce” repertoire of French cookery. It is so named because it was believed to have mimicked a Dutch sauce for the King of Holland’s state visit to France. Made with egg yolks and butter, it is a phenomenally versatile sauce that carries strong flavours well. From this basic preparation, much deliciousness can be derived.

Base sauce

250g (9oz) unsalted butter

3 large free-range egg yolks

1 tablespoon water

1 tablespoon lemon juice, plus extra to taste

dash of Tabasco

Warm the butter gently until almost melted.

Whisk the yolks, water and lemon juice in a medium–small saucepan for a few moments, until thick, pale and mousse-like.

Set the pan over a medium-low heat and continue to whisk at a reasonable speed, reaching all over the bottom and edges of the pan, where the eggs tend to overcook.

To moderate the heat, frequently move the pan off the burner for a few seconds, and then back on. (If, by chance, the eggs seem to be cooking too fast, set the pan in a bowl of cold water to cool the bottom, then continue.)

As they cook, the eggs will become frothy and increase in volume, and then thicken. When you can see the pan bottom through the streaks of the whisk and the eggs are thick and smooth, remove from the heat.

Very slowly and gradually add the warm butter, at little at a time, whisking constantly to incorporate each addition. As the emulsion forms, you may add the butter in slightly larger amounts, always whisking until it has been fully absorbed. Continue adding butter until the sauce has thickened to the consistency you want and all of the butter has been incorporated.

Add a dash of Tabasco and a dash more lemon juice to taste, whisking in well. Season as the individual variation calls for (see Variations that go well with steak).

Variations that go well with steak

Béarnaise Finely slice 3 shallots and place in a pan with 100ml (3½fl oz) of white wine vinegar, 100ml (3½fl oz) of water, ½ teaspoon of crushed black peppercorns and the stalks from 2 large tarragon sprigs and a large chervil sprig, reserving the leaves to finish the sauce. Reduce this mixture by half, then pour into a suitable container (a squeezy bottle or glass jar) and leave to infuse overnight in the refrigerator.

Finish the Hollandaise recipe with 1 tablespoon of the strained reduction, salt and pepper, 1 teaspoon of chopped chervil and 1 teaspoon of chopped tarragon.

Beurre noisette Heat the butter to a foam and allow it to subside, then repeat and use to make the sauce as usual.

Choron sauce Blanch, peel and deseed 3 ripe plum tomatoes and chop the flesh well. Warm through and fold into the Hollandaise sauce, adjusting the seasoning with salt and pepper.

Anchovy hollandaise In a mortar and pestle grind 50g (1¾oz) of good anchovy fillets in oil, ½ a small garlic clove, ½ a small deseeded red chilli, a few thyme leaves, a couple of basil leaves, 1 teaspoon of Dijon mustard, 1 teaspoon of red wine vinegar and a few grinds of black pepper. When smooth, fold into the Hollandaise and serve.

Bone marrow hollandaise Replace half the butter with diced bone marrow and season with salt and pepper and a teaspoon of the Béarnaise reduction above.

Garlic hollandaise Wrap 1 garlic bulb in foil and bake in a low oven for 1 hour. Cut the top off the foil parcel and squeeze all the baked garlic purée out into a dish. Fold this garlic purée into the Hollandaise sauce, season to taste with salt, then serve.

Horseradish hollandaise Finish the Hollandaise with plenty of fresh grated horseradish folded in, and season to taste with salt.

Kimchi hollandaise Blend or chop 100g (3½oz) of Kimchi to a paste and fold into the Hollandaise.

Mustard hollandaise Finish the Hollandaise with 1 tablespoon of Dijon and 1 tablespoon of wholegrain mustard, then season to taste with salt.

Orange hollandaise Make the Hollandaise using blood orange juice instead of lemon juice, finish with finely grated blood orange zest and season to taste with salt.

Sherry hollandaise Replace the water and lemon juice with 2 tablespoons of very good sherry (I use Oloroso or Amontillado – the better the sherry, the better the sauce) then season to taste with salt.

Stilton hollandaise Crumble 125g (4½oz) of Stilton into chunks and allow to warm, then gently fold into the sauce, keeping the small chunks intact.

Steak tacos

While the origin of the taco is a mystery, its history dates back to the eighteenth century, with an early written reference calling them tacos de minero, or “miner’s tacos”. It’s believed that this was because they were a common food in the Mexican silver mines. During the 19th century, tacos arrived in America with the influx of Mexican immigrants. A group of female street vendors known as the Chili Queens sold tacos on the streets of Los Angeles, and when tourists began to swarm to the city, they would seek them out. This became a core part of the LA experience, and as the next generation of these original Mexican immigrants climbed the social ladder, the taco gained in popularity. Slowly but surely the taco became part of wider American culture.

600g (1lb 5oz) rib-eye steak

1 tablespoon Basic Beef Rub

¼ white cabbage

juice of 1 lime

12 mini soft flour tortillas

2 avocados, chopped

4–5 tablespoons Chipotle Ketchup

24 coriander sprigs

Season the steaks liberally with the steak rub and chargrill to medium, the best temperature for this rib-eye. Remove from the heat and allow to rest for at least 10 minutes.

Very finely shred the white cabbage and toss with the lime juice.

Warm the flour tortillas, wrapped in foil, over a griddle or in a medium oven.

Slice the steak, then place a little cabbage, some avocado, a thick slice of steak and 1 teaspoon of Chipotle Ketchup on each tortilla and garnish each one with 2 sprigs of coriander. Serve 3 tortillas per portion.

Basic beef rub

Rubs are an essential part of a barbecue. They can be little more than salt and pepper, sometimes called a “dalmatian rub” and used for the simple seasoning of a joint of beef, or they can be big sugary rubs that create the thick bark on competition-level briskets (see Smoked brisket for my simple version). Sugar and salt play a fundamental part in both the development of bark when smoking and in the retention of moisture in the meat.

Makes 450g (1lb)

250g (9oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

100g (3½oz) maple sugar

25g (1oz) English mustard powder

25g (1oz) hot smoked paprika

25g (1oz) freshly ground black pepper

25g (1oz) fennel pollen (or toasted fennel seeds if unavailable)

Simply blend all the ingredients together and use as directed in your chosen recipe.

Chipotle ketchup

This is a very simple sauce that’s served me well over the years. In winter I use canned tomatoes rather than fresh.

Makes 600ml (1 pint)

200g (7oz) ripe tomatoes, chopped

200g (7oz) onions, peeled and chopped

200g (7oz) apples, peeled, cored and chopped

200g (7oz) smoked chipotle peppers

200ml (7fl oz) cider vinegar

4 teaspoons Maldon sea salt flakes

20g (¾oz) hot smoked paprika

2 tablespoons clear honey

Place all the ingredients except the honey in a stainless steel pan and bring to a gentle simmer. Continue to simmer for 2 hours, then add the honey and return to a simmer before passing through a vegetable mouli or sieve.

Decant into sterilized bottles or jars and seal. When cool, refrigerate for a few days before using. It will keep for a few weeks in the fridge.

Steak salad

Deckle is the juiciest, tastiest bit of the rib-eye, also known as the Latissimus dorsi in bovine myology. Served with my interpretation of the classic rocket and Parmesan salad, it makes a rather lovely light lunch. This is the steak salad to end all steak salads, restraint and simplicity being – as usual – the thing.

For the dressing

30g (1oz) Parmesan cheese, finely grated, plus extra to serve

1½ tablespoons white balsamic vinegar

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

For the salad

200g (7oz) deckle steak (see recipe introduction)

100g (3½oz) wild rocket leaves

First make the dressing. Blend the Parmesan, vinegar, lemon juice, mustard, salt and pepper with a mortar and pestle until smooth. With the machine running, gradually add the oil and blend until emulsified and well incorporated.

Season the deckle, then grill to medium-rare and set aside to rest for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, pick and wash the wild rocket.

Slice the deckle and arrange neatly on plates. Toss the rocket leaves in the dressing and arrange next to the grilled deckle.

Grate extra Parmesan over the top and eat.

Side dishes for steak

Grilled lobster with garlic butter

I have included this because I like to serve it alongside grilled steak, as an homage to the classic surf ’n’ turf. Served in steakhouses since the 1960s, surf ’n’ turf has had a chequered history, falling in and out of favour. Chef Alain Chapel served lobster with pigeon, and temples of gastronomy such as London’s Le Gavroche (where this recipe is from) have followed suit. I see nothing wrong with it, and indeed a cut such as fillet positively needs a little help.

Serves 4 as a side dish

2 live native lobsters

150g (5½oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

100g (3½oz) Garlic Butter

Kill your lobsters by piercing the head behind the cross mark with a knife.

Bring 5 litres (about 9 pints) of water to the boil in a large pan with the sea salt flakes – this is roughly the salinity of seawater. Plunge your lobster into the boiling salted water and cook for 8 minutes, then remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool for 8 minutes with the lobsters still in the water.

Remove the claws, crack with a hammer and extract the meat, keeping the pieces whole. Cut the body of each lobster in half lengthways and remove the meat, again in large chunks. Remove the tail meat. Remove the intestinal tract and the grit sac and discard. Spread the shells generously with the garlic butter, then season the lobster meat and replace neatly in the shell halves. Spread over more garlic butter.

Grill over medium hot charcoal until the butter is bubbling. Serve with grilled steak, of course.

Lobster fideuá

In the spirit of surf ’n’ turf, this is a more refined lobster pasta dish, based on a seafood dish originally from the coast of Valencia. It is similar to paella, but with noodles instead of rice.

Serves 4

For the stock

(Makes 1 litre/1¾ pints)

500g (1lb 2oz) lobster shells

½ carrot, chopped

½ fennel bulb, chopped

½ onion, peeled and chopped

4 garlic cloves, chopped

1 celery stick, chopped

olive oil, for fying

1 litre (1¾ pints) fish stock

faggot of herbs (bay leaf, fennel and thyme)

½ lemon, sliced

For the fideuá

250g (9oz) fideuá noodles

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 large garlic cloves

2 good-sized ripe tomatoes, halved, deseeded and grated (discarding the skin)

1½ teaspoons sweet paprika (pimentón dulce)

0.4g packet (large pinch) saffron threads, crumbled

1 whole lobster, blanched and shelled (use the shells to make the stock)

Maldon sea salt flakes

aïoli (garlic mayonnaise), to serve

Roast the lobster shells in the oven at 220°C (425°F), Gas Mark 7 until just caramelized.

Meanwhile, fry the stock vegetables in a little olive oil until golden brown.

When the lobster shells are roasted, pound them using a mortar and pestle (or bash them with a rolling pin), then place them in a large saucepan with the fish stock and cooked vegetables. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 30 minutes.

Remove from the heat and add the faggot of herbs and the sliced lemon. Leave to infuse for 10 minutes, then pass through a fine sieve, taking care to extract all the juice from the solids. Discard the solids and pour the stock into a saucepan over a very low heat and hold just below simmering, ready for adding to the fideuá.

In a large frying pan, toast the fideuá noodles until they turn a light golden brown colour – about 10 minutes – turning them during cooking so that they are toasted on all sides. Remove from the pan and set aside.

Heat the olive oil in the frying pan over a medium-low heat, then add the garlic cloves and cook slowly to give some flavour to the oil. When the garlic cloves are golden brown, remove from the oil, crush and return them to the pan.

Add the fideuá and stir well to coat, then add the warmed stock. Add the grated tomatoes and cook for 3–4 minutes until thickened. Stir in the paprika and crumbled saffron and cook for 1 minute. Bring to a gentle rolling boil and cook for 5 minutes (try the stock now to check if the amount of salt is right and, if not, amend accordingly).

Add the lobster meat and cook for a further 4 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and leave to stand for 3 minutes. Serve with aïoli as a side dish to the steak.

Wild mushroom orzotto

A splendid side dish for braised beef dishes, this orzotto will soak up the gravy and become all the more flavoursome for it.

Serves 4

25g (1oz) dried porcini mushrooms

1 banana shallot, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

60g (2¼oz) unsalted butter

300g (10½oz) wild mushrooms, cleaned and chopped

200g (7oz) pearl barley

750ml (1¼ pints) Basic Beef Broth

50ml (2fl oz) extra virgin olive oil

100ml (3½fl oz) good Italian red wine, such as Chianti

50g (1¾oz) Parmesan cheese, finely grated

1 tablespoon chopped flat leaf parsley leaves

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Soak the dried porcini in boiling water for 20 minutes.

In a large frying pan gently cook the chopped shallot and garlic in 40g (1½oz) of butter until soft but not coloured. Drain the porcini, reserving the soaking liquid, then roughly chop and add to the pan with the chopped wild mushrooms. Season and continue to cook until tender.

Put the pearl barley in a sieve and wash thoroughly in cold running water. Cook in a pan of salted boiling water for 15 minutes, until just tender. Drain the barley and cool slightly.

In a medium saucepan, bring the beef broth to a boil, reduce the heat to low and keep warm.

In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil, add the mushroom mixture and barley and stir to coat. Add the red wine, followed by the broth a ladle at a time, and cook over a moderately low heat, stirring constantly, until nearly absorbed. Keep stirring until the barley is al dente and suspended in a creamy sauce, about 25 minutes. Stir in the grated Parmesan, the remaining butter and the parsley, season with salt and pepper and serve.

Wild mushroom fricassee

This is my go-to mushroom fricassee from Harvey’s, chef Marco Pierre White’s first restaurant, which existed years ago in Wandsworth Common, London. Nowadays, I might leave out the tomatoes in the depths of winter.

Serves 4

600g (1lb 5oz) small wild mushrooms

50ml (2fl oz) light olive oil

50g (1¾oz) unsalted butter

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots

1 teaspoon crushed garlic

1 teaspoon thyme leaves

splash of red wine vinegar

5 tomatoes, peeled, deseeded and finely chopped

1 tablespoon chopped chives

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Pick over and clean the mushrooms carefully. Ideally brush them to remove any dirt, but a quick rinse won’t harm them too much if they are dried immediately. If large, slice them – if small leave them whole.

Heat the oil in a large non-stick pan and fry the mushrooms in batches, setting them aside on a plate.

Return the pan to the heat and add the butter, shallots, garlic, thyme leaves and finally the fried mushrooms. Toss to mix and continue frying until the garlic is cooked out and turns translucent.

Season to taste with salt, pepper and a splash of vinegar, then toss in the tomatoes and chives and serve.

Braised shallots & garlic with bone marrow

I wrote this recipe after a late-night conversation with the inimitable chef Marco Pierre White in Margaret River, Australia. We’d just finished cooking a dinner in a winery there and he was regaling me with a list of his favourite steak garnishes. This is my interpretation of one he described having eaten in France. It’s really just a very posh onion gravy.

Serves 4

500g (1lb 2oz) whole button shallots

250g (9oz) garlic cloves

1 tablespoon good beef dripping

1 small faggot of herbs (thyme, rosemary and bay leaf)

300ml (½ pint) Madeira Gravy

200g (7oz) bone marrow, cut into medallions

chopped flat leaf parsley leaves

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Peel the shallots, down to taking off one white layer of skin, and peel the garlic cloves.

Heat the dripping in a pan and fry the shallots and garlic in batches until golden brown.

Place the shallots in a small lidded casserole with the faggot of herbs and the Madeira gravy, and place in the oven for 1 hour, or until the shallots are easily pierced with a knife. Add the garlic and return to the oven for 20 minutes, then add the bone marrow medallions and chopped parsley. Remove the faggot of herbs and allow to heat through.

Season and serve with grilled steak, or use in Collard Greens & Gravy (where you can also see a photo of this dish).

Creamed spinach with shirred eggs

I’ve been making this for some years now, having first tasted its inspiration at Henry Harris’s brilliant restaurant Racine. His version contained foie gras rather than anchovy and egg, which is certainly no bad thing.

Serves 4

500ml (18fl oz) double cream

5 anchovies, chopped

1 large rosemary sprig

4 garlic cloves, crushed

¼ nutmeg, grated

1kg (2lb 4oz) spinach

a little unsalted butter

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

4 free-range eggs

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Place the cream, anchovies, rosemary, garlic, nutmeg, salt and pepper in a pan and bring to a gentle simmer, then remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 20 minutes.

Remove the stalks from the spinach, then wash thoroughly and blanch in boiling salted water. Drain, then squeeze the spinach dry and roughly chop into 5mm (¼ inch) pieces.

Pass the hot cream through a sieve over the chopped spinach and reheat, then correct the seasoning, adding the cayenne pepper.

Lightly butter a serving dish and pour in the hot creamed spinach. Make 4 wells in the spinach and crack the eggs into the wells. Bake in a preheated oven at 170°C (340°F), Gas Mark 3½ for 4 minutes, until the eggs are just set, and serve immediately.

Blue cheese gnocchi gratin

These delicious dumplings would normally be eaten as a first course in Italy, but they also make a great accompaniment to steak.

Serves 4–6

400g (14oz) russet potatoes, peeled

250ml (9fl oz) double cream

1 rosemary sprig

½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 large free-range egg, lightly beaten

150g (5½oz) Parmesan cheese, finely grated

120g (4¼oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting

50g (1¾oz) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus extra for greasing

10g (¼oz) dried breadcrumbs

120g (4¼oz) Gorgonzola Dolce

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Place the potatoes in a large pot, cover with water and add a pinch of salt. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes or until tender. Drain, set aside and allow to steam-dry.

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas Mark 4.

Bring the cream, rosemary, and half the nutmeg to the boil in a small saucepan, then remove from the heat and allow to sit until needed.

Pass the potatoes through a potato ricer into a large bowl. Add the egg, half the Parmesan, the flour and the remaining nutmeg and season well with salt, then, using your hands, gently mix to a dough. Transfer to a floured surface and cut into quarters. Roll each quarter into a thick rope about 2cm (¾ inch) in diameter, then cut into 3cm (1¼ inch) pieces.

Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Lightly butter a baking dish. Working in batches, cook the gnocchi for 2–3 minutes or until they float to the surface. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the gnocchi to the baking dish.

Mix the remaining Parmesan, the butter and the breadcrumbs together in a small bowl.

Strain the cream mixture over the gnocchi. Break off small pieces of Gorgonzola and scatter them over the top, then sprinkle over the breadcrumb mixture and bake in the preheated oven until bubbling and golden brown, 15–20 minutes.

Tomato salad

Heritage or heirloom tomatoes are old varieties grown for historical interest as well as for their flavours, which are widely perceived to be better than that of modern cultivars. They often have a shorter shelf life, but can be more disease-resistant than commercial tomatoes. Many heirloom tomatoes lack a genetic mutation that gives modern tomatoes an appealing uniform red colour. Varieties bearing this mutation, which have been favoured by the industry since the 1940s, have a decreased ability to make sugar within the fruit. If you are used to eating mass-market modern varieties from a supermarket, a heritage tomato can be a revelation.

Serves 4

800g (1lb 12oz) mixed heritage tomatoes, some cut into chunks and some into slices

1 banana shallot, finely sliced into rings

10g (¼oz) flat leaf parsley leaves

juice of 1 lemon

100g (3½oz) Creamed Horseradish

a large glug (I leave this to your personal taste) of extra virgin olive oil

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Make sure your tomatoes are at room temperature – if possible they should never have seen the inside of a fridge.

In a bowl toss together the tomatoes, shallot rings and parsley leaves, and season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice.

Spread the Creamed Horseradish in a serving dish and top with the tomato salad, making sure to leave some of the cream visible underneath.

Finish with a glug of extra virgin olive oil over the top and serve.

Watercress salad

Not all watercress is created equal. It takes time to develop its distinctive, deep peppery taste, so search out lush, dark green leaves with some body.

Serves 4

100g (3½oz) watercress

50g (1¾oz) cucumber slices, skin on

50g (1¾oz) gherkins, cut in julienne strips

10g (¼oz) lilliput (tiny) capers, washed

50ml (2fl oz) Mustard Dressing

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Wash the watercress thoroughly.

Toss the cucumber, gherkins, capers and watercress in a bowl with the dressing, then season to taste.

Roast corn grits with bone marrow & truffle

Usually eaten at breakfast, grits have their origin in Native American corn preparation. Traditionally, the hominy (dried corn) for grits was ground on a stone mill, then passed through screens, the finer sifted material used as grit meal, and the coarser as grits. Many American communities used these mills until the mid-20th century, farmers bringing their corn to be ground and the miller keeping a portion as his fee.

Serves 4

2 sweetcorn cobs

50g (1¾oz) unsalted butter

1 onion, peeled and finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

100g (3½oz) corn grits

500ml (18fl oz) hot Basic Beef Broth

250ml (9fl oz) double cream

50g (1¾oz) bone marrow, chopped

1 small black truffle or ½ bunch of spring onions

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Remove the husks from the corn and roast the cobs on a hot charcoal grill or griddle pan until slightly blackened. Slice the corn kernels from the cobs and roughly chop.

Melt the butter in a large skillet or saucepan, then add the chopped onion and sauté until slightly soft. Add the garlic and cook until both are softened. Stirring constantly, add the grits, followed by the hot beef broth. Continue to cook over a low heat, stirring almost constantly, until the grits are creamy.

When the grits are almost done, add the corn kernels and the cream. Simmer, stirring constantly, for about 5 minutes or longer, until thickened. Season with salt and pepper.

Fold in the bone marrow and serve with shaved black truffle over the top in winter, or sliced spring onions the rest of the year.

Green beans

A classic steakhouse side. Wait until summer before buying these, and if you can avoid using beans flown in from another continent, do so. We have forgone the beauty of seasonality in favour of convenience and are all the poorer for it. Summer vegetables in winter are sad.

Serves 4

50g (1¾oz) smoked streaky bacon lardons

1 banana shallot, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

50g (1¾oz) unsalted butter

500g (1lb 2oz) fine green beans, topped and tailed

250ml (9fl oz) water

4 ripe plum tomatoes, blanched, peeled and chopped

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Cook the bacon in a pan over a medium-high heat until the fat begins to render, then stir in the shallot and garlic and cook for 1 minute.

Add the butter, beans and water and cook until the water has evaporated and the beans are tender, tossing from time to time.

If the beans are not tender once the water has evaporated, add a small amount more water and let them cook for a bit longer.

Season with salt and pepper, toss in the tomato and serve.

Creamed corn

Creamed corn is a part of Midwestern and Southern American cuisine, made by pulping corn kernels and collecting the milky residue. This is my interpretation.

Serves 4–6

400ml (14fl oz) double cream

4 garlic cloves, bashed

1 large basil sprig

2 small red chillies, split

1kg (2lb 4oz) sweetcorn cobs (about 4 large cobs)

50g (1¾oz) quick cook or instant grits or polenta

50g (1¾oz) unsalted butter

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Place the cream, garlic, basil and chillies in a pan. Season with salt and pepper and bring to a gentle simmer, then remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 20 minutes.

Cut the tip off each cob. Using a small knife, cut the kernels from the cob and place in a large bowl. Using the back of the blade, scrape against the cob to press out the milky liquid and add to the kernels.

Pass the hot infused cream through a sieve over the sweetcorn and place back over a low heat. Stir in the polenta and butter and allow to thicken and cook for a few minutes. Correct the seasoning and serve.

Pennybun & bone marrow sauce

A delicious beef sauce that goes well with fish or veal, and can also be used as a stuffing. Pennybun is the English name for porcini or cep mushrooms.

Makes 500g (1lb 2oz)

10 dried porcini mushrooms

50g (1¾oz) unsalted butter

50g (1¾oz) Preserved Bone Marrow or fresh bone marrow, chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

150g (5½oz) sourdough breadcrumbs

250ml (9fl oz) Basic Beef Broth

50g (1¾oz) Parmesan cheese, finely grated

½ bunch of flat leaf parsley, leaves picked and chopped

finely grated zest and juice of 1 unwaxed lemon

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Soak the porcini in warm water for at least 1 hour, then drain and chop, reserving the soaking liquid.

Melt half the butter with the bone marrow in a pan. Add the chopped porcini and crushed garlic and cook for a few minutes. Add the breadcrumbs and season, then increase the heat a little.

Add half the porcini liquor and the remaining ingredients and stir to bring together (discard the remaining mushroom liquor, which could contain grit). Remove from the heat and serve.

Marchand de vin butter

The name of this classic red wine butter sauce for grilled steak translates as “Wine merchant’s butter”. Use the best red wine you can: it would be a shame to source great steak, cook it carefully and judiciously, only to chuck a bit of cheap plonk into this butter.

Makes 300g (10½oz)

300ml (½ pint) red wine

30g (1oz) finely chopped shallot

300ml (½ pint) Basic Beef Broth

100g (3½oz) grass-fed unsalted butter

100g (3½oz) bone marrow

1 tablespoon chopped flat leaf parsley leaves

1 teaspoon lemon juice

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Put the wine and shallot into a pan over a medium heat and simmer until the wine has reduced by half. Add the beef broth and simmer until reduced to a glaze.

Cream the butter with the bone marrow, then fold in the parsley and lemon juice and the reduced wine mixture, then season to taste.

Roll the butter into a sausage shape and chill to firm up.

Slice into discs and serve on top of grilled steak.

Caviar butter

Serve this with grilled steak.

Makes 200g (7oz)

125g (4½oz) salted butter

1 soft-boiled free-range egg, grated

1 tablespoon chopped flat leaf parsley leaves

1 tablespoon chopped shallots

1 tablespoon chopped capers

56g (2oz) can caviar

Beat the butter until light and fluffy, then fold in the remaining ingredients, the caviar last of all.

The butter can then be either spooned out, or rolled in clingfilm to form a sausage, then chilled. When firm, remove the clingfilm and slice.

Creamed spinach on toast

Another creamed spinach side dish (for the other see Creamed spinach with shirred eggs) – this one having the benefit of toast to soak up steak or roast beef juices. Spinach and steak are an age-old classic steakhouse combo and if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

Serves 4–6

20g (¾oz) unsalted butter

1kg (2lb 4oz) young spinach, picked and washed

1 large garlic clove

100ml (3½fl oz) double cream

100ml (3½fl oz) beef jus, thin gravy or reduced Basic Beef Broth or Madeira Gravy

4 slices of sourdough

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Melt the butter and allow it to foam to nut brown. Add the spinach and stir until wilted, using a fork with the garlic clove stuck in the tines.

Continuing over a medium heat, add the double cream in a thin stream, allowing it to reduce as you go. Repeat with the beef broth or gravy and allow it to reduce to a syrupy consistency. Adjust the seasoning and take off the heat.

Grill the sourdough on both sides, so it’s toasted but still chewy.

Top the toasts with the creamed spinach and serve.

Fried beets

Fried beets make a marvellous steak side and are marginally better for you than chips. Possibly.

Serves 4–6

1kg (2lb 4oz) cooked mixed beetroots, either oven-baked or ember-baked

beef dripping, for frying

rice flour, for dusting

Maldon sea salt flakes

Creamed Horseradish, to serve

Peel the cooked beetroots and cut them into large chips.

Heat some beef dripping either in a deep-fat fryer or in a large pan to the depth of 10cm (4 inches).

Liberally dust the beetroot chips with rice flour, then fry in the hot beef dripping until golden and crisp.

Drain on kitchen paper, then season with salt and serve with Creamed Horseradish.

Exploding onions

This American steakhouse side is really a showboat version of onion rings. It’s very tasty nonetheless, and is worth a try.

Serves 1

oil, for frying

1 large sweet onion, such as Vidalia

300g (10½oz) plain flour

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons paprika

½ teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon ground cumin

2 large free-range eggs

250ml (9fl oz) milk

225ml (8fl oz) water

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oil in a deep-fat fryer to 180°C (350°F).

Cut off 1cm (½ inch) from the top of the onion and peel. Place the onion cut side down on a board. Starting 1cm (½ inch) from the root, make a downward cut perpendicular to the root, all the way through to the board, stopping 1cm (½ inch) from the root, so the onion stays intact. Repeat three times, to make 4 evenly spaced cuts around the onion.

Continue slicing between each section until you have 16 evenly spaced cuts.

Turn the onion over and use your fingers to gently separate the outer layers, keeping the onion in one piece.

Mix together the flour, cayenne, paprika, thyme, oregano, cumin and ½ teaspoon of black pepper. In a small deep bowl, whisk the eggs, milk and the water.

Place the onion in a separate bowl, cut side up, and pour all the seasoned flour mixture on top. Cover the bowl with a plate, then shake back and forth to distribute the flour. Make sure the onion is fully coated, especially between the “petals”. Lift the onion and pat off the excess flour; set the bowl of seasoned flour aside.

Coat the onion in the egg mixture, making sure to coat all the layers completely. Remove, letting the excess egg drip off, then repeat the flouring process.

Carefully lower the onion into the oil, cut side down. Fry for about 3 minutes, then turn the onion over and cook until golden, about 3 more minutes. Drain on kitchen paper.

Season with salt and serve.

Mashed potato with bone marrow & onion gravy

There’s not much that can improve a great mash with gravy, but this has a damn good go.

Serves 4

200g (7oz) Preserved Bone Marrow

1kg (2lb 4oz) Maris Piper potatoes

200ml (7fl oz) milk

200ml (7fl oz) Onion Gravy

Maldon sea salt flakes

Whip the preserved bone marrow using a stand mixer until light and fluffy, then pass through a fine sieve and set aside.

Peel and chop the potatoes and put them into a pan. Cover with cold water, season with salt and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Use a sharp knife to check they are cooked, then drain in a colander and allow to steam-dry.

Bring the milk to the boil, then remove from the heat.

Pass the potatoes through a vegetable mill or potato ricer, then fold in the milk and correct the seasoning.

Heat the onion gravy. Put the mash into a serving dish and pipe the whipped bone marrow into the centre. Pour the hot gravy over the top, to cover, and serve.

Mashed potato with extra virgin olive oil

Typical of the Mediterranean, mashed potatoes soaked in extra virgin olive oil makes a delicious and simple side to rich meat and offal. Try sprinkling chopped green peppers on top for extra freshness.

Serves 4

500g (1lb 2oz) Maris Piper potatoes

4 garlic cloves, peeled

1 teaspoon Maldon sea salt flakes

125ml (4fl oz) extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve

chopped green pepper, to garnish (optional)

Peel and chop the potatoes and put them into a pan with the garlic. Cover with cold water, season with the salt and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Use a sharp knife to check they are cooked, then drain in a colander and allow to steam-dry.

While still hot, pass the potatoes and garlic through a potato ricer or vegetable mouli into a bowl. Fold in the olive oil, then season with salt to taste. Serve in a deep dish garnished with chopped green pepper and more olive oil poured over the top.

Potato, Parmesan & anchovy gratin

Loosely based on Jansson’s Temptation, but using salted Spanish anchovies instead of Abba Grebbestad ansjovis – which are actually cured sprats – this potato garnish is one of my favourite side dishes of all time. If you have access to the Scandinavian cured sprats you could use them – the dish will be more authentic, although I’m not convinced much improved.

Serves 4–6

1 litre (1¾ pints) single cream

1 large rosemary sprig

1kg (2lb 4oz) waxy potatoes, peeled

2 large garlic cloves, crushed to a purée

100g (3½oz) salted anchovies, chopped

100g (3½oz) Parmesan cheese, finely grated

50g (1¾oz) fresh breadcrumbs

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Put the single cream and the rosemary sprig into a pot. Bring to the boil, season to taste, then remove from the heat and set aside for 20 minutes to infuse.

Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F), Gas Mark 3.

Slice the potatoes using a mandolin and tip them into a large bowl. Pour the cream though a fine sieve into the bowl of potatoes. Spread the garlic purée in a large (2 litre/3½ pint) gratin dish and layer up the potatoes and anchovies. Cover with foil and bake in the oven for about 1 hour, or until cooked through and the potatoes are tender when tested with a knife.

Remove from the oven, sprinkle with Parmesan and breadcrumbs, then return to the oven, uncovered, and bake for a further 20 minutes, or until golden and bubbling.

Macaroni cheese

Swap the macaroni for par-cooked cauliflower to make the ultimate cauliflower cheese, or mix the two for a cauliflower macaroni cheese.

Serves 4–6

1 garlic clove

360g (12oz) dried elbow macaroni

500ml (18fl oz) milk

50g (1¾oz) butter

50g (1¾oz) plain flour

80g (2¾oz) Stilton cheese, crumbled

80g (2¾oz) Cheddar cheese, grated

80g (2¾oz) Ogleshield or other washed rind cheese, grated

a pinch of grated nutmeg

125g (4½oz) mozzarella, chopped

3 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan cheese

3 tablespoons panko breadcrumbs

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground white pepper

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas Mark 6. Rub a 20 x 20 x 5cm (8 x 8 x 2 inch) baking dish with the cut side of the garlic clove.

Cook the pasta in a large pan of boiling salted water until al dente or according to the packet instructions.

In a small pan bring the milk to a foamy boil, then reduce the heat to low and keep warm. In another saucepan, melt the butter over a medium heat, whisk in the flour and continue to cook till smooth and a pale “roux” has formed. Whisking constantly, slowly add the hot milk to the roux, then continue to whisk until the sauce thickens and bubbles gently, about 2 minutes. Add the Stilton, Cheddar and Ogleshield, season with a pinch of salt and white pepper and the freshly grated nutmeg, and stir until the cheeses have completely melted and the sauce is smooth.

Drain the pasta and return it to the pan. Add the cheese sauce and mix to combine. Fold in the mozzarella and quickly pour into the baking dish before the mozzarella melts. Bake for 8 minutes, then remove and sprinkle the mixed Parmesan and panko crumbs on top. Put back into the oven and bake for a further 8 minutes, or until golden brown.

Ash-baked sweet potatoes with caramelized onion

This recipe calls for burning the skin of the sweet potato to an unappetizing black, but don’t be put off as it’s actually delicious. Should the prospect of burnt skin not appeal, you can always eat only the flesh – but that would be a shame.

Serves 4

4 large orange-fleshed sweet potatoes

1 tablespoon butter

2 large onions, peeled and finely sliced

50g (1¾oz) clear honey

50ml (2fl oz) cider vinegar

1 tablespoon thyme leaves

1 tablespoon rosemary leaves, chopped

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Place the sweet potatoes in the dying embers of a charcoal grill or barbecue, then pile the embers up around the potatoes and allow them to cook through. The skin will burn, but that’s OK.

While the potatoes are cooking, heat the butter in a large heavy-based pan and fry the onions for 20 minutes over a medium heat until softened and golden in colour.

Add the honey and cider vinegar and simmer for a further 20 minutes until most of the liquid has evaporated, stirring constantly.

Add the herbs and season with plenty of salt and pepper.

Remove the sweet potatoes from the ashes and dust them off, then split them and fill with the hot onion mixture. Serve with grilled steak or roast beef.

Truffled Tunworth

Tunworth is my favourite cheese – it cannot be improved upon. It can, however, be mixed up a bit with the addition of a little truffle and cow’s curd, then used as a steak garnish. Buy your truffle fresh online – if you pick up one of those sad little jars in a supermarket, you’ll wonder why I bothered with this recipe.

Serves 4–6

1 whole Tunworth cheese

100g (3½oz) cow’s curd or curd cheese

1 whole small fresh black truffle

Slice the top off the Tunworth cheese and reserve. Scoop out the soft cheese from the inside, leaving at least 1cm (½ inch) of cheese around all the edges – this is to avoid it from collapsing.

In a bowl, mix the soft Tunworth with the cow’s curd, blending it to a smooth consistency, then grate in the whole black truffle through the large holes of your grater.

Pipe this mixture back inside the cheese until it’s full, and place the reserved lid on top. Cover and keep in a cool, cheese-friendly place until needed.

When your steak is cooked, slice the Tunworth in wedges and lay 1 wedge on top of each steak, allowing it to melt gently. You’re welcome.

Semi-cured foie gras garnish

Originally an Egyptian ingredient of fattened goose or duck liver, that has quite rightly garnered a bad reputation among ethical carnivores and animal rights activists alike. There are, however, natural occurrences of foie gras in birds migrating south for the winter, which is probably how the Egyptians discovered it. In Spain there is a chap farming seasonal and ethical foie gras without gavage or forced feeding of any kind, and it’s this that I would urge you to use if you can source it.

Serves 4–6

1 x 600g (1lb 5oz) whole ethically reared raw duck foie gras, cleaned and deveined (see recipe introduction)

20g (¾oz) Basic Beef Rub

50ml (2fl oz) Madeira

Maldon sea salt flakes

Lay the cleaned foie gras on a piece of baking parchment. Lightly season with the steak rub and splash over the Madeira.

Using a sheet of clingfilm, roll the foie gras into a tight cylinder. Secure the clingfilm at both ends, then refrigerate for 1 hour.

Remove the clingfilm and wrap the foie gras in a layer of cheesecloth. Tie the ends of the cheesecloth, squeezing the foie gras to create a tight cylinder. Place in a plastic container and bury it completely in salt. Refrigerate for 12 hours.

Remove the foie gras cylinder from the salt and unwrap the cheesecloth.

Shave the foie gras into thin slivers and let it melt on top of hot steak.

Oyster sauce

One day in 1888, Lee Kum Sheung was cooking oyster soup as usual, but lost track of time. Smelling a strong savoury aroma, he lifted the lid of the pot and noticed that the normally clear oyster soup had turned into a thick, brownish sauce that astonished him with the most fragrant smell and unique, delicious taste. This oyster sauce went on to be particularly popular with beef.

Makes about 200ml (7fl oz)

200g (7oz) shucked oysters, juices reserved

50ml (2fl oz) water

50ml (2fl oz) light soy sauce

50ml (2fl oz) dark soy sauce

50g (1¾oz) sugar

Drain the shucked oysters, reserving the liquid. Use a sharp kitchen knife to roughly chop them.

Place the chopped oysters in a small saucepan with the reserved oyster juices and the water. Bring to a simmer, stirring the contents of the saucepan occasionally to prevent the oysters from sticking to the pan. Reduce the heat to low, allow the liquid to drop to a gentle simmer, and cook for 10 minutes or until thickened, stirring from time to time.

Add the soy sauces and the sugar and simmer for a further 5 minutes until the sugar dissolves, then pour the contents of the saucepan, through a sieve or strainer. Save the liquid and discard the solid ingredients.

Breeds

A breed is defined as a type of cattle, carefully selected over time, that reliably reproduces its qualities and appearance in its progeny. Each breed has its own particular merits and characteristics, and it takes generations to create and fix a new breed.

Today’s cattle breeds were developed through selective breeding to enhance characteristics that were suited to their local environments. Cattle in cold, mountainous areas were small, hardy beasts, with a thick coat of long hair and a knack for surviving in harsh conditions. Cattle in lowlands with a temperate climate were less hardy and adapted to flatter grazing pasture, while those in cooler lowlands were somewhere in between.

What’s more, in the days when rural settlements often comprised a single wealthy landowner and many tenant-farming families, each family would keep a milking cow, which needed to be in calf to produce. Not being able to afford their own bull, they used the services of the lord of the manor’s bull, which attended to the entire settlement’s cows. The bull imprinted its genes on every calf, and these characteristics strengthened with each generation, forming local traits that eventually became breeds.

Cattle breeding continued in this haphazard manner until the mid-18th century, when the famous agriculturalist Robert Bakewell, from Leicestershire in England, pioneered selective breeding by keeping the sexes separate, choosing traits to fix and deliberately in-breeding.

Many of these British and Continental European breeds then went on to cross the Atlantic, taken by explorers and settlers to North America, where they continued to develop into other breeds. Later some were exported around the world, as far afield as Australia and New Zealand.

In the second half of the 20th century, native heritage breeds went into decline as post-war farming techniques favoured hybrid animals (which grow faster due to something called hybrid vigour), and as modern practices were introduced, in order to produce larger quantities of cheaper meat. Recently, however, we have seen a return to favour of many of these old breeds, as butchers, chefs and consumers are voting with their stomachs and searching them out.

Included here are the breeds that I know and use, or that are famous. It’s by no means a comprehensive roll call – there are breeds I have never encountered, so am loathe to write about – but the list does, in my opinion, include all the great beef breeds. As previously explained, breed is only part of the equation. If you are in Africa eating the most amazing Ankole-Watusi steak, and wondering why on earth it wasn’t included in the book, let me hazard a guess that your animal led a good and happy life, fed on a variety of grasses, herbs and clovers, and died a stress-free death, which made it such a righteous feast. While finding specific breeds is an important issue when searching for the best meat, any animal can only fulfil its genetic potential with the right feed, husbandry and slaughter. Only when all four things combine do we get meat as it really should be eaten.

Aberdeen Angus

This is a truly famous, if much abused, breed name, and much of today’s beef contains some Angus genes. Developed from cattle native to the Scottish counties of Aberdeenshire and Angus, it has been recorded since the 16th century. Hornless cattle in Aberdeenshire and Angus had been locally called Angus doddies or Buchan humlies, but in 1824 William McCombie, of Tillyfour, Aberdeenshire, began to improve the stock, and he is regarded today as the father of the breed. The first herd book was created in 1862, and the breed society was established in Scotland in 1879. By the mid-20th century the cattle were commonplace throughout the British Isles, and today their genes are used the world over to grow prime beef.

In Europe, meat can be sold as Aberdeen Angus if it has at least 50 per cent Angus genes, which means that almost all meat sold as such is actually a cross. Because of commercial factors, such as rate of weight gain, 100 per cent pure Aberdeen Angus beef is quite rare and rather special.

Pure Angus typically mature earlier than other native British breeds. They are hardy, making them able to survive the harsh Scottish winters. They are naturally polled (hornless) and usually black, although more recently red colours have emerged. The UK registers both in the same herd book, but despite their being genetically identical, they are regarded in the US as two separate breeds – Red Angus and Black Angus. Black Angus is the most common breed of beef cattle in the US.

In 1883 the American Angus Association was founded in Chicago, and the first herd book was published in 1885, when both red and black animals were registered without distinction. However, in 1917, in an effort to promote a solid black breed, the association barred the registering of red and other coloured animals.

The American Angus Association created the “Certified Angus Beef” standard in 1978 to promote the idea that the meat was of higher quality than beef from other breeds of cattle. All cattle are eligible for this evaluation if they are at least 51 per cent black and exhibit Angus influence, which includes crossbreds. However, they must meet all ten of the following criteria:

•   Modest or higher degree of marbling

•   Medium or fine marbling texture

•   “A” maturity

•   64.5–103.2cm^2 (10–16 inch^2) rib-eye area

•   Less than 453.6kg (1,000lb) hot carcass weight

•   Less than 2.5cm (1in) fat thickness

•   Moderately thick or thicker muscling

•   No hump on the neck exceeding 5cm (2in)

•   Practically free of capillary rupture

•   No dark cutting characteristics

•   Usually black or red in colour

Unfortunately, this means the name Angus is somewhat devalued unless you can verify it is 100 per cent pure, which is a rarity.

Belted Galloway

Also known as “belties” in the UK and “Oreo cows” in the US, this breed originated in Galloway, southwest Scotland. Well suited to rough grazing land and adapted to living on the poor upland pastures and windswept moorlands of the region, Belted Galloways are able to maintain good condition on this less than ideal pasture, and can produce quality marbled beef on pure grass without finishing (altering their diet before slaughter).

Galloway breeders acquired their own herd book in 1878, and in 1921 the Dun and Belted Galloway Association was formed in Scotland. The name was changed to the Belted Galloway Society 30 years later, as Dun cattle were no longer registered. The Society keeps and records pedigrees for Belted Galloways and it oversees the registration of White and Red Galloways.

Galloway cattle are naturally polled. The most visible characteristics of the Belted Galloway are the long hair coat and the broad white belt that completely encircles the body. The coarse outer coat helps shed the rain, while the soft undercoat provides both insulation and waterproofing, enabling the breed to spend winter outdoors.

Riggit Galloway cattle are an archaic strain, easily identifiable by the white stripe, running down the spine. (The term “riggit” is a Scottish vernacular reference to this stripe.) The main body colour can be black, blue/black, red, brown or dun, and the white coloration may include a widening of the stripe to cover much of the back (particularly on the hindquarters), white under the keel of the animal, and white flashes among the solid colour.

British White

This is a naturally polled, large and hardy native breed exhibiting the dual characteristics of beef and milking ability. It is white with black or red points – that is, muzzle, ears, eye rims, horn tips and feet. The modern breed of cattle known as British Whites can claim direct links with the ancient indigenous wild white cattle of Great Britain, notably those from the park at Whalley Abbey, Lancashire.

Charolais

White, cream or pale straw-coloured, these large animals are long-bodied, heavily muscled and late-maturing. Most Charolais have short horns and pink muzzles. Charolais is the most common beef breed in France and was introduced to the southern US in 1946 and the northern US in 1965.

Devon

This is one of several breeds derived from the traditional red cattle of southern England, the others being the Hereford, Sussex, Lincoln Red and Red Poll. They vary in shade from a rich deep red to a light red or chestnut colour. A bright ruby-red colour is preferred and accounts for the breed’s nickname, the “Red Ruby”. The hair, which is of medium thickness, is often long and curly during the winter but short and sleek in summer. The switch of the tail is creamy white.

Although the Devon was originally a horned breed, American stockmen have developed a polled strain of pure-bred Devons.

The Devon was previously classified as a dual-purpose breed. Over the past half-century, however, it has been developed as a beef-type breed. Its ability to utilize grass and other forages efficiently has heightened its popularity in areas such as southern Brazil, Australia and New Zealand.

Dexter

The smallest of the European cattle breeds, the Dexter originated in southwestern Ireland and was brought to England in 1882. Dexters come in three colours – black, red and dun – and should have no white markings except for some very minor white ones on the belly/udder behind the navel, and some white hairs in the tail switch.

Originally, Dexters were typically horned, with small, thick horns growing outwards with a forward curve on the male, and upwards on the female. However, a naturally polled strain was developed in the 1990s.

The breed virtually disappeared in Ireland, but was still maintained as a pure breed in a number of small herds in England and also in the US. The Dexter’s small size notwithstanding, the body is wide and deep, with well-rounded hindquarters.

The beef produced by Dexters is well marbled and tends to be darker than most, with an intense beefy flavour. Good Dexter beef is some of the best I’ve tasted and right up there with that of Highland.

Galician Blond

Also known as Rubia Galega, this is a breed native to Galicia in northwestern Spain. It is raised mainly for meat and is distributed throughout Galicia, with about 75 per cent of the population concentrated in the province of Lugo. It is found particularly at altitudes above about 550m (1,800ft) in mountainous areas in the northern part of Lugo. The coat may be red-blond, wheaten or cinnamon-coloured. A herd book was established in 1933.

Gloucester

These are large cattle, coloured a rich dark brown in the cows, calves and steers, and almost black in the bulls. They have a white belly and a white stripe (known as a finching stripe) along the spine and continuing over the tail. They normally have well-developed white horns with black tips.

Cattle of a similar type were numerous in England’s Cotswold Hills and Severn Valley as early as the 13th century. They were valued for their milk, for providing strong and docile draft oxen and eventually for their beef. By 1972 only one significant herd remained and the breed was in danger of dying out. The next year, the Gloucester Cattle Society was revived and the breed has moved from near extinction to a rating by the Rare Breeds Survival Trust of being “At Risk”, as there are still fewer than 750 registered breeding females.

Hereford

Red and white in colour, with varying shades from deep cherry to a light orange, Herefords have white running from the face to behind the ears and down the chest. They are stocky and square in appearance, with obvious muscle mass in the shoulders. Their hair ranges from slick and smooth to short and curly, thickening in winter. Herefords are widely used in both intemperate and temperate areas for meat production, and more than five million pedigree Hereford cattle now exist in more than fifty countries. The Hereford cattle export trade was begun in 1817 in the UK by the politician Henry Clay, who exported them to the American state of Kentucky. In the 1840s the breed began to be exported across the Atlantic more extensively, spreading across the US and Canada through Mexico to the great beef-raising countries of South America. Hereford cattle are now found all over the temperate parts of the world.

Highland

These cattle are tough and hairy, and one of Britain’s purest breeds, having been improved by selection rather than cross-breeding. They have long horns and long, wavy coats that are coloured black, brindle, red, yellow, white, silver or dun. They are raised primarily for their meat. They originated in the Highlands and Western Isles of Scotland and were first mentioned in the 6th century. They have an unusual double coat of hair. On the outside is the oily outer hair – the longest of any cattle breed – covering a downy undercoat. This makes them well suited to conditions in the Scottish Highlands, a region with a high annual rainfall and sometimes very strong winds, and it gives the breed the ability to overwinter outside. Their skill in foraging for food allows them to survive in steep mountain areas where they both graze and eat plants that many other cattle avoid. They can also dig through the snow with their horns to find buried plants. A herd of Highland cattle is known as a “fold”.

The meat of Highland cattle is tender and leaner than most beef because the cattle are largely insulated by their thick, shaggy hair rather than by subcutaneous fat. Unfortunately, they are slow-growing, and animals are few and far between. Highland cattle can produce beef at a reasonable profit from land that would otherwise normally be unsuitable for agriculture. At the festival Meatopia UK 2016, I had the good fortune to taste a seven-year-old Angus Mackay Highland from the Isle of Mull, hung for a couple of weeks – it may be the best beef I have ever tasted. The beef guru Mark Schatzker agrees: in his book Steak he found Highland beef to be the best he had encountered on his global search.

Limousin

The Limousin is naturally horned and has a distinctive light wheat to dark golden-red colouring, although international breeders have now bred polled and black versions. These highly muscled cattle originate from the Limousin and Marche regions of France. Having been first exported in significant numbers in the 1960s, they are now found in around 70 countries. Limousins became popular because of their low birth weights (which means ease of calving), higher than average dressing percentage (ratio of carcass to live weight) and yield (ratio of meat to carcass), high feed conversion efficiency and ability to produce lean, tender meat.

Lincoln Red

Large cattle that are a dark red in colour, this breed was originally called the Lincoln Red Shorthorn. Now they may be polled or horned. “Shorthorn” was consequently dropped from the name in the 1960s. They are noted for their docility and ability to thrive under all conditions. They originate from Lincolnshire in eastern England where they were selectively bred from the indigenous draught cattle of the region by crossing with red Shorthorns to produce a dual-purpose breed. They are now exclusively a beef breed. First exported more than a century ago, they are now found in a dozen or so countries around the world.

Longhorn

This breed is not to be confused with the Texas Longhorn which is also often called “Longhorn cattle” or “Longhorns”. English Longhorns are a brown and white breed of beef cattle originating from Craven, in the north of the country. They have curved horns that tend to grow down around the face, framing it. The notable horns that distinguish this breed from others can make them appear aggressive, although they are, in fact, quite docile. Longhorns live longer than other breeds of cattle and are also known for calving with ease. They have a white patch along the line of their spine and under their bellies.

Though long-horned oxen were already predominant in Craven in the 16th and 17th centuries, the English Longhorn breed was much improved for beef by Sir Robert Bakewell, at a time when large amounts of meat were needed to feed people who had moved to towns and cities in the Industrial Revolution.

Red Angus

These cattle are a dark golden red in colour but otherwise identical to Aberdeen Angus, and they produce beef of a similar quality. Naturally polled like their black relatives, they are one of the world’s top beef breeds. The Red Angus Association of America was founded in 1954 by breeders, in response to having their cattle struck off from the herd book for not conforming to a changing breed standard regarding colour.

Red Poll

A deep red with white only on the tail switch and udder, and polled, the Red Poll evolved in the 19th century from a cross of the Norfolk Red beef cattle and Suffolk Dun dairy cattle breeds, both of which are now extinct. Red Poll cattle were exported around the world in the mid-19th century for beef production, although they are considered a dual-purpose breed. Consequently the Red Poll has been used to create several new breeds across Latin America and the Caribbean.

Santa Gertrudis

Red in colour, the Santa Gertrudis may be polled or horned. This is a hardy breed that is good for beef production, with excellent mothering ability, ease of calving, heat tolerance and parasite resistance. Santa Gertrudis cattle are known the world over for their ability to adapt to harsh climates.

Developed on the King Ranch in southern Texas, by mating Brahman bulls with Shorthorn cows, they were named for the Spanish land grant where Captain Richard King originally established the King Ranch. The breed was officially recognized by the USDA in 1940, becoming the first beef breed formed in the US. In 1950, the Santa Gertrudis Breeders International Association was formed at Kingsville, Texas.

Shorthorn

These cattle are coloured red, white, roan, red and white, or roan and white, and the rare Whitebred Shorthorn has been bred to be consistently white. Shorthorn cattle originated in the northeast of England in the late 18th century and were developed as dual-purpose – suitable for both dairy and beef production. However, certain bloodlines within the breed always emphasized one quality or the other. Over time, these different lines diverged, and by the second half of the 20th century, two separate breeds had developed – the sturdy Beef Shorthorn and the Dairy Shorthorn. As an archetypal British beef breed, the Beef Shorthorn has spread in huge numbers all over the world, where it has adapted to tropical and subtropical climates.

Simmental

The defining characteristic of a Simmental is the white face, with coat colours ranging from yellow to dun red, marked with white on the legs and tail. No other breed in the world has such a large within-breed type variation as Simmental. American Simmentals are mainly black or dark red. Most Simmental cattle are solid in colouring. From the late 1960s to the 1980s, traditionally coloured (spotted red and white) Simmental were deemed most desirable by Simmental breeders, as well as the industry. It is among the oldest and most widely distributed of all breeds of cattle in the world, and was recorded as having originated in the valley of the Simme River, in the Bernese Oberland of western Switzerland, in the Middle Ages.

South Devon

This breed is a rich, medium red to golden sand with copper tints, though it varies in shade and can even appear slightly mottled. The breed today is predominately used for beef production, although it has been milked in the past.

These large cattle evolved from the large red cattle of Normandy which were imported into England at the time of the Norman invasion (11th century). The South Devon of today originated in southwest England, in an area of Devon known as the South Hams, from where the breed spread across the counties of Devon and Cornwall. Geographical isolation caused the North and South Devon to become physically distinct types, though occasional crossing between the two breeds occurred until the mid-19th century. South Devons are now farmed all over the world on five continents.

Sussex

This breed has a deep red-brown coat, with a white switch to the tail. It is a medium-sized, long-bodied animal, and traditionally it has white horns, although naturally polled strains have also been developed. They hail from the Weald of Sussex, Surrey and Kent in southeast England and are descended from the draught oxen long used in this area. From the late 18th century, they were selectively bred to form a modern beef breed, which is now used in many countries around the world. The Sussex has a placid temperament but can be very stubborn. It is one of several similarly coloured breeds of southern England – the others include the North Devon, the Hereford, the Lincoln Red and the Red Poll. All these breeds derive originally from the traditional multipurpose red indigenous cattle of the region.

Texas Longhorn

This breed is known for its characteristic handlebar horns, which extend, tip to tip, 1m (39in) and often over 1.5m (58in)! Their coloration ranges from red to black with assorted white spots, speckles and splotches. They are completely distinct from the British Longhorn, having descended from the first cattle in the New World, an Iberian hybrid of two ancient cattle lineages: “taurine” descending from the domestication of the wild aurochs in the Middle East, and “indicine” (Indian). They were brought by Christopher Columbus and the Spanish colonists, and have a high drought-stress tolerance.

Wagyu

This refers to any of four mostly black breeds. The Japanese Black makes up 90 per cent of all fattened cattle in Japan. Strains of Japanese Black include Tottori, Tajima, Shimane and Okayama. The Japanese Brown, or Japanese Red, is the other main breed; strains include Kochi and Kumamoto. They are genetically predisposed to intense marbling and to producing a high percentage of oleaginous unsaturated fat. The meat from such Wagyu cattle is known for its quality and is judged on four different criteria: the marbling intensity; the colour of the fat; the colour of the muscle tissue itself (the meat); and the shape of the muscle.

Originating in the second century, primarily as a work animal for the rice paddies, they have come to be known as the most highly marbled and most expensive beef produced in the world today. Different breeding and feeding techniques were once used, such as massaging or adding beer or sake to their feeding regimen to aid digestion and induce hunger during humid seasons; the massaging also prevented muscle cramping on small farms in Japan where the animals did not have sufficient room to use their muscles. Neither of these techniques affect the flavour, and they are no longer widely used.

Welsh Black

As the name suggests, these are naturally black, and they generally have white horns with black tips; some are also naturally polled or hornless. The occasional Red individual occurs, having once been more common. The Welsh Black was a dual-purpose breed until the 1970s, but is now mainly used for beef.

Its hardy nature, coupled with its habit of browsing as well as grazing, makes it ideal for rough pasture such as heathland and moorland, and for conservation grazing. Welsh Blacks are found throughout the UK and although small numbers exist around the world they have not been extensively exported.

White Park

Also known as the Ancient White Park, the White Forest, the White Horned, the Wild White or simply “the Park”, the White Park is porcelain-white with black or red coloured points. The teats and horn tips usually are black but may lack pigment. Its horns are long or medium-long. In cows they normally grow sideways, curving forwards and upwards. In bulls they are stronger and less curved. White Park is a rare breed, with ancient herds preserved in Great Britain. It includes two very rare types that are often regarded as distinct: the Chillingham and the Vaynol.

My perfect burger

Cheeseburger

Burger buns

Half sours

Pickled shiitake mushrooms

Umami cheeseburger

Gentleman’s relish

Kimchi

Kimchi burger

Green chilli cheeseburgers

Adobo chilli sauce

Mustard fried onion burger

Cheeseburger toastie

Rearing

My perfect burger

While America is considered the home of the hamburger, patties of chopped beef have, in fact, been part of Eastern European cuisines for centuries. Russian traders brought them to Hamburg in the 15th century, and then four centuries later, when most German immigrants to America travelled from the port of Hamburg, they brought their taste for “Hamburg-style beef” with them. By the 1830s, a New York City restaurant was serving Hamburg Steak, and in 1873 the New York Times wrote that it was “simply a beefsteak redeemed from its original toughness by being mashed into mincemeat, then formed into a conglomerate mass. This is very appetizing, but conscience compels us to state that it is inferior to the genuine article”. Oh, how things have changed.

The state of Wisconsin claims to have come up with the modern burger, when in 1885 Charles Nagreen made sandwiches from his homemade meatballs and sold these “hamburgers” at his local county fair. By the 1920s, the first hamburger joints had appeared, followed by Wimpy in the 1930s. In 1948 the McDonald brothers turned their barbecue restaurant into a drive-in that sold hamburgers, fries and milkshakes.

It may not be the world’s healthiest sandwich, but a classic burger still hits the spot like nothing else. Its diversity is mind-boggling. To get an idea of how many variations on the burger there are in the US alone, read George Motz’s compendious Hamburger America, a riveting joy for any fellow burger geek.

A feast for the senses

Eating a burger is a multisensory experience – taste is only one component of the perfect patty. Sight, smell, feeling and even sound also contribute to our perception of how it tastes. Good presentation combines with the aroma of first-rate ingredients and of the fat in the beef to whet the appetite. The feeling of the soft, warm bun in the hand adds to the anticipation – a perfect burger should never be eaten with cutlery.

Sound is often the forgotten sense; a burger would be disappointing without hearing the crunch of lettuce.

Essential components

My perfect burger is 10cm (4 inches) tall, 10cm (4 inches) wide and boasts eight layers;

•   warm toasted bun top

•   tomato ketchup

•   juicy beef tomato

•   slice of melted cheese

•   seasoned patty of beef

•   crunchy salad and fresh onion

•   mustard mayonnaise sauce

•   warm toasted bun base

The patty

The star of this chapter is the patty. All the other components – bun, lettuce, cheese, sauce – are part of the delivery system and so are supporting acts. The way the meat is minced and the cuts that are used in the grind are the most important factors in producing a truly great burger. It is important to start with fresh beef mince – the fresher the better – so if you can mince your own on the day of cooking, you’ll get to eat restaurant-quality burgers. (By fresh I mean freshly minced. The beef should, of course, have been hung according to your preference; (see Hanging beef).) Failing that, ask your butcher to mince your beef for you on the morning of cooking.

A lot of thought is given to meat blends in the burger world, and different cuts do give their own qualities to a burger. Fat is imperative to a great burger, providing moistness and flavour. As a rule, most burger aficionados incorporate around 20 per cent fat in their blend, but I know of at least one successful purveyor that prefers 30 per cent, and damned fine burgers they are, too. If you like your burger pink, spare a thought for the type of fat you use; different beef fats have different melting points, so I favour bone marrow. My favourite blends are:

• A simple 90 per cent chuck with 10 per cent bone marrow, the chuck naturally containing over 10 per cent fat and the bone marrow topping it up to over 20 per cent.

• 80 per cent offcuts left from butchering prime steaks with 20 per cent aged cod fat (soft beef fat taken from the hindquarter, not from a fish). This blend has the benefit of aged steak flavour.

• 60 per cent chuck, 20 per cent heart and 20 per cent bone marrow. Heart is often used in cheap burgers pertaining to be 100 per cent beef as it is cheap and is hard to sell on its own. It does, however, have an interesting flavour that I’m quite fond of.

Decide on your chosen meat blend, and chop the various cuts into 2cm (¾ inch) cubes, then refrigerate until very cold. It doesn’t hurt to also chill the meat grinder attachment, just to be on the safe side. Heat is the enemy of good burger patty preparation. Using a meat grinder fitted with a 4mm (about ⅛ inch) plate, grind the meat, then refrigerate once more until very cold. Change the grinding plate to a 6mm (¼ inch) plate and refrigerate the whole attachment again.

When cold, pass the meat mixture through the grinder and lay out the strands of meat, trying to keep the grain of the individual strands running lengthways, in the same direction, without getting tangled together.

Divide the minced beef into 200g (7oz) piles, taking care not to handle or mix them too much. With your hands cupped, gently form them into balls, then loosely press each ball into an even patty, around 12cm (4½ inch) wide and 2cm (¾ inch) thick. Lay the patties between squares of greaseproof paper and refrigerate them for an hour before cooking. Note that at no point has any form of seasoning, filling or flavouring been added: burger patties should be 100 per cent pure beef. Anything else is a beef sausage or stuffing.

The bun

The next most important element is the bun. The very best buns are, of course, homemade, and I’ve included my current favourite recipe here. A burger bun should be firm enough to hold the filling without getting immediately soaked and disintegrating in a soggy mess. It should be innocuous in flavour, with no herbs or spices. A burger is about the beef, the whole beef, and nothing but the beef. The bun should be the same size when toasted as the burger is when cooked.

The extras

Sauces, pickles and salads are important, but should be kept to a minimum. Their role is to insulate the bun from the juicy burger, to complement the star of the show and to offer texture, crunch and freshness. It goes without saying that all these accompaniments should be of the best possible quality. You might even consider omitting sliced tomato in the depths of winter, in favour of a perfect sliced raw Portobello mushroom.

Having talked about keeping things simple and the roles each part of the perfect burger plays, I’m going to suggest an optional “pimp” of the classic burger. Serving a side dish of thin but tasty beef jus with a burger might horrify my slightly fanatical burger associates, but it certainly adds something to my perfect burger.

Cheeseburger

Opinions vary on the perfect cheeseburger, but for me it’s all about the beef – whatever you add should support and not overwhelm that beefiness. These are garnishes that have proven themselves in every burger dive up and down the country, and are now considered classic.

800g (1lb 12oz) burger mince, made with 90 per cent chuck steak, 10 per cent fat (see The patty)

85g (3oz) bone marrow, chopped

4 thin slices of cheese, Ogleshield if at all possible, Cheddar if not

4 tablespoons mustard mayonnaise (50:50 mix of mustard and mayonnaise)

4 Burger Buns, slightly smaller than each patty

4 tablespoons tomato ketchup

4 leaves of Bibb (Butterhead) lettuce

4 thin slices of red onion

4 thin slices of beef tomato

2 Half Sours (pickled cucumbers), halved

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Mix the minced chuck steak into the fat and bone marrow, and form 4 loose patties. Season and grill on one side, then flip to grill the other side. Top with the cheese and cook until pink or cooked, however you like them.

Split and toast the buns directly over the hot side of the grill until browned, about 30 seconds.

Spread the mustard mayonnaise on the bases of the toasted buns and the ketchup on the tops.

Place a lettuce leaf and a slice of onion on top of the mayonnaise side of the buns and a tomato slice on the ketchup side. Stack the sandwich with the patty in the middle and serve with a Half Sour spear half on the side.

Burger buns

Makes 8 large buns

125ml (4fl oz) warm milk

200ml (7fl oz) warm water

2 teaspoons active dry yeast

20g (¾oz) sugar

500–525g (1lb 2oz–1lb 3oz) strong white flour, plus extra for kneading

2 teaspoons fine sea salt

1 teaspoon vitamin C powder

3 large free-range eggs

40g (1½oz) unsalted butter, softened

1 tablespoon water

Combine the milk, water, yeast and sugar in a small bowl, whisk well and leave to stand for 5 minutes until foamy.

Mix the flour, salt and vitamin C powder in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Add the water/milk mixture and mix on medium-low speed until just combined. With the mixer still running, add 2 of the eggs, separately, waiting for the first egg to be fully incorporated before adding the next. Add the butter 1 tablespoon at a time until fully incorporated.

Continue to mix on medium-low speed for 2–3 minutes. If the dough appears too sticky, add more flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, until it pulls away from the sides of the mixer (it will still stick to the base). Continue kneading until the dough is smooth and elastic, 5–6 minutes longer.

Loosely cover the bowl with clingfilm or a clean tea towel and let it rise until doubled in volume (about 1 hour at room temperature, or 6 hours in the fridge).

Turn the dough out on to a lightly floured surface and, using a bench scraper or sharp knife, cut it into 8 equal pieces, each about 120g (4½oz).

Line 2 baking sheets with nonstick baking paper. Form each piece of dough into a ball and place on the baking sheets, 4 per sheet, about 10cm (4 inches) apart. Spray with nonstick cooking spray (or brush with oil), cover loosely with clingfilm, and allow to rise for about 1 hour at room temperature, until about doubled in size.

Adjust the oven racks to lower-middle and upper-middle positions and preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas Mark 6. Gently press the dough balls down until 10–12cm (4–4½ inches) wide and 4cm (1½ inches) high. Beat the remaining egg with 1 tablespoon water and brush the entire exposed surface of the buns. Bake them for 7 minutes, then remove from the oven, brush with the remaining egg wash, and bake for 10–15 minutes longer, until a deep, shiny, golden brown, rotating the baking sheets from top to bottom and front to back halfway through baking. Transfer the buns to a wire rack and allow to cool completely.

Half sours

Half sours are half-pickled gherkins, or wallies.

Makes 3 x 1 litre (1¾ pint) jars

20 small cucumbers

5 garlic cloves

small bunch of dill

500ml (18fl oz) white wine vinegar

500ml (18fl oz) water

125g (4½oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

125g (4½oz) caster sugar

5 hot red chillies, split

15g (½oz) mustard seeds

15g (½oz) black peppercorns

Wash the cucumbers and drain well, then place them in sterilized Kilner jars with the garlic and dill sprigs. Mix the remaining ingredients together and stir until the salt and sugar dissolve. Pour over the cucumbers.

Close the jars and leave to pickle for 1 week. At the end of the week they will be half sours, or half-pickled.

Pickled shiitake mushrooms

Makes 50ml (2fl oz)

30g (about 1oz) dried shiitake mushrooms

60g (2¼ oz) sugar

70ml (about 5 tablespoons) light soy sauce

70ml (about 5 tablespoons) cider vinegar

20g (about ¾oz) piece of fresh root ginger, peeled

Steep the shiitakes in boiling water until softened, about 3–5 hours. Lift the shiitakes from the steeping liquid (reserve the liquid), discard the stalks and cut the caps into 3mm (⅛ inch) slices.

Strain and reserve 50ml (2fl oz) of the steeping liquid and pour into a saucepan.

Add the mushroom caps, sugar, soy sauce, cider vinegar and ginger. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, then remove from the heat and leave to cool. Strain into a sterilized jar, discarding the ginger, seal and leave for 1 week to pickle before use.

Umami cheeseburger

It is of course impossible to improve upon the simple perfection of the classic cheeseburger. There is, however, a Californian company in LA that comes close, and this is my take on their creation. There are a lot of ingredients, but I promise it’ll be worth it.

1 beef tomato

200g (7oz) Parmesan cheese, grated

4 tablespoons American mustard, French’s for preference

4 tablespoons tomato ketchup

4 tablespoons mayonnaise

4 tablespoons soy sauce

800g (1lb 12oz) burger mince, made with 80 per cent chuck steak, 10 per cent fat, 10 per cent bone marrow (see The patty)

40g (1½oz) fried chopped onion

40g (1½oz) chopped Pickled Shiitake Mushrooms

4 thin slices of Gentleman’s Relish, around 40g (1½oz)

4 thin slices of Ogleshield or Cheddar cheese

4 Burger Buns

4 leaves of Bibb (Butterhead) lettuce

smoked Maldon sea salt flakes and cracked black pepper

First make the oven-dried beef tomato: slice the tomato into rounds 1cm (½ inch) thick. Place on a baking tray and place in a preheated oven at 110°C (225°F), Gas Mark ¼, for a minimum of 4 hours to dry out, turning halfway.

Next, make some Parmesan tuiles: take a nonstick baking sheet and divide the grated Parmesan into 4 equal-sized round piles. Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F), Gas Mark 4 for about 5 minutes until the cheese has melted and is golden. Remove and leave to cool on the sheet.

Mix together the mustard, ketchup, mayo and soy sauce to make your umami sauce.

Mix the minced chuck steak into the fat and bone marrow and form 4 loose patties. Lightly season the burger patties with smoked Maldon sea salt flakes and cracked black pepper, then grill until charred and cooked medium-rare.

While hot, top with the fried onion, Pickled Mushrooms and Gentleman’s Relish, followed by a thin slice of Ogleshield or Cheddar (the residual heat will melt the cheese).

Split and toast the Burger Buns. Spread both sides of the toasted buns with the umami sauce, then place a lettuce leaf and some dried tomato slices on the base. Transfer a stacked patty on top, followed by a Parmesan tuile and finally the bun top.

Gentleman’s relish

Gentleman’s relish is a Victorian spiced anchovy butter often eaten on toast by the well-to-do as a post-dinner savoury. It’s also good to have on hand for serving with a steak, or in fact with any grilled meat. Use the very best-quality anchovies – Spanish if possible – and don’t worry, they won’t make your steak taste fishy; anchovies are full of umami, which helps to amplify the meatiness of the steak.

Makes 450g (1lb)

125g (4½oz) anchovy fillets in oil

250g (9oz) unsalted butter, chopped

small pinch of cayenne pepper

small pinch of ground nutmeg

small pinch of freshly ground black pepper

small pinch of ground cinnamon

25ml (1fl oz) lemon juice

25ml (1fl oz) Worcestershire sauce

25ml (1fl oz) water

Put all the ingredients into a blender and blend until smooth.

The mixture can then be beaten until fluffy and piped through a piping bag if using immediately, or it can be rolled into a log, wrapped in clingfilm and chilled until needed. Keep in the fridge for up to 1 week, or freeze.

When required, just cut a thick slice, remove the clingfilm and serve on top of your steak or burger.

Kimchi

Koreans are fanatical about kimchi: they have more than 200 kinds. For centuries they have believed that eating kimchi reduces cholesterol, promotes brain health and protects against obesity, cancer, digestive and colorectal disease. They believe it has anti-ageing properties, that it’s good for your skin and immune system, and that it’s antioxidative and probiotic. In short, Koreans believe kimchi is the elixir of life. It turns out they might be right, as Western science is beginning to confirm what they have long known: fermented foods are incredibly good for you, and as luck would have it they are also extremely tasty.

Makes approximately 2 x 1 litre (1¾ pint) jars

2 heads of Chinese leaf cabbage, outer leaves discarded

4 teaspoons Maldon sea salt flakes

4 teaspoons caster sugar

50g (1¾oz) garlic cloves, grated

50g (1¾oz) piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and grated

50g (1¾oz) gochugaru (Korean red pepper powder or flakes)

50g (1¾oz) anchovy fillets in oil

50ml (1¾fl oz) light soy sauce

50g (1¾oz) salted shrimp, from a jar

4 teaspoons rice flour

50ml (2fl oz) water

100g (3½oz) spring onions, cut into 2cm (¾ inch) pieces

100g (3½oz) daikon, cut in julienne strips

100g (3½oz) carrots, cut in julienne strips

Cut the root off each of the Chinese leaf cabbages, but ensure they are in sections joined together, then cut them in half lengthways. Toss the cabbage leaves in a bowl with the sea salt and sugar, taking care to season in between every leaf, then leave overnight at room temperature.

The following day, rinse the leaves in cold water and gently squeeze dry.

Put the garlic, ginger, gochugaru, anchovies, soy sauce, shrimp, rice flour and water into a blender and blend until smooth. Remove from the blender and stir in the spring onions, daikon and carrots.

Layer the leaves with the paste mixture, making sure every part of every leaf is coated. Fold each half cabbage in 3 to make a parcel, then pack into airtight plastic containers and leave at room temperature for another 24 hours before chilling.

The kimchi will be tasty after 1 week and really zingy after a couple of weeks. Sealed, it will keep in the fridge for a few months, however, its character will change over time and after 1 month it will become funky and fizzy.

It can also be layered on to clingfilm, rolled into a neat sausage and sliced, if serving as a garnish.

Kimchi burger

Kimchi and beef go together like ham and eggs, so inevitably someone in Korea came up with the kimchi burger, and just as inevitably I came across it on the internet one evening and fell in love. I spent months developing my version – from the kimchi to the addition of braised beef and cheese, it’s the Marmite of burgers, either loved or loathed.

800g (1lb 12oz) burger mince, blend of your choice (see The patty)

4 Burger Buns

50ml (2fl oz) mustard mayonnaise (50:50 mix of mustard and mayonnaise)

4 leaves of Bibb (Butterhead) lettuce

4 large dessertspoons Kimchi

100g (3½oz) Braised Short Ribs, shredded

4 thin slices of Ogleshield or Cheddar cheese

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Blend together your choice of minced chuck steak, fat and bone marrow and form 4 loose patties. Season with salt and pepper.

Grill the patties until charred and cooked pink, or done.

Split and toast the buns directly over the hot side of the grill until browned, about 30 seconds.

Spread the mustard mayonnaise on the bottom half of each toasted bun. Add a lettuce leaf to each one, followed by a spoonful of Kimchi.

Top each grilled burger patty with some of the hot shredded Braised Short Ribs, top this with the sliced cheese and let it melt in the residual heat.

Stack a burger patty on top of the kimchi, followed by a toasted bun lid to finish.

Green chilli cheeseburgers

This started life as an ode to the famous Green Chilli Cheeseburger at the Bobcat Bite restaurant in Santa Fe, but as it developed I added more and more chillies. It might seem like a competitive attempt to burn your tastebuds into submission, but the combination of chillies provides complex flavour that can still be appreciated above the heat. Where chilli quantities are concerned, this recipe is merely a guide…

2–4 whole green chillies

2–4 teaspoons Adobo Chilli Sauce

4 tablespoons mayonnaise

800g (1lb 12oz) burger mince, blend of your choice (see The patty)

8 slices of Ogleshield or Cheddar cheese

4 large Burger Buns

4 leaves of Bibb (Butterhead) lettuce

2–4 tablespoons sliced pickled green jalapeños

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Grill the fresh chillies, or place them directly over a gas burner, turning occasionally, until charred and blistered all over. Transfer to a sheet of foil and wrap tightly. Set aside for 5 minutes, then remove from the foil and carefully peel off most of the skin. Discard the stems and seeds and roughly chop the chillies.

Combine the Adobo Chilli Sauce and mayonnaise in a small bowl and stir to combine. Set aside.

Blend together your choice of minced chuck steak, fat and bone marrow and form 4 loose patties. Season and pan-fry one side of the burger patties, then press the chopped fresh chillies into the raw side.

Flip the patties to fry the other side and top each patty with 2 slices of cheese.

Split and toast the buns directly over the hot side of the grill until browned, about 30 seconds.

Spread the base of each bun with the Adobo Chilli Sauce mayonnaise, then add the lettuce and the burger patties. Top the patties with pickled jalapeños, then close the buns and serve.

Adobo chilli sauce

Makes approximately 300ml (½ pint)

8 garlic cloves

5 jalapeno chillies, halved lengthways and deseeded

large bunch of coriander

large bunch of parsley

olive oil

Maldon sea salt flakes

Heat a frying pan over a high heat and char the garlic and chillies. Tip into a food processor or blender and add the herbs and a generous pinch of salt, then blitz. Slowly pour in enough olive oil to achieve a sauce-like consistency and continue to blitz. Taste and correct the seasoning if needed.

Store covered in the fridge in a sterilized container with a layer of olive oil on top.

Mustard fried onion burger

I came across mustard frying at In-N-Out Burger in Los Angeles and tried it out in London. It must be done on a griddle or a plancha, so it’s the one burger I don’t charcoal grill. If you ever make it to an In-N-Out, it’s called “Animal Style” and is off-menu, though everyone orders it.

200g (7oz) sliced onions

small knob of bone marrow

800g (1lb 12oz) burger mince, blend of your choice (see The patty)

100g (3½oz) American mustard, French’s for preference

4 leaves of Bibb (Butterhead) lettuce

4 Burger Buns, split and toasted

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

1 whole Half Sour (pickled cucumber)

On a griddle, a plancha or in a nonstick pan, fry the onions with the small knob of bone marrow until golden, then remove from the pan and reserve.

Blend together your choice of minced chuck steak, fat and bone marrow and form 4 loose patties. Season the burger patties with salt and pepper, then spread one side of each raw burger with the mustard.

Heat a nonstick pan without oil until smoking hot and fry the mustard side of each burger patty, then cover the other side of the patty with the fried onions and flip the burger over. Press down on the patty with a slice, pushing the underside hard into the onions so they stick to the patty and start to burn a little. Continue cooking until cooked pink or done, as you like them.

Place a lettuce leaf on each bun base and top with a burger patty and then the lid. Serve with extra mustard and a spear of Half Sour on the side.

Cheeseburger toastie

In 1900, when Louis’ Lunch of New Haven, Connecticut, started making “hamburger sandwiches”, there were no burger buns, so they used sliced white bread. In 1970 they broke free of constraint and added cheese. This is based on their sandwich…

4 x 150g (5½oz) burger patties, blend of your choice (see The patty), loosely formed

butter

8 slices of white bread

8 slices of Ogleshield or Cheddar cheese

1 red onion, peeled and sliced

4 ripe beef tomatoes, sliced

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Season the burger patties and fry them to your liking.

Butter the outside of the bread. Make sandwiches with bread on the base (butter side on the outside), followed by a slice of cheese, then a patty and a second slice of cheese. Top with sliced onion and tomato and finish the sandwich.

Pan-fry in the burger pan with the burger drippings until golden (you may have to do this in batches unless you have an enormous frying pan).

Remove from the pan and eat, preferably without condiments.

Rearing

Great beef starts with the farmer, and one of the very first choices a farmer makes is between a native pure breed and a modern cross-breed that benefits from hybrid vigour (heterosis). This is the improved or increased function of any biological quality in a hybrid, as a result of mixing the genetic contributions of its parents. Examples of these enhanced traits include the fact that crosses grow faster than pure-bred cattle, thereby gaining weight more cheaply, and are also hardier than pure breeds. There’s nothing unethical about all of this, but in my admittedly unpopular opinion, anything that speeds up growth is at the expense of flavour. This initial choice in itself informs the next choice: whether to farm intensively or extensively.

Intensive farming

Over the last 50 years, farming has gone through massive industrialization, and as food has become cheaper, farmers have been forced into ever-higher levels of efficiency including the production of animals that grow at incredible rates. At one end of the spectrum, huge feed lots keep tightly packed animals on dry ground, feeding them grains to fatten them quickly, before slaughtering them on huge production lines. This method of production, which accounts for as much as 75 per cent of all cattle farmed in some countries, is known as intensive farming. As the name indicates, intensive farming is about getting an animal to slaughter weight as quickly and cheaply as possible. Modern intensive farming practices cater to a contemporary beef market that serves a demand for cheap meat at the expense of quality.

Intensively farmed animals are reared using unnatural commercial feed, antibiotics and, in some countries, growth hormones. The animals suffer a miserable life, and the way they are farmed has a negative impact upon the environment. These animals grow fat quickly, but it’s the wrong kind of fat. Intensively farmed animals are not free to exercise. They are stressed all the time and they are fed cheap, unnatural food that they are not suited to eating, in order to achieve maximum weight gain in the shortest time achievable. The aim is quantity over quality. The flavour of the meat, as well as the nutritional quality, suffers as a result.

Intensively farmed animals are also prone to disease, which is why they’re routinely dosed with antibiotics to keep them alive. The meat, in turn, is thought to cause antibiotic resistance in humans.

Extensive farming

It’s not all doom and gloom, however. A small band of ethical farmers ensure that cattle have enough space to roam free and eat a grass-fed diet, and they are taken short distances to small local abattoirs for slaughter. It takes much longer to rear animals this way and consequently it costs more, but on the plus side, meat raised this way tastes completely different to that which is raised intensively.

This slower and more expensive process allows cattle access to pasture or forage, space to move around and social interaction (yes, cattle benefit from this), and they consequently live a much happier life.

Extensively farmed animals graze freely for the majority of their lifetime in pastures that are plentiful with grasses, clover, shrubs, wild plants and insects, in an ecosystem that’s biologically natural and untreated. The character of the pastures changes seasonally, and animals are rotated between different pastures, creating a very distinctive flavour profile in the meat, while also recycling nutrients and sequestering carbon in the soil (see Beef & the environment). Natural habitats provide sanitary conditions, less stress on animals and natural resistance to disease. Good meat comes from animals that have been raised this way, without hormones, or unnecessary antibiotics. In extensive farming, antibiotics are not part of a feeding protocol; they are used only when an animal is sick, and that animal is then separated from the herd until recovered.

Good animal husbandry and welfare are imperative to producing good beef: happy livestock that is well looked after will taste better. The quality of the meat will be compromised when welfare is neglected, and, unsurprisingly, the best meat will come from those farmers who value its importance. Look for native breeds that have been grown slowly and naturally, fed without the aid of hormones and not pumped full of grain to fuel fast growth. It is only through buying extensively farmed rare-breed meat that extensive farming can grow and these passionate farmers can continue their great work. Recently the intensively farmed market has declined as increasingly savvy shoppers seek assurances about where their meat comes from: perhaps the tide is turning.

Veal

There are, of course, good reasons to eat veal: its lightness, freshness, delicacy and subtlety. These are the hallmarks of young meat, which has its delicious place in the gastronomic world. And times have changed when it comes to veal production. The vilified system of housing veal calves in crates so small they couldn’t even turn around was outlawed in the UK in 1990.

Modern veal is mostly called rose veal. It is made from young animals up to about eight months old, raised on some beef feed and then pasture in the summer months. Eating rose veal is actually helping to solve the problem that dairy farmers have in finding something to do with the male calves created by their industry.

Dairy cows are kept constantly pregnant to feed our milk and cheese habit, but while female calves can go on to replace their mothers in the dairy system, there is no market for the male calves of dairy breeds, which aren’t considered good for beef. The result is that they don’t fetch enough for the farmer to break even on feed and care costs.

Male dairy calves are therefore slaughtered at 24–48 hours old. A small band of committed farmers are rehabilitating the pale, delicate meat which has a long culinary tradition; eating rose veal is utilizing those calves and solving a problem.

In addition, a small number of farmers continue to feed some male calves on a “nurse cow”, usually a retired dairy cow, rather than the actual mother. They are fed on a diet of milk along with barley straw for roughage which allows their guts to develop properly. The result is veal that is closer to the traditional, old-fashioned milk-fed veal: delicate and sweet in flavour, and pale in colour, but without any of the welfare issues.

The organization Compassion in World Farming would like us to return to the dual-purpose (good for both beef and dairy) cattle of old, with dairy cows that are impregnated with semen from beef breeds. The resultant dual-purpose offspring could then be reared for beef, while the mother goes back into dairy production. This sounds like a brilliant solution to an uncomfortable issue.

Older beef

Real beef, the kind of beef upon which Britain built its beefy reputation, is pretty unusual in today’s profit-driven farming. All meat takes time to develop flavour, but our food industry, driven by economic and political forces, slaughters animals far too early in their natural lifespan. It is a crime against taste – particularly when it comes to beef. Given that cattle might naturally live for up to 20 years, you can see what a truncated life they lead. There is an absolute correlation between age and flavour, but, sadly, few farmers can possibly afford to keep their animals for longer than a couple of years. What we are actually buying and eating is more akin to veal than beef, which becomes glaringly apparent if you’ve ever been lucky enough to eat beef from an older animal. There are a few Highland cattle slaughtered at over three years old, and occasionally as old as ten years, and, of course, there is the Basque Cider House Steak and the Galician bullock beef of Spain. Look out for beef from these older animals – if you know a great butcher, you might see it. It really is an absolute revelation.

Basque cider house steak

Basque Cider House Steak (or Basque import beef) comes from dairy cows that have reached the end of their useful milking life at about four years and are then given up to four more years’ retirement, to improve the meat quality and develop fat. The Basque Country has a long tradition of eating dairy steak in their cider house eateries. The tradition was for the farmers to bring the meat to the cider house in exchange for cider; hence the name Basque Cider House Steak. The beef has the much sought-after heavy marbling that gives flavour and succulence to the meat, as well as that naturally developed flavour from the older animal. Despite being known as Basque, however, this beef is from cows that were raised in countries such as Germany, Austria, Poland or even Ireland. The carcasses are sent to the Basque Country, which until recently was the only market for this relatively expensive steak, and from there are imported into Britain for further ageing, as the Spanish tend not to hang meat for more than three weeks.

It’s actually a brilliant idea. All meat takes time to develop flavour, and intensive farmers, driven by economical and political forces, slaughter animals far too early in their natural lifespan. If you think about it, these dairy cows have lived a productive life, they were not hurried to a killing weight and they grew up at a natural pace, developing flavour and fat before being “put out to pasture”. No beef farmer could possibly afford to keep his or her animals for so long, and if the grass the cow grazes on during its retirement is of good quality, and if the animal is unstressed at the time of slaughter and then is properly hung and butchered, it can, and in fact does, taste superb. It really is a beautiful solution to another difficult question: what to do with old dairy cattle when their milk dries up.

Galician bullock beef

There has been some confusion between Basque beef and Galician beef, but Galician beef is never from dairy herds. Much of the Galician beef comes from the Galician Blond cows, which have veal as a byproduct, but the prized meat comes from old bullocks, which for obvious reasons would struggle to be dairy cattle. Known as Buey, it is regarded as the best beef from the Galician Blond breed and it’s very hard to source. Before tractors the bullocks were used as working animals on the farm. Keeping a castrated bull for 15 years is very expensive, and now there’s little reason to do so, except as a pet. The fat is yellow rather than white, from the beta-carotene in the pastures the bullocks graze on. Because they are slow-growing, the fat speckles the meat, unlike the big globules of fat you get from corn-fed animals. Some of the best steak in the world comes from these beasts, because of the amount of time they’ve had to develop flavour. And, of course, it does raise the question: what might a similarly reared Longhorn or Aberdeen Angus taste like? At the time of writing there are some attempts to find out, as a Yorkshire farmer and a Spanish beef importer are working together to answer this very question. Exciting times.

West African suya

Beef satay

Charcoal-grilled bone marrow with horseradish snow & toast

Charcoal-grilled bone marrow with onions & toast

Charcoal-grilled honeycomb tripe

Calves’ liver & onions

Mashed potatoes

Basic beef broth

Master vegetable broth

Garlic butter

Wild garlic butter

Madeira gravy & some of its possibilities

Mustard gravy

Bone marrow gravy

Pepper sauce

Truffle sauce

Onion gravy

Tripe laab style

Kalbi ribs

Kimchi dogs

Kimchi kraut

Beet kraut

Grilled flanken cut short ribs

Shaved vegetable & herb slaw

Charcoal grilled calf’s heart

Charcoal roasted ox

Grilled ox heart buns with pickled walnuts

Pickled walnuts

Feed

West African suya

A spicy West African variant of the shish kebab, introduced to the Hausa people of Cameroon by Arabic traders. Suya kebabs are usually made using short skewers of deeply seasoned meat. The thinly sliced meat is then barbecued and is commonly seen as part of street food menus.

1 small onion

4 garlic cloves

1 thumb-sized piece of fresh root ginger

1 green chilli

1 green pepper

1 spring onion

1 tablespoon powdered kuli-kuli

2 tablespoons suya pepper mix

1 tablespoon Maldon sea salt flakes

1kg (2lb 4oz) rump steak, trimmed

16 wooden skewers, soaked in water

For the salad

¼ red cabbage

¼ white cabbage

4 ripe tomatoes

1 cucumber

1 red onion

2 lemons, 1 juiced, 1 cut into wedges

3–4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

To make the marinade, peel and roughly chop the onion, garlic and ginger. Trim and deseed the chilli and green pepper, then roughly chop. Trim and roughly chop the spring onion. Place all these in a blender and blend until smooth, then add the kuli-kuli powder, suya pepper mix and salt and blend again to combine.

Thinly slice the beef and flatten the slices with the flat side of a knife. Coat the beef in the marinade, then cover and pop into the fridge to marinate for a couple of hours. Thread 4 slices of beef on to each soaked skewer.

To make the salad, trim and finely shred the cabbages, finely slice the tomatoes and cucumber, and peel and finely slice the onion. Combine all the vegetables in a large bowl, adding a good squeeze of lemon juice, the extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of salt and pepper.

Heat a charcoal grill and, when the coals are smouldering and ash-white, cook the beef skewers, turning regularly until golden. Serve with the salad, with the lemon wedges for squeezing over.

Kuli-kuli and suya pepper mix are available in African shops, some larger supermarkets or online. Powdered kuli-kuli can be substituted with ground peanuts.

Beef satay

One of the world’s fifty most delicious beef preparations, according to CNN, and claimed by more than one South East Asian country as its own, satay’s origins probably lie on the island of Java in Indonesia, despite being common throughout the region.

1 lime

1 tablespoon kecap manis

1 teaspoon crushed garlic

1 teaspoon grated fresh root ginger

1 teaspoon grated fresh root turmeric

½ teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

600g (1lb 5oz) rib-eye steak

For the sauce

250ml (9fl oz) coconut water

100g (3½oz) unsalted natural peanut butter

100ml (3½fl oz) kecap manis

50ml (2fl oz) sriracha sauce

2 teaspoons crushed garlic

1 teaspoon grated fresh root ginger

finely grated zest and juice of 1 unwaxed lime

For the garnish

1 small cucumber

1 large banana shallot

½ small bunch of coriander, leaves picked

50ml (2fl oz) rice vinegar

1 teaspoon caster sugar

pinch of Maldon sea salt flakes

8 wooden or bamboo skewers, soaked in water

Finely grate the zest from the lime and combine in a bowl with the lime juice, kecap manis, garlic, ginger, turmeric, coriander, cumin and pepper. Cut the steak across the grain into thin strips and add to this marinade. Toss to coat, cover and refrigerate overnight.

Mix all the sauce ingredients together in a small pan and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook for 1 minute, then remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Cut the cucumber in half lengthways, then slice each half into thin slices and tip into a bowl. Cut the shallot lengthways into thin slices and add to the cucumber with the coriander leaves, vinegar, sugar and salt.

Remove the steak from the marinade and thread on to wooden or bamboo skewers, allowing 1 strip of beef per skewer (see photo).

Cook the satays either on a preheated barbecue or on a hot, ridged griddle pan for 2–3 minutes per side, turning once, until medium.

Serve the satays with the sauce and the cucumber and shallot garnish on the side.

Charcoal-grilled bone marrow with horseradish snow & toast

You often hear the refrain that “fat is flavour”, and this simple but delicious garnish helps leaner cuts of grilled steak alongby providing a little tasty fat in the form of bone marrow. If fillet is your thing – and who am I to judge – then this will make it all the better.

8 x 5cm (2 inch) cut bone marrow shafts

sourdough loaf, sliced

1 small piece of fresh horseradish, peeled

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Lightly season the cut sides of the bones and grill cut side down, over charcoal if possible, for 3 minutes.

Grill the sourdough.

Using a fine grater, grate fresh horseradish over the top of the split bone marrow shafts and serve with the sourdough toast.

Charcoal-grilled bone marrow with onions & toast

Another iteration of grilled bone marrow, this time using split marrow shafts and slow-cooked, sweet confit of onion.

200g (7oz) Onion Confit (5 x recipe)

4 x 10cm (4 inch) bone marrow shafts, split lengthways (ask your butcher to split them for you)

sourdough loaf, sliced

smoked Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Prepare the Onion Confit as in recipe, adding 2 teaspoons of bone marrow at the start. Cook over a low heat for 1 hour, stirring constantly, until the onions are honey-coloured, sweet and soft.

Lightly season the split sides of the bones and grill cut side down, over charcoal if possible, for 3 minutes.

Grill the sourdough.

Top the grilled sides of the bones with the hot onions and serve with the sourdough toast.

Charcoal-grilled honeycomb tripe

Tripe is tricky, and is either loved or loathed. If you don’t like this preparation you are in the latter camp, since it’s as vanilla as tripe is ever likely to get.

400g (14oz) honeycomb tripe

800ml (1½ pints) Basic Beef Broth

200g (7oz) Garlic Butter

100g (3½oz) fresh breadcrumbs

bamboo skewers, soaked in water

For the citrus dressing

finely grated zest of 1 small unwaxed orange

finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon

finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lime

100g (3½oz) Garlic Butter, melted

Cut the honeycomb tripe into 4cm (1½ inch) square pieces and leave under running cold water for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 140°C (275°F), Gas Mark 1.

Place the tripe in a cocotte dish (or small casserole) and cover with the beef broth and the lid, then braise in the preheated oven for 2 hours, or until tender.

Drain the tripe and place in a bowl. While it’s still hot, add half the Garlic Butter and toss to combine, making sure to coat every piece of tripe in the butter. Finally, coat each piece generously with breadcrumbs.

Thread the tripe on to bamboo skewers, about 3–4 pieces per skewer, and charcoal-grill over a high heat, making sure the breadcrumbs are well scorched.

Mix all the ingredients for the citrus dressing together, and serve in a bowl on the side.

Calves’ liver & onions

Liver and onions is proper English café fare, but is sometimes served in posh restaurants with the ingredients refined somewhat. This is my version, which sits bang in between greasy spoon and posh nosh.

600g (1lb 5oz) calves’ liver, cut into 1cm (½ inch) slices

200ml (7fl oz) milk

8 smoked streaky bacon rashers

8 sage leaves

3 onions, peeled, halved lengthways, then cut lengthways into 5mm (¼ inch) slices

25g (1oz) butter or dripping

100g (3½oz) plain flour seasoned with salt and pepper

600g (1lb 5oz) Mashed Potatoes

Madeira Gravy, to serve

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Soak the liver in the milk for 20 minutes.

While the liver is soaking, cook the bacon and sage leaves in a large nonstick frying pan over a medium heat, turning over occasionally, until crispy. Transfer the bacon and sage to kitchen paper to drain. Set aside half the fat from the pan.

Season the onions and gently cook them in the bacon fat remaining in the pan, with the butter or dripping, over a medium heat, stirring frequently, until golden brown, around 15 minutes. Remove from the pan and set aside.

Drain the liver and pat dry, discarding the milk. Dredge the liver in the seasoned flour, shaking off any excess.

Add the reserved bacon fat to the frying pan and place over a medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the pieces of liver and fry, turning them over once, until browned but still pink inside, about 4 minutes total.

Serve the liver topped with the onions and bacon, Mashed Potatoes and Madeira Gravy on the side.

Mashed potatoes

Mash and gravy is one of those food marriages that satisfies the soul – great with steak or as part of a roast dinner, and virtually essential with many of the braised dishes in this book.

Serves 4

500g (1lb 2oz) potatoes for mashing, peeled and quartered

125g (4½oz) unsalted butter

125ml (4½fl oz) double cream

Maldon sea salt flakes

Place the potatoes in cold salted water and bring to the boil. Reduce to a gentle boil for 20 minutes, or until cooked through. Remove the potatoes from the water and air-dry in a colander. While the potatoes are still hot, pass them through a potato ricer or vegetable mouli.

Put the butter and the cream into a pan and simmer until reduced by half, then fold in the mashed potato and season to taste.

Serve in a deep dish, ideally with Madeira Gravy poured over.

Basic beef broth

I was taught to use three basic stocks as the base for sauces – veal, chicken and fish – but I’ve always had a nagging doubt: if making a sauce for pork or beef, why would you use any other stock than that made from the bones of the meat you are cooking? This is my basic broth (call it stock if it pleases you), and the foundation of many of these recipes. I’ve shoehorned in as many sources of umami as I can and consequently it’s not a subtle stock, but then beef can take it.

Makes about 6 litres (10½ pints)

1kg (2lb 4oz) beef bones

1 small beef shank

1 oxtail

2 onions, peeled and halved

2 large carrots, split

2 celery sticks

2 large dried shiitake mushrooms

2 dried porcini mushrooms (20g/¾oz)

1 garlic bulb, broken into cloves but not peeled

1 faggot of herbs (thyme, bay, rosemary and parsley)

1 spice bag (20 fennel seeds, 20 black peppercorns, 1 star anise)

250ml (9fl oz) Madeira

250ml (9fl oz) soy sauce

5 litres (9 pints) water

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas Mark 6 and lightly roast the bones, beef shank and oxtail for about 30 minutes. Put the onions cut side down into a dry pan over a high heat and leave until very dark brown, almost burnt.

Place all the ingredients in a very large pan and bring to a gentle simmer. If you don’t have a pan large enough to hold the full quantity, it can be divided between 2 pans.

Skim off any scum that rises to the surface and cook for 6 hours, skimming every 30 minutes or so. The trick here is to simmer at a bare roll and skim any impurities regularly for a clean, clear master broth.

Without moving the pan, turn off the heat and gently ladle the broth out of the pan through a very fine sieve, taking care not to disturb the base too much.

Cool and reserve until needed. Once chilled, this broth can be frozen in 500ml (18fl oz) or 1 litre (1¾ pint) batches.

For when something lighter than a beef broth is needed, use my Master Vegetable Broth which has bags of flavour.

Master vegetable broth

This broth can be thickened with a little potato flour, rice flour and grated Twineham Grange vegetarian cheese, to give body to soups or stews.

Makes about 6 litres (10½ pints)

4 onions, peeled and halved

4 garlic bulbs, split horizontally

4 fennel bulbs, halved

4 large carrots, split lengthways

4 large beetroot, peeled and split lengthways

4 celery sticks

4 leeks, split lengthways

200g (7oz) dried shiitake mushrooms

200g (7oz) dried porcini mushrooms

100g (3½oz) miso paste

4 chillies, split lengthways and deseeded

1 faggot of herbs (thyme, bay, rosemary and parsley)

1 spice bag (20 fennel seeds, 20 black peppercorns, 1 star anise, 1 liquorice stick, 1 cinnamon stick)

250ml (9fl oz) Madeira

250ml (9fl oz) soy sauce

250ml (9fl oz) balsamic vinegar

5 litres (9 pints) water

Put the onions and garlic cut side down into a dry pan over a high heat and leave until very dark brown, almost burnt.

Place all the ingredients in a large pan and bring to a gentle simmer. Skim off any scum, then cook for 2 hours, skimming every 30 minutes or so. The trick here is to simmer at a bare roll and skim any impurities regularly for a clean, clear broth.

Without moving the pan, turn off the heat and gently ladle the broth out of the pan through a very fine sieve, taking care not to disturb the base too much. Cool the broth and reserve until needed. Once chilled, this broth can be frozen in 500ml (18fl oz) or 1 litre (1¾ pint) batches.

Garlic butter

Great with grilled meat, shellfish or for brushing on bread, garlic butter at its most simple is just that – garlic and butter – but it can include anchovies, hazelnuts, herbs, spices, alcohol and even cheese. This is the version that I commonly use.

Makes 300g (10½oz)

20g (¾oz) garlic, finely chopped (8–10 cloves)

250g (9oz) salted butter, chopped

2 teaspoons Pernod

1 large banana shallot, finely chopped

½ bunch of flat leaf parsley, leaves picked and chopped

freshly ground black pepper

Blend the garlic with the butter, Pernod and black pepper.

Fold in the chopped shallot and parsley, adjust the seasoning, and serve on top of a freshly grilled hot steak, allowing the butter to melt all over.

Or roll the butter into a sausage shape and chill to firm up. Slice into discs and serve on top of the steak.

Wild garlic butter

When wild garlic is abundant in spring, replace the garlic in the above recipe with double the quantity (40g/1½oz) of wild garlic, for a fantastically vibrant seasonal variation.

Makes 300g (10½oz)

Madeira gravy & some of its possibilities

Madeira is for me the king of cooking wines, its rich heady flavour going particularly well with beef. What makes Madeira wine unique is the estufagem ageing/heating process, meant to duplicate the effect of a long sea voyage through tropical climates on wine barrels. In the production of Madeira it occurs while the wine is in cask, with the resulting wine darkening and acquiring that rich character. Outside of Madeira wine this is seen as a problem, but much of the characteristic flavour of Madeira is due to this practice. All these gravies can be frozen in small batches, once made, for future use.

60g (2¼oz) chopped shallots

100g (3½oz) butter

250ml (9fl oz) Madeira

2 litres (3½ pints) Basic Beef Broth

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Cook the shallots in 20g (¾oz) of the butter until soft, then add the Madeira and cook until reduced to a glaze.

Add the Basic Beef Broth and continue simmering until reduced by three-quarters.

Whisk in the rest of the butter and season to taste.

Mustard gravy

100g (3½oz) English mustard

600ml (1 pint) Madeira Gravy

Whisk the mustard into the finished Madeira Gravy.

Bone marrow gravy

100g (3½oz) bone marrow, chopped

600ml (20fl oz) Madeira Gravy

Stir the bone marrow into the finished Madeira Gravy.

Pepper sauce

250ml (9fl oz) double cream

600ml (1 pint) Mustard Gravy

100g (3½oz) jarred green peppercorns, with their brine

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Add the double cream to the Mustard Gravy and bring to a gentle simmer. Stir in the green peppercorns with their brine, and season to taste with plenty of pepper.

Truffle sauce

as many black truffles as your bank balance will allow

600ml (1 pint) Madeira Gravy

Shave or grate fresh black truffle into the Madeira Gravy and stir. Serve in a sauceboat, with a mountain of extra truffle shaved over the top – now is not the time for skimping.

Onion gravy

25g (1oz) butter

8 large onions, peeled, halved and cut into long slices

600ml (1 pint) Mustard Gravy

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the butter in a large heavy-based saucepan and add the sliced onions. Reduce the heat to low and leave the onions to cook gently for about 30 minutes, checking and stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. The onions should be soft and translucent, and slowly caramelizing to a dark golden brown.

Stir in the Mustard Gravy, season to taste and serve.

Tripe laab style

Laab is the national dish of Laos, but it has also migrated to Isan, an area of Thailand where many people are of Laotian descent. It is deliciously hot, spicy and zingy.

2 small banana shallots, thinly sliced lengthways

½ bunch (about 15g/½oz) of mint, leaves picked, very roughly chopped

250g (9oz) fillet steak

250g (9oz) cooked tripe, thinly sliced (see Charcoal-grilled Honeycomb Tripe)

2 red bird’s-eye chillies, thinly sliced, plus extra to serve

½ teaspoon chilli flakes

20g (¾oz) Thai toasted rice powder

a few kaffir lime leaves, finely shredded

½ bunch of spring onions, thinly sliced

½ bunch (about 15g/½oz) of coriander, coarsely chopped

½ cucumber, thinly sliced, to serve

1 head of butter lettuce, to serve

For the dressing

finely grated zest and juice of 2 unwaxed limes, plus extra juice to serve

1 tablespoon fish sauce (such as nam pla or nuoc nam), plus extra to serve

20g (¾oz) palm sugar

First make the dressing: whisk the lime zest and juice, fish sauce and palm sugar in a small bowl. Pour half this dressing into a small plastic container and set aside.

To the remaining dressing add the sliced shallots, half the chopped mint and the beef. Toss to combine, and leave to marinate for a couple of hours.

Remove the beef from the marinade and cook on a charcoal grill, turning regularly, for 8 minutes, or until medium-rare. Remove and allow to stand for 10 minutes, then thinly slice. Place the beef in a large bowl and add the tripe, fresh and dried chillies, toasted rice powder, shredded kaffir lime leaves, spring onions, coriander and remaining mint.

Adjust the seasoning with extra fish sauce and lime juice, and serve with the reserved dressing, cucumber, extra chillies and the lettuce leaves.

Ready-made toasted rice powder is available in Asian food stores, but if you can’t find it you can make it at home in a skillet. Place a skillet over a medium-low heat, then add Thai sticky rice grains, stirring and shaking the pan every few seconds to make sure the grains are evenly toasted. After 10 minutes or so, the grains will turn golden brown. Remove the skillet from the heat and let the rice cool completely, then grind it in a mortar or a coffee grinder, 2 tablespoons at a time, until a fine powder is achieved.

Kalbi ribs

Also known as galbi, this cut is traditionally filleted away from the bone into a flat, steak-like cut. Another version is the less traditional LA cut (pictured), which is more akin to flanken ribs.

2kg (4lb 8oz) kalbi cut rib meat, flattened out

100g (3½oz) light muscovado sugar

1 small Asian pear, peeled and grated

1 small onion, peeled and grated

1 garlic bulb, cloves crushed

250ml (9fl oz) light soy sauce

125ml (4fl oz) water

60ml (4 tablespoons) mirin

20ml (¾fl oz) dark sesame oil

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

To serve

Kimchi

cooked sticky rice

4 spring onions, diagonally sliced

Toss the beef in the brown sugar until evenly coated, then toss with all the remaining ingredients. Place in an airtight container and refrigerate overnight.

Light a charcoal grill and allow the flames to burn down and the coals to become ash white.

Drain any excess marinade from the beef, then grill the ribs for 3 minutes on each side, or until cooked to your liking.

Serve with Kimchi, sticky rice and the sping onions.

Kimchi dogs

On a research trip to New York with the Hawksmoor team we visited a cocktail bar called Please Don’t Tell, where you have to enter through a phone box. One of the bar snacks was a small kimchi hotdog that was so knock-your-socks-off delicious that it’s stuck in my mind. This is my ode to that memory.

50g (1¾oz) beef dripping

200g (7oz) Kimchi, drained

8 hot dog buns, split

100ml (3½fl oz) mayonnaise

8 Franks, or beef hot dogs, scored in a criss-cross fashion

100g (3½oz) Ogleshield or Cheddar cheese, grated

200g (7oz) Kimchi Kraut

sriracha sauce, for drizzling

1 bunch (about 30g/1oz) of coriander, leaves picked, to serve

Light a charcoal grill and allow the charcoal to burn down to ash white.

Heat the beef dripping in a frying pan, add the kimchi and fry until coloured all over, about 3 minutes.

Brush the insides of the split hot dog buns with dripping and grill, cut sides down, until crisp. Turn and grill the other side. Spread the cut sides with mayonnaise.

Grill the hot dogs until charred all over, about 3 minutes. Tuck the fried kimchi into the buns with the grilled hot dogs and grated cheese.

Top with the Kimchi Kraut, drizzle a little sriracha on top and serve sprinkled with the coriander leaves.

Kimchi kraut

It’s not unreasonable to think that the early coleslaws were actually fermented krauts made sour by bacteria and preserved. This kimchi kraut is in that spirit: a kind of hybrid kraut-slaw that’s great with grilled meats or in sandwiches.

Makes approximately 1kg (2lb 4oz)

1 small white cabbage

1 bunch of spring onions

2cm (¾ inch) piece of fresh root ginger

3 garlic cloves

1 carrot

1 tablespoon Maldon sea salt flakes

1 teaspoon gochugaru (Korean red pepper powder or flakes)

Shred the cabbage and spring onions very finely and put into a bowl. Grate the ginger, garlic and carrots and add to the bowl with the salt and red pepper powder and toss everything together. Massage the vegetables with strong hands until moist, to make the brine. Salt pulls water out of the vegetables to create an environment where the good bacteria (mainly lactobacillus) can grow and proliferate and the bad bacteria die off.

Pack the mixture into a sterilized Kilner jar, periodically pressing it down tightly with a large spoon so that the brine rises above the top of the mixture and no air pockets remain. Be sure to leave at least 3cm (1¼ inches) of space between the top of the cabbage and the top of the jar. Pour any brine left in your mixing bowl into the jar, and scrape in any loose bits stuck to the sides of the bowl or to the sides of the jar.

Place a sterilized glass weight on top inside the jar, then seal the jar. Place in a cool dark place for 1 week to ferment, making sure the kraut remains covered with liquid. If mould appears, remove it and wash the glass weight.

The longer you ferment it, the greater the number and variety of beneficial bacteria that can be produced. If it smells and tastes good, it has successfully fermented and can be kept preserved in your refrigerator for up to 1 year.

Beet kraut

Makes approximately 1kg (2lb 4oz)

1 head of red cabbage

1 large beetroot

20g (¾oz) fine sea salt

Shred the cabbage finely and grate the beetroot. Mix them thoroughly in a bowl with the salt, then massage with your hands until the brine starts to be released, at least 5 minutes.

Pack very tightly indeed into a sterilized Kilner jar, pressing it down until the liquid starts to appear. Place a glass weight on top and seal the jar.

Place in a cool dark place for 1 week to ferment, making sure the kraut remains covered with liquid. If mould appears, remove it and wash the glass weight.

After the week is up, place the jar in the refrigerator and keep for a further 3 weeks. It should now be ready to eat either as it is or – particularly delicious – mixed with a little chopped preserved lemon and natural yogurt.

Grilled flanken cut short ribs

Flanken cut ribs are cut in sections across the bone. Each piece has three or four pieces of bone, with a generous portion of meat around them. They can be tough, so they must be marinated, and cooked pink or low and slow until falling off the bone.

2kg (4lb 8oz) flanken cut short ribs, cut 1cm (½ inch) thick

150ml (¼ pint) cold black coffee

150ml (¼ pint) sweet soy sauce

150ml (¼ pint) Madeira

Maldon sea salt flakes

Put the ribs into a dish. Combine the liquids and pour over the ribs, then refrigerate for 4 hours, turning them over halfway through.

Light the barbecue and allow it to burn down to a smoulder.

Drain the ribs, season with salt, then grill slowly for several minutes each side, or until caramelized all over.

Remove from the grill and serve as a starter, with Shaved Vegetable & Herb Slaw, or even as a meaty side dish.

Shaved vegetable & herb slaw

A fresh vegetable slaw that’s great with grilled steaks or as a sandwich filler. Purple asparagus is becoming more and more common and is often eaten raw – it’s sweeter than green asparagus and tastes of peas – to me, a good thing.

Serves 4

40g (1½oz) pea shoots

60g (2¼oz) baby carrots, shaved

60g (2¼oz) baby fennel, shaved

60g (2¼oz) purple asparagus, shaved

1 bunch of spring onions, shaved

1 bunch (about 30g/1oz) each of mint, flat leaf parsley and coriander, leaves picked

½ teaspoon fennel seeds, toasted

½ teaspoon Maldon sea salt flakes

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the dressing

50ml (2fl oz) organic cider vinegar

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

15g (½oz) caster sugar

juice and finely grated zest of ½ unwaxed lemon

Toss the pea shoots and all the shaved vegetables and herbs together.

About 10 minutes before serving, whisk the dressing ingredients together. Add the dressing to the vegetables with the toasted fennel seeds, season and toss together.

Charcoal grilled calf’s heart

“Wash a large beast’s heart clean and cut off the deaf ears, and stuff it with forcemeat… Lay a caul of veal… over the top to keep in the stuffing. Roast it either in a cradle spit or hanging one, it will take an hour and a half before a good fire; baste it with red wine. When roasted take the wine out of the dripping pan and skim off the fat and add a glass more of wine. When it is hot put in some lumps of redcurrant jelly and pour it in the dish. Serve it up and send in redcurrant jelly cut in slices on a saucer.” From “To make a Mock Hare of a Beast’s Heart” by Elizabeth Raffald, The Experienced English Housekeeper (1769).

1 calf’s heart (you can ask your butcher to prepare it if you’re squeamish)

50ml (2fl oz) good red wine or sherry vinegar

1 garlic clove, crushed

a few thyme sprigs

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

small handful of watercress, to serve

freshly grated horseradish, to serve

For the pickled carrrots

150ml (¼ pint) water

150ml (¼ pint) cider vinegar

70g (2½oz) caster sugar

1 teaspoon Maldon sea salt flakes

4 heritage carrots, finely sliced

First of all prepare the heart. Trim away the large blood vessels as well as the two large flaps from the top of the heart, as well as any obviously sinewy parts. This should leave the heart looking neat, with 2 cavities within. Cut it open, lay it out flat and cut it into 5cm (2 inch) squares, 5mm (¼ inch) thick. Anything thicker, such as the ventricles, will need to be sliced horizontally.

Wash the pieces of heart and toss them into a bowl along with the vinegar, salt and pepper, garlic and thyme, making sure everything gets coated well. Cover and marinate for 24 hours.

To make the picked carrots, put the water, cider vinegar, sugar and salt into a bowl, add the sliced carrots and toss to coat. Leave to pickle for 20 minutes.

To cook the meat, you need a hot barbecue. Place the pieces of heart on the barbecue and turn after 2–3 minutes, then cook for the same time on the other side.

Serve thinly sliced, with the pickled carrots, watercress, freshly grated horseradish and ground black pepper.

Charcoal roasted ox

OK, so since this requires specialist equipment, several hours’ preparation and 24 hours’ cooking, I realize it’s unlikely you will cook this particular recipe, and in truth it’s a tad beyond even me, but luckily I know a man for whom this is just another day at the office. When I approached Charlie Carroll, of Flat Iron restaurants in London, to come and cook at my festival, Meatopia, he agreed with one small caveat – he wanted to roast a whole ox over smouldering charcoal. And who am I to refuse such a request…

Charlie took a small ox, about 300kg (660lb), with the well-marbled whole body of carefully reared beef. It had good external fat cover, and a fat score of 4 litres (7 pints). His supplier had removed the fillets, excess cod fat and part of the topside to allow a spit to be mounted close to the spine of the ox.

A custom-built 4.2m (14ft) steel spit stand was made using 2 shin/shank clamp brackets and 2 spine brackets and this was set over a hearth, about 3.3 metres (11ft) wide, 60cm (2ft) deep and 1.5 metres (5ft) high, with a fire bed/grate approximately 30cm (12 inches) from the ground. The ox was then mounted on to the spit and clamped firmly into place.

Two 1.8 metre (6ft) diameter cartwheels were then attached to the ends of the spit and placed on two stands to support the spit (with rollers to adjust the distance from the fire). The balance of the spit could be adjusted by letting it turn freely, hung with the heaviest part down, before adding weights to the top of the cartwheel until the wheel could spin freely and was evenly balanced.

A large fire was lit underneath using well-seasoned oak, with the ox positioned about 1.2 metres (4ft) from the fire edge so that the surface temperature reached no higher than 150°C (300°F) in 15 minutes. The ox was then basted with the drippings using a long ladle, and the spit was turned 90° every 15 minutes with the spit locked into place with a pin in the cartwheel – this was repeated throughout the following 24 hours, each time the surface temperature of the ox was checked using an infrared temperature gun to ensure it was always between 100–150°C (210–300°F), controlled by making small adjustments to the size of the fire or distance from the fire.

Cooking at a higher heat (more than 150°C/300°F at the end of each 15-minute exposure) would risk burning the surface, or the entire animal catching alight, while cooking at a lower heat (less than 100°C (210°F) at the end of each 15-minute exposure) would risk enzymatic over-softening of the core meat and undercooking.

As the end of the 24 hours cooking and basting approached, the core temperature around the aitchbone/core of the silverside, underneath the shoulder blade, was tested to check if it was at the minimum core temperature of 50°C (120°F)– at this point it was ready to carve, season and eat, ideally with Yorkshire Pudding cooked in the ox drippings, with gravy and freshly grated horseradish.

Grilled ox heart buns with pickled walnuts

Heart is a woefully under-used offal that deserves to be made more of, and this is an easy introduction. The mighty chef Fergus Henderson served this fantastic sandwich at the very first Meatopia festival in the UK.

400g (14oz) ox heart

4 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon Maldon sea salt flakes

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped thyme leaves

40g (1½oz) watercress

40g (1½oz) shallots, sliced

40g (1½oz) Pickled Walnuts

4 Burger Buns

Trim the heart of anything that looks like sinew and remove any blood clots. Slice it open, lay it flat and cut it into 60g (2¼oz) pieces, each about 5mm (¼ inch) thick.

Toss the pieces of heart in the vinegar, salt, pepper and thyme and leave to marinate for 24 hours.

Heat the grill or griddle pan and sear the heart for 3 minutes on each side.

Serve with the watercress, shallots and Pickled Walnuts in the toasted buns.

Pickled walnuts

Makes 2 x 1 litre (1¾ pint) jars

1kg (2lb 4oz) freshly picked whole unripe soft walnuts, picked end of June or early July

225g (8oz) fine sea salt

1 litre (1¾ pints) malt vinegar

400g (14oz) dark brown muscovado sugar

1 teaspoon allspice berries

1 teaspoon cloves

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon black peppercorns

1 tablespoon grated fresh root ginger

Pickled walnuts are a great accompaniment to beef, either as a garnish or thrown into stews or braises. Quintessentially English, they can of course be bought ready pickled by Opies, should you need them and be unprepared.

Prick the soft walnuts with a fork (the shells won’t have formed yet, so pricking is easy) then cover with water and add half the salt.

Leave for 1 week, then drain and repeat with a fresh brine solution, using the other half of the salt, and leave for another week.

Drain the walnuts and lay them out on trays in a dry, airy place for a few days, by which time they will have turned black.

Combine the remaining ingredients in a saucepan. Bring to the boil, then add the walnuts and simmer for 15 minutes. Cool, then spoon the walnuts into large (1 litre/1¾ pint) jars and cover with the liquid. They will take a few weeks to pickle, and will keep for up to 1 year in the fridge.

Feed

Cattle evolved as grazers and ruminants, which means that pasture containing grasses, wild flowers and herbs is their natural diet. Grazing and foraging provide nutrients and minerals and make for a happy and consequently tasty animal. Foraging is an important part of cattle welfare and cannot be adequately replaced by feed. There is a huge difference between cattle principally given compound feed and an animal allowed access to good-quality land upon which to graze.

Grain-fed All cattle start out eating grass soon after weaning, so technically all beef is grass-fed early on, but then it starts to get complicated. Some countries transfer calves at around 350kg (770lb) in weight to feed lots. There they are fed rolled corn, corn byproducts, potato byproducts, barley and other grains, as well as roughage (which may consist of alfalfa, corn stalks, sorghum or other hay), cottonseed meal, and premixes. The premixes are composed of vitamins, minerals, chemical preservatives, antibiotics, fermentation products and other essential ingredients that are purchased from premix companies, usually in sacked form, for blending into commercial rations. In the American northwest and Canada, barley, low-grade durum wheat, chickpeas, oats and occasionally potatoes are used as feed. A beef steer might gain nearly 1kg (2lb 4oz) a day on grass but almost double that on these feeds. So animals are vanishing from fields, and the tasty, healthy, grass-fed meat they produce is hard to find.

In a typical feed lot, a cow’s diet is around 60 per cent roughage, 30 per cent grain, 5 per cent supplements and 5 per cent premix. This diet lowers the pH (alkalinity) in the animals’ rumen. Because of the stress of their environment and also because of some illnesses, many cattle are routinely dosed with antibiotics.

Cattle going through feed lots are slaughtered at 14–16 months. They grow fatter and faster if they’re being fed grain, so they are going into feed lots at younger ages to shorten that time as much as possible. In a feed lot environment, grain gives a feed to weight-gain ratio of 1kg (2.2lb) for every 6kg (13.2lb) of feed they eat. Feed lot diets are high in protein, to encourage growth of muscle mass and the deposition of marbling; this marbling is desirable to consumers, as it contributes to flavour and tenderness. The animal may gain an additional 180kg (400lb) during its 200 days in the feed lot. Once cattle are fattened up to their finished weight, they are slaughtered.

Animals that eat a lot of commercially produced feed produce saturated fat, whereas animals allowed to graze and forage produce more polyunsaturated fat. The double bonds that form the structure of the polyunsaturated fats are softer, making for softer, creamier fat. We know that this matters for texture and mouth feel, but there is strong evidence that feed also directly influences the flavour of meat. And many people who have trouble digesting grain-fed beef find they have no problem eating grass-fed meat.

All of this grain-fed beef is very similar in flavour. It’s done that way to guarantee its consistency, but consistency is boring, and if cattle are fed a bland, high-grain diet, they get ultra-marbling, which is so revered but tastes bland and one-dimensional, much like its feed. It doesn’t have the subtlety of naturally reared and extensively farmed beef. In French wine-making terms, it doesn’t have terroir, or the flavour of the natural environment in which it was produced, including factors such as the soil, topography and climate.

Grass-fed, grain-finished Cattle on a diet of pasture alone take a long time to reach their kill weight, so in Europe farmers “finish” cattle on grain, and sometimes peas and molasses, for five or six weeks before slaughter. This traditional method has stood the beef industry in good stead for hundreds of years. Finishing cattle involves slightly altering their diet for the final month or so before slaughter, in order to ensure that the meat develops the characteristics needed for dry ageing and good eating.

Until this point, at around two years, rare breed extensively farmed cattle have had a diet consisting almost entirely of grass, hay or silage. The grass-fed approach allows for gradual, unhurried maturation, which is essential for depth of flavour and quality. However, because of the relatively low protein value of grass feeds, this does mean that the animals haven’t yet developed enough fat to protect the flesh during dry ageing. Providing a higher protein supplement for the final month sees that the animals are fit for dry ageing and can also give the meat a little added sweetness.

The combination of pasture quality and finishing feed is the most important contributing factor to producing good-quality, tasty beef. Getting nutrition right can mean the difference between success and failure – it really is that important. Cattle have the ability to grow at an incredible pace, and during the first few months they will lay down mostly muscle and bone and a little fat. Anything tasty takes time, which is the guiding principle of the Slow Food Movement, and I’m absolutely convinced that extensively reared, grass-fed animals are tastier than intensively reared grain-fed beef.

In the summer of 2016 I was shown around Barnhart Ranch in Oregon, in the American northwest, by Wes Davies of Country Natural Beef, a cooperative of almost 100 ranches across the western US. The cooperative owns and manages more than 100,000 mother cows on millions of acres of private and public lands. It was founded for the purpose of providing customers with healthy and wholesome beef at a price that supports sustainable ranching, and all of its members believe that healthy and productive land is also biologically diverse. Their cattle are treated well and they embrace humane animal-handling practices while remaining economically and environmentally viable. At 350kg (770lb) the animals are transported from the ranches to the feed lot in Oregon, where they are kept very separate from the other cattle and given more space with some forage. No antibiotics, hormones, growth promoters or feed additives are used, and the occasional animal that requires any medical treatment is pulled from their programme and sold on another market. From what I saw, this method of cattle rearing is not that far removed from some of the best in Europe.

Grass-fed At the other end of the spectrum are purely grass-fed cattle, which are finished on grass and stored hay, never on grains; from an evolutionary standpoint, this is the most natural way of feeding cattle. Grass finishing pre-dates industrialized farming, but takes longer and costs more, and so was largely abandoned when cheap corn and grain became prevalent. Today there is a growing band of enlightened farmers who understand grass finishing and, through proper genetic selection and efficient high-quality pasture management, are producing beautiful natural beef that tastes how beef might have done 100 years ago. Grass-fed cows grow at a slower pace and are slaughtered at 24–36 months. When you keep cattle on grass their whole lives, and truly have them forage for a diet that their bodies have evolved to eat, you allow them to grow slowly.

Not surprisingly, caring for the animals for so long can be expensive for farmers and consumers, and the “grass-fed” label is open to abuse. The Agricultural Marketing Service developed the US Department of Agriculture (USDA) grass-fed standard, but the Food Safety and Inspection Service actually enforces it. The two organizations, even though they’re both part of the USDA, don’t communicate especially well. Consequently, you see a lot of beef labelled as “grass-fed”, but whether or not it actually meets that standard is questionable. The USDA allows producers to determine whether or not their beef meets the grass-fed beef marketing claim standard. Farms “self-certify” their own beef, and the Food Safety and Inspection Service generally goes along with their claim.

The American Grassfed Association has far more stringent standards than the USDA, and hires third-party auditors to inspect the farms across the country each year. According to its standards, grass-fed cows should be given continuous access to rangeland, and they cannot be fed grains or grain byproducts except in times of severe drought when the welfare of the cattle is a concern.

After the Barnhart Ranch I visited the Alderspring Ranch, in Idaho. Here they go a step further – the cattle never see a feed lot and are the epitome of free-range. At this family-owned and operated ranch, Glenn and Caryl Elzinga rear Angus or Angus cross, which are certified organic, with help from their family: Melanie, Abigail, Linnaea and Ethan. Oh, and Konrad the Border Collie, an integral part of their herding in Idaho’s stunning Salmon River Mountains. To finish, Alderspring Ranch feeds its beef nothing but green grass and grass/alfalfa hay; so the cattle are strictly 100 per cent grass-fed and grass-finished. The cold summer nights and high soil mineral levels of the Salmon River mountain pastures grow grass like nowhere else, resulting in a uniquely flavourful beef. The Elzingas believe Idaho to be the best grass-fed beef producing area in the US, and because they only sell beef from their ranch, they know each animal’s history. Each cut is labelled and traceable to a single steer, and, unusually for the US, they also dry-age their grass-fed beef. Alderspring Beef is processed in a small, USDA-inspected facility, traditionally butchered and hand-cut. The ranch is small enough for intimate care of the land and livestock, but large enough to grow beef on a viable scale. And they have been growing 100 per cent grass-fed beef for discerning patrons for more than 15 years, perfecting their production and processing methods over the years. They clearly know how to manage their pastures and grazing animals for optimal health, growth and – I can testify to this – flavour.

Carpaccio

Thai beef salad

Beef tataki

Chopped steak tartare

Chopped veal with tuna mayonnaise

Chopped steak with anchovy toast

Yukhoe (Korean steak tartare)

Chopped steak with bone marrow toast

Cured fillet steak

Spiced potted beef

Salt beef

Pastrami

Cecina

Corned or bully beef

Corned beef hash

A Reubenesque sandwich

Steak sausages

Sweetbread sausages

Confit garlic

Onion confit

Preserved bone marrow

Pickled or brined ox tongue

Bresaola

Biltong

Beef Jerky

Pickled tripe

Slaughter

Carpaccio

Carpaccio is based on the Piedmont speciality carne cruda all’Albese, and was famously created by Giuseppe Cipriani of Harry’s Bar in Venice. With only five main ingredients, it’s more important than ever that every one of them is in tip-top condition and the best that money can buy.

400g (14oz) freshly butchered sirloin steak (aged meat will not work here)

80g (2¾oz) wild rocket salad

100ml (3½fl oz) very good Italian extra virgin olive oil

finely grated zest and juice of 1 unwaxed lemon

30g (1oz) Parmesan cheese, or 20g (¾oz) fresh white truffle in season

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Remove all the fat and any sinew from the sirloin steak and slice as thinly as possible – if this proves tricky, the sliced meat can be beaten out between 2 sheets of clingfilm.

Spread the thin slices of meat over 4 plates, covering them entirely.

Season liberally with salt and pepper and scatter the rocket over the top, then drizzle with the olive oil. Grate over a little lemon zest, then cut the lemon in half and squeeze the juice over as well.

Finally, grate or shave your choice of Parmesan or white truffle over the top and serve.

Tell your butcher that you are making carpaccio when purchasing your beef, to ensure they give you the freshest cut.

Thai beef salad

Steak is so often eaten raw that it is no longer a surprise, though it does carry a small risk. But living without danger means you miss out as it can be delicious. Cooking may be the only absolute insurance, but raw is worth a little risk in my book. Buying from a good, busy butcher means the produce is turning over quickly and the meat is fresh. Tell your butcher you will be eating this raw.

400g (14oz) fillet steak, un-hung or freshly butchered

12 bird’s-eye chillies

2 teaspoons kaffir lime juice (or use regular lime juice)

2 teaspoons lime juice

2 teaspoons palm sugar

½ teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons fish sauce

2 small red shallots, sliced

2 spring onions, sliced

2–3 coriander sprigs, leaves picked

2–3 mint sprigs, leaves picked

3 fresh kaffir lime leaves, finely julienned

4 Little Gem lettuce leaves

¼ cucumber, sliced

10g (¼oz) Thai toasted rice powder

Slice the fillet steak across the grain into 5mm (¼ inch) slices and place in a shallow dish.

Slice the chillies and pound, using a mortar and pestle. Add both the lime juices, sugar and salt. Pour over the steak, mix well, then cover and allow to marinate for 10 minutes to absorb the flavours.

Mix in the fish sauce, shallots, spring onions and herbs and serve on top of the lettuce leaves.

Garnish with sliced cucumber and sprinkle with toasted rice powder.

Beef tataki

Tataki refers to a Japanese method of preparing fillet of beef, in which the meat is lightly seared, marinated, sliced thinly similar to sashimi, and served with a citrus-soy dipping sauce.

500g (1lb 2oz) fillet steak

small handful of shiso leaves

small handful of mizuna leaves

1 tablespoon pickled ginger, julienned

1 tablespoon daikon, julienned

½ red chilli, julienned

1 spring onion, finely sliced

sancho berries or sancho pepper, to taste

80ml (2½fl oz) Japanese soy sauce (ponzu shōyu sauce)

10g (¼oz) freshly grated wasabi

Maldon sea salt flakes

Season the fillet steak with salt and leave it to rest for about 10 minutes at room temperature. Heat a flat griddle or a heavy-based frying pan until smoking hot. Sear the beef for 1 minute on each side – it should be rare on the inside.

Slice the steak 5mm (¼ inch) thick and place straight on to a bed of the shiso and mizuna in a circular fashion.

Garnish with the pickled ginger, daikon and red chilli, and finely sliced spring onion. Season lightly with freshly ground sancho berries or sancho pepper.

Mix the Japanese soy sauce (ponzu shōyu) sauce with the freshly grated wasabi and serve on the side, for dipping.

You can buy fresh wasabi from www.thewasabicompany.co.uk – alternatively substitute with fresh horseradish.

Chopped steak tartare

Here are my favourite chopped steak preparations. It’s probably clear by now that anchovies and bone marrow are pivotal to my being, and the first two recipes highlight why. A small green salad, toast or potato chips could be served as a side with all five recipes.

400g (14oz) freshly butchered fillet steak

10g (¼oz) finely chopped banana shallot

10g (¼oz) finely chopped cornichons

10g (¼oz) whole lilliput (tiny) capers

20ml (¾fl oz) tomato ketchup

2 teaspoons Tabasco sauce

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

10g (¼oz) Creamed Horseradish

4 small free-range egg yolks

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

4 slices of toasted sourdough, to serve

Finely chop the fillet steak into 4mm (about ⅛ inch) cubes and place in a bowl.

Add the shallot, cornichons, capers, ketchup, Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce and Creamed Horseradish. Taste, then season with salt and pepper and mix well.

To serve, divide the steak tartare mixture between 4 plates and make an indentation in the centre of each 1. Carefully tip a yolk into each indentation, on top of the steak tartare. Serve with toasted sourdough.

Chopped veal with tuna mayonnaise

400g (14oz) rose veal fillet, cut into 4mm (about ⅛ inch) dice

1 banana shallot, very finely chopped

finely grated zest and juice of 1 unwaxed lemon

1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley leaves

50ml (2fl oz) mayonnaise

50g (1¾oz) canned tuna, drained

50g (1¾oz) anchovy fillets, drained

20g (¾oz) capers

50ml (2fl oz) single cream

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground white pepper

To serve

mojama (air-dried tuna)

fried potato crisps or toast

Place the chopped veal in a bowl and add the shallot, lemon zest and chopped parsley and stir together.

Blend the mayonnaise to a smooth sauce with the tuna, anchovies, capers, cream, Worcestershire sauce and lemon juice. Mix with the chopped veal and season to taste with salt and white pepper.

To serve, place a pile of the chopped veal mixture in the middle of 4 plates and grate a little mojama over the top. Serve alongside potato crisps or toast.

Chopped steak with anchovy toast

400g (14oz) freshly butchered fillet steak

50ml (2fl oz) extra virgin olive oil

juice of ½ lemon

4 slices of sourdough

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

For the anchovy cream

25ml (1fl oz) cider vinegar

1 hard-boiled free-range egg yolk

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon caster sugar

½ teaspoon Maldon sea salt flakes

½ teaspoon white pepper

50g (1¾oz) anchovies in olive oil, drained

1 garlic clove

a few thyme leaves

¼ teaspoon unwaxed lemon zest

100ml (3½fl oz) single cream

First make the anchovy cream: put all the ingredients, except the cream, into a blender and blend for 30 seconds. With the machine running, slowly add the single cream in a thin stream until just incorporated, then pass through a fine sieve and refrigerate until needed. Dice the fillet steak into 4mm (about ⅛ inch) cubes, place them in a bowl and season to taste with the olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper.

Grill the sourdough and spread the slices with Anchovy Cream.

Pile 100g (3½oz) portions of chopped steak in the middle of 4 plates and serve with the anchovy toasts on the side.

Yukhoe (Korean steak tartare)

10g (¼oz) caster sugar

1 tablespoon water

1 Asian pear

400g (14oz) freshly butchered fillet steak

6 garlic cloves, crushed

3 spring onions, finely chopped

2 teaspoons soy sauce

2 teaspoons honey

2 teaspoons sesame oil

1 teaspoon roasted sesame seeds

5g (⅛oz) roasted pine nuts (not Chinese)

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

gochujang (Korean chilli paste), to serve

Dissolve the sugar in the water. Peel and core the pear, then cut into julienne and place in the sugar water. Refrigerate until needed.

Julienne the steak and place in a bowl with the garlic, spring onions, soy sauce, honey and sesame oil. Add the sesame seeds, season to taste and mix well.

Drain the pear and place on plates in a nest-like shape. Place the steak mix over the top and garnish with the roasted pine nuts.

Serve with gochujang, a spicy and pungent fermented Korean condiment made from red chilli, glutinous rice, fermented soybeans and salt.

Chopped steak with bone marrow toast

1 large bone marrow shaft, cut into 7cm (2¾ inch) lengths (ask your butcher to do this)

400g (14oz) freshly butchered fillet steak

4 slices of sourdough

5cm (2 inch) piece of fresh horseradish, peeled

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas Mark 6. Season the bone marrow shafts and roast for 15 minutes, until cooked through. Scoop out the marrow.

Dice the fillet steak into 4mm (about ⅛ inch) cubes and place in a bowl. Season the beef to taste with plenty of salt and pepper. Grill the sourdough, spread with warm bone marrow and season lightly.

Pile 100g (3½oz) portions of chopped steak in the middle of 4 plates and place the bone marrow toasts on the side. Using a fine grater, grate fresh horseradish “snow” over the chopped steak and serve.

Cured fillet steak

I’m not a great fan of fillet steak: there’s not enough texture or flavour for my liking. However, this is a splendid use of fillet that makes a great starter. As always, using the correct ingredients will pay dividends – freshly crushed black peppercorns, for instance.

250g (9oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

250g (9oz) light muscovado sugar

100g (3½oz) freshly grated horseradish

1 garlic clove, crushed

10 rosemary sprigs

1kg (2lb 4oz) fillet steak (barrel or centre cut)

50g (1¾oz) freshly cracked black peppercorns

meat-curing muslin sleeve or stockingette

To serve

Beet Kraut

finely chopped preserved lemon

To make the curing mixture, combine the salt, sugar, horseradish, garlic and rosemary and leave to dry on a tray overnight.

Trim any excess fat and sinew from the beef and rub the meat with the dried ingredients.

Scatter 1cm (½ inch) of the curing mix into a tray and place the beef on top. Cover this with another layer of the mix, then cover the tray, pop it into the fridge and leave to cure for about 36 hours, turning the meat every 12 hours.

When the beef has cured, remove it from the mix and brush off any excess. Roll the fillet in freshly cracked black pepper, then wrap in a muslin sleeve/stockinette and hang up in a cool place to air-dry overnight.

Unwrap, slice thinly and serve with Beet Kraut and finely chopped preserved lemon.

Spiced potted beef

Potting was a method used for extending the shelf life of meat before the advent of refrigeration. The meat is cooked and, while hot, very tightly packed to exclude air, then it is covered with hot fat. As the fat cools, it hardens and forms an airtight seal, retarding spoilage by airborne bacteria. It can then be stored in a cool place, such as a cellar or pantry, until required. For a longer shelf life, sealed jars can be boiled in pots base-lined with cardboard to stop them rattling and breaking, then allowed to cool in the water.

1kg (2lb 4oz) raw Salt Beef or brined brisket

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

½ teaspoon ground ginger

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

25g (1oz) salted anchovies

250ml (9fl oz) Basic Beef Broth

250ml (9oz) beef dripping, plus extra to seal the pots

hot toast, to serve

Preheat the oven to 140°C (275°F), Gas Mark 1.

Cut the beef into 5cm (2 inch) chunks and place in a cast-iron pan with all the other ingredients, except the extra dripping. Cover the pan and place in the oven for 4 hours.

Remove from the oven and leave to cool slightly. Flake the meat with your fingers and pack into sterilized ramekins or mini Kilner jars while still warm (see Preserved bone marrow for how to sterilize jars). Melt some more beef dripping and spoon over the top to seal.

Refrigerate for 36 hours before eating, as it improves with time, and use within 1 week. Serve with hot toast or Yorkshire Pudding and Onion Gravy.

Salt beef

Another ancient method for preserving beef. And from salt beef (which can be cooked and eaten in its own right) come Pastrami and Corned Beef.

4 litres (7 pints) water

500g (1lb 2oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

200g (7oz) dark muscovado sugar

20g (¾oz) pink curing salt (93.75% salt, 6.25% nitrate), also called Prague powder No. 1

20g (¾oz) pickling spice

2kg (4lb 8oz) navel-cut beef brisket

5 onions, peeled and chopped

10 garlic cloves, crushed

To serve

6 bagels

butter

hot mustard

sliced pickles

To make the brine, bring 2 litres (3½ pints) of water to the boil with the salt, sugar, curing salt and pickling spice. Stir until the salt and sugar have dissolved, then remove from the heat and add a further 2 litres (3½ pints) of cold water. Pour into a sterile bucket or large plastic food tub and leave to cool completely.

Remove the fat from the exterior of the meat, leaving a 5mm (¼ inch) layer on one side. Add the meat to the curing solution and place a large sterile weight or plate on top to submerge it. Leave it at cool room temperature for a minimum of 7–10 days, until it is well cured and pink in colour – though it can stay in the brine for another week, should you prefer a saltier end product. Move the meat every day or so, just to stir up the cure.

Once cured, drain the beef and soak it overnight in clean water to desalinate it. Then put it into a pan, cover it with fresh water, add the chopped onions and garlic and poach gently for 3 hours.

Once cooked and tender, cut into thick slices and serve on fresh buttered bagels, with hot mustard and pickles.

Pastrami

This was originally made with goose breast, which was inexpensive in Romania, and was known as pastramă. When Romanian Jews emigrated to New York in the 1870s, beef navels were cheaper than goose, so they adapted their recipe and began to make beef pastrami.

10g (¼oz) ground coriander

5g (⅛oz) English mustard powder

5g (⅛oz) paprika

10g (¼oz) soft brown sugar

20g (¾oz) freshly ground black pepper

2kg (4lb 8oz) Salt Beef

You will also need

a meat thermometer

Blend together all the spices, sugar and pepper to make a rub. Rinse the meat, pat it dry with kitchen paper, then apply the rub liberally, pressing it into the surface of the meat to help it adhere. Put into the fridge, unwrapped, for a minimum of 2 days.

Preheat your smoker to 110°C (230°F), according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Using a fruit wood, smoke the beef for up to 6 hours, or until an internal temperature of 90°C (195°F) is reached. Leave to cool, then wrap in clingfilm and refrigerate until needed.

To reheat, steam gently until heated through.

Cecina

Cecina is salt-cured, air-dried beef, and is a true delicacy of Spain. For centuries, homes in the Maragara area (in the northwest of Spain) traditionally kept a dried beef leg in the larder to feed the family. The production process contains six steps, which are called perfilado, salado, lavado, asentamiento, ahumado and secado or curación.

The cecina produced in the province of León, aptly called cecina de León, is famous for its quality, and has a protected geographical identification under the law. The altitude and dry climate of León is perfect for the production of cecina; however, a passable version can be made at home with practice. Like almost everything beef-related, it comes down to the quality of the meat you start with.

The dry-curing of beef involves a number of biochemical reactions, caused by enzymes, which cause a breakdown of proteins in the muscle tissue, creating large numbers of small peptides and free amino acids, while the lipids in the muscle and connective tissue break down and create free fatty acids. It requires patience, persistence and fastidious kitchen practice. The entire process takes 7 months.

It takes clean hands and plastic gloves (cleanliness is paramount) to begin this process: a piece of beef shank is first rubbed with 1kg (2lb 4oz) Maldon sea salt flakes to cover every exposed part, flesh and bone. The beef is then placed skin side down in an immaculately clean plastic tray or tub and covered with a sheet of clingfilm. Another tray is placed on top and a heavy weight placed on top of that, at least 4kg (9lb) or more.

The beef is then refrigerated for 2 weeks and checked every day, with any liquid poured off, and re-rubbed with fresh salt. When the beef is firm to touch, with little give, it’s time to wash it thoroughly in cold water before smoking.

The beef is then ready to be cold-smoked for 2 weeks. It’s not an easy process keeping a cold smoker going for 2 weeks, and this is best done outside in winter.

After smoking, the meat is air-dried for around 6 months in a cool room with windows that can be opened and closed to regulate the temperature and humidity, or hung in a walk-in refrigerator at about 5°C (40°F) with 60–70 per cent humidity – much like air-dried ham.

When the beef shank is ready, at around the 6 month mark, it will have lost about one-third of its original weight.

The success of air-curing your own cecina depends in equal parts on the quality of the meat you start with, cleanliness, the environment you hang it in... and a portion of luck.

Corned or bully beef

This name comes from the treatment of the meat with large grained rock salt, also called “corns”. It was popular during the war, when fresh meat was rationed, and it was known as bully beef – “bully” being a corruption of the French bouilli, meaning “boiled”. Corned beef remains popular in the United Kingdom and in countries with British culinary traditions, and is commonly eaten in sandwiches, as corned beef hash, or with chips and pickles.

500g (1lb 2oz) leftover cooked Salt Beef or Pastrami

200g (7oz) good beef dripping, with jelly if possible

Chop the leftover Salt Beef or Pastrami into 1cm (½ inch) cubes and place in a bowl. Warm the beef dripping until liquid, then add the beef and mix well.

Pack into terrine moulds, cover and refrigerate to set.

When needed, cut into slices and serve with pickles, or use for making hash.

Corned beef hash

I grew up on this stuff, and it pleases me to see it still being served in one guise or another in restaurants. Often it’s pimped almost beyond recognition with duck or goose or smoked meats, but at its heart it’s still hash – or bubble and squeak, if cabbage is included.

50g (1¾oz) beef dripping

1 large onion, peeled and finely sliced

1 large potato, such as Maris Piper, peeled and cut into 1cm (½ inch) chunks

300ml (½ pint) Basic Beef Broth

200g (7oz) Corned Beef, cut into 1cm (½ inch) chunks

2 free-range eggs

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

brown sauce, HP for preference, to serve

Melt half the beef dripping in a skillet or ovenproof frying pan over a medium-high heat. Fry the sliced onion until golden, stirring frequently, then add the potato, toss to mix and pour in the broth. Simmer for 15–20 minutes, until the potatoes are really tender and the broth has all but evaporated.

Heat the grill. Stir the Corned Beef into the pan, then increase the heat and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, until heated through. Now put the pan under the grill for about 5 minutes, until the top is crisp and golden.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining dripping in a small frying pan and fry the eggs to your preference. Personally I like them sunny side up, with crispy edges and a seasoned white. Serve on top of the hash, with brown sauce on the side, of course.

A Reubenesque sandwich

It would not be unreasonable to say that the Reuben served at Katz’s Delicatessen in New York City might be THE GREATEST SANDWICH IN THE WORLD. A Reuben is usually made with corned beef, but at Katz’s you can pay an extra dollar to have yours with pastrami, and it’s well worth it. The sourness of the sauerkraut is an essential part of the classic Reuben and the Swiss cheese is irreplaceable, as it melts over the hot beef, mixing perfectly with the Russian dressing. All sandwiched in New York rye, a soft bread made with both rye flour and traditional strong white bread flour, giving a delicious subtle strength of flavour and texture. We mere mortals cannot hope to replicate this sandwich exactly – there are too many subtle variables and secrets – but below is my best guess.

good handful of sauerkraut

4 slices of Swiss cheese

300g (10½oz) thickly sliced, hot Pastrami this is a restrained guess – Katz’s are immoderate, extravagant and borderline reckless in their portioning

2 slices of seedless New York rye bread

For the Russian dressing

1 tablespoon finely chopped onion

50ml (2fl oz) tomato ketchup

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon horseradish sauce

1 teaspoon hot sauce

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

In a small bowl, combine all the ingredients for the Russian dressing and correct the seasoning. Set aside.

Put the sauerkraut on a baking tray, top with the Swiss cheese slices and grill until the cheese has melted.

Pile the hot pastrami on a slice of New York rye.

Add the sauerkraut and cheese on top and smother the other slice of bread with a couple of spoonfuls of the dressing.

Close the sandwich and eat, with 2 hands and plenty of napkins.

Steak sausages

One of our biggest sellers at Turner & George, these are intensely beefy and juicy. Don’t skimp on the fat or breadcrumbs: fat adds juiciness and flavour and the breadcrumbs hold on to the meat juices while cooking and make for a juicier sausage. Sometimes 100 per cent beef can be a bad thing.

500g (1lb 2oz) beef flank

500g (1lb 2oz) chuck steak

250g (9oz) beef fat

250g (9oz) bone marrow

125ml (4fl oz) Basic Beef Broth

250g (9oz) fresh breadcrumbs

30g (1oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

You will also need

2m (6ft 6 inches) hog casing

a mincer with a sausage stuffer attachment

The meat should be kept as cold as possible, so work in a cool room and return the meat to the fridge when it is not needed.

Begin by roughly cutting the meat, fat and bone marrow so that is easy to feed through the mincer.

Soak the hog casing in cold water for about 1 hour to soften it, and loosen the salt in which it is packed. Place the wide end of the sausage stuffer up against the tap and run cold water through the inside of the casing to remove excess salt.

Mix the beef broth with the breadcrumbs to make a panade.

Fit a coarse disc into the mincer and mince the meat, fat and bone marrow into a large mixing bowl (or for very coarse sausages, chop by hand). Add the breadcrumb mixture, sprinkle over the salt and pepper and mix thoroughly. Cook a tester of the mixture in a hot frying pan to check the seasoning before making the sausages.

Cut the casing into 2 lengths and tie a small knot in the end of each. Fit the open end over the tip of the sausage stuffer and slide it on until the tip of the stuffer touches the knot, this stops excess air from getting into the casing. Fit the stuffer on to the meat grinder, or according to the directions that come with the stuffer, or hold the wide end of the stuffer against or over the opening by hand.

Fill the hopper with the sausage mixture. Turn the machine on and feed the sausage mix gradually into the hopper, for a manual machine; the sausage casing will fill and gradually inflate. Smooth out any bumps with your fingers, being careful not to push the stuffing out of the casing, and tie off the open end of the sausage tightly by making a knot in the end.

To form the links, hold the entire casing up by its middle and twist it to form the first link. Then twist at the required intervals, going in opposite directions for each sausage to prevent the links unravelling.

Hang for at least a few hours in the refrigerator to dry out before cooking.

To cook the sausages, use a heavy skillet or frying pan to diffuse the heat. Set over a low heat, and fry them low and slow for around 20 minutes. If they are colouring too fast, sprinkle them with a little water from time to time. If you are barbecuing, blanch them in boiling water for 10 minutes before cooking and cook over smouldering charcoal, low and slow. Make sure you cook them through – beef sausages should not be eaten pink. Serve with Mashed Potato and Onion Gravy

Sweetbread sausages

Sweetbreads come in two types: the throat, which is long in shape and used in stuffings and sausages as an ingredient, and the heart, which is round in shape and used as the principal ingredient in a dish. Sweetbreads should always be soaked for a few hours before cooking, to remove blood and freshen them up.

1 x 400g (14oz) veal sweetbread, from the throat, soaked, blanched, peeled and cut into 1cm (½ inch) cubes

ox bung casings

To poach & grill

25g (1oz) curing salt

1kg (2lb 4oz) veal belly, chopped

500g (1lb 2oz) pork fat, chopped

160ml (5½fl oz) iced water

75g (2¾oz) Confit Garlic

40g (1½oz) Onion Confit

To smoke & grill

2kg (4lb 8oz) mix of veal flank and veal shoulder, chopped

250g (9oz) pork back fat, chopped

250g (9oz) panade, made from equal quantities of milk and bread, soaked

50g (1¾oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

5g (⅛oz) ground mace

5g (⅛oz) ground coriander

5g (⅛oz) freshly ground white pepper

50g (1¾oz) garlic cloves, chopped

1 teaspoon thyme leaves

50g (1¾oz) dextrose

50g (1¾oz) Fermento (alternatively use buttermilk powder or dried yogurt powder) (see Franks or hot dogs)

250g (9oz) porcini or ceps, chopped and sautéed

To poach and grill: Add the curing salt to the veal belly and pork fat and toss together. Partially freeze this mixture, then mince on an 8mm (⅜ inch) die into a bowl set over ice.

Working in manageable batches and using the paddle attachment on a food processor, beat the mixture on medium speed for 10 seconds, before increasing the speed for roughly 1 minute while continuously streaming in the iced water. The mixture should be soft, tacky and firmly bound.

At this point cook a little bit of the mix to check for seasoning. If satisfied, fold in the sweetbreads, Confit Garlic and Onion Confit, being careful to make sure they are well incorporated but not over-mixed so they are broken down.

Stuff into large ox bung casings, or place on a sheet of ovenproof clingfilm, and roll it up and twist to form a cylinder around 15cm (6 inches) long. Poach in a pan of water at 70°C (160°C) for 1 hour, until an internal temperature of 60°C (140°F) is reached and the sausage is cooked through. Remove from the water and chill in iced water immediately.

When ready to use, cut into slices 3cm (1¼ inches) thick and fry until golden all over. Serve with a little jus or gravy.

To smoke and grill: Using a meat mincer, mince the veal flank, veal shoulder, pork back fat and panade through a 4mm (¼ inch) die and mix with the salt, then freeze for 1 hour. Mix in all the seasonings, garlic and thyme, dextrose and Fermento and mould into loose balls, then place in the freezer along with the clean mincer attachments until partially frozen.

Re-mince the partially frozen balls through the small die and reform the meat into small balls once more. Put back into the freezer along with a food processor blade attachment.

When partially frozen, place the balls in a food processor and whizz to a purée. Fold in the chopped sweetbreads and sautéed porcini.

Stuff into large ox bung casings, or place on a sheet of ovenproof clingfilm, and roll it up and twist to form a cylinder around 15cm (6 inches) long. Hot-smoke at 110°C (230°F) for 1 hour until an internal temperature of 60°C (140°F) is reached.

Leave to cool, then chill in the refrigerator. When ready to use, cut into slices 3cm (1¼ inches) thick and fry until golden all over. Serve with a little jus or gravy.

Confit garlic

Makes 1 x 450ml (1lb) jar

2 garlic bulbs, cloves separated and peeled

olive oil

Place the garlic cloves in a small saucepan over a medium heat and pour over enough olive oil to cover them. As soon as the oil starts to simmer, reduce the heat to as low as it can go and poach for about 45 minutes, until the garlic is soft and tender. Transfer the garlic cloves to a sterilized jar and pour over the oil to cover.

Leave to cool, then seal the jar and keep in the fridge. It will keep unopened for several weeks, or you can decant into a freezable container and freeze it. Keep the garlic cloves covered in oil and always use a clean spoon to dip into the jar.

Onion confit

Makes 40g (1½oz)

2 large Spanish onions, peeled and finely sliced

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Maldon sea salt flakes, to taste

Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. When hot, add the onions to the pan and let them cook undisturbed for a few minutes. When the onions start to sweat and steam, toss and season with salt. Continue cooking for 20 minutes until the onions steadily colour and the liquid evaporates. Keep turning the whole pile of onions over on itself every few minutes to help distribute the caramelizing juice throughout.

After the onions have reduced in volume and are soft, reduce the heat to low and cook for 1 hour, stirring and turning the onions every 10 minutes to ensure they don’t stick or burn at any point, until they develop a deep, caramelized savoury sweetness, and a soft texture.

Use immediately, or store in an airtight plastic container for up to 1 week in the refrigerator.

Preserved bone marrow

Along with anchovies and Stilton cheese, I’ve a bit of a thing for bone marrow. And it occurred to me that it’s an ideal ingredient for preserving. The amount of time it takes to sterilize or preserve depends on the size of the jar, and here I’m using 250ml (9fl oz) jars. Once cooked, it can be kept and used whenever a recipe calls for bone marrow.

Makes as much as you need

bone marrow shafts, cut into 6cm (2½ inch) rounds (ask your butcher to cut them for you)

Basic Beef Rub

Soak the bone marrow shafts in iced water for 10 minutes, then refresh the water and soak for a further 10 minutes. The bone marrow should now pop out of the bones. Discard the bones and continue soaking the bone marrow for another 20 minutes to purge any blood.

To sterilize your jars, place them in boiling water or steam at 140°C (275°F), with an old tea towel under the jars to stop them rattling around and breaking.

Remove the clean bone marrow from the water and dry. Season heavily with plenty of Beef Rub and pack into heatproof glass jars, screwing on the lids reasonably tightly.

Put the jars back into the water or steamer for 30 minutes to cook and sterilize, then remove and allow to cool. The bone marrow can now be refrigerated for several weeks, or even months, until needed.

Pickled or brined ox tongue

Ox tongues are often sold pickled or brined, but if you find yourself with a fresh tongue, this is how to do it yourself. Brining improves the flavour and texture of fresh tongue considerably.

Serves 12 as a starter

3 litres (5¼ pints) water

300g (10½oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

100g (3½oz) light muscovado sugar

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 teaspoon juniper berries

2 cloves

1 fresh ox tongue

For simmering

1 faggot of herbs (thyme, bay and rosemary)

1 carrot, chopped

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1 celery stick, chopped

1 garlic bulb, halved horizontally

Bring 1 litre (1¾ pints) of the water to the boil with the salt, sugar and spices. Remove from the heat and allow to cool, then add the other 2 litres (3½ pints) of cold water.

Place the tongue in a large plastic container, then pour over the cool brine and weigh down the tongue in the liquid. Cover and refrigerate for 4–5 days.

Remove the tongue from the brine and soak in fresh water overnight in the refrigerator.

Place the salted tongue in a pot and add the simmering ingredients. Cover with cold water and bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to very low and simmer for 4–5 hours. The tongue is ready when it is very soft.

Peel the tongue while still warm, and serve sliced, either warm or cold, with horseradish sauce and mustard.

Bresaola

Originating from the Valtellina Valley of northern Italy’s Lombardy region in the Alps, bresaola is a cured and air-dried beef made from top inside round, a single muscle in the top of the leg and below the rump. Prague powder, though not absolutely essential, will make for a better result and is easily available online anywhere in the world.

1.5kg eye of round beef

50g Maldon sea salt flakes

50g caster sugar

5g Prague powder No. 2

5g juniper berries

5g black peppercorns

5g finely chopped rosemary leaves

5g finely chopped thyme leaves

piece of clean muslin (large enough to hold the beef), soaked in vinegar

Trim off all the surface fat and silverskin from the beef, but not the silverskin running through the centre of the muscle, or it will fall apart.

Grind the salt, sugar, Prague powder, spices and herbs to a powder, using a mortar and pestle.

Rub half the spice cure into the surface of the meat and seal it inside a freezer bag. Place the meat in the fridge and allow to cure for 1 week, turning daily.

After a week, take the meat out of the bag, dry it with kitchen paper, then rub it with the second half of the cure. Reseal and marinate for a second week, turning the meat daily.

Remove any remaining cure and pat dry with kitchen paper. Tie 2 pieces of string vertically around the meat, then tie a series of butcher’s knots horizontally around and wrap in clean muslin.

Weigh the bresaola and make a note of its weight, then hang it at 15°C (60°F) and 60 per cent humidity (cool room temperature) for 1 month. The bresaola will be ready when it has lost 30 per cent of its weight.

Remove the bresaola from the muslin and rub down with clean muslin soaked in vinegar, then hang for a further 2 weeks without muslin.

Cut into paper-thin slices and serve either as it comes, or with extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice.

I recommend using metric measures for making this recipe as it is important to measure all the ingredients, especially the Prague powder, accurately.

Biltong

A version of jerky originally made from game meats by the indigenous peoples of southern Africa, who preserved it by curing it with salt and hanging it up to dry. Biltong as it is today evolved from the dried meat carried by the wagon-travelling Voortrekkers, who needed stocks of durable food as they migrated north away from British rule. European settlers added spices in the early 17th century and later started using the same technique on their livestock.

1kg (2lb 4oz) lean beef, such as rump or top round

30g (1oz) coriander seeds

30g (1oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

10g (¼oz) coarsely ground black pepper

Place the meat in the freezer for 1 hour so it’s easier to slice thinly.

Toast the coriander seeds and crush lightly with a mortar and pestle together with the salt and pepper.

Slice the meat into strips 10cm (4 inches) long by 4cm (1½ inches) wide and 1cm (½ inch) thick, going against the grain, and dust liberally with the crushed seasoning. Place in a resealable plastic bag and refrigerate overnight.

Thread the beef strips on to wooden or metal skewers and hang them up to dry in a cool, dry, suitable spot where there is some movement of air and they are unlikely to be disturbed by flies. There is such a thing as a biltong dryer, should a cool, breezy area be elusive!

Drying time is about 5 days, depending on the weather, and whether you prefer your biltong crisp or slightly moist. If the biltong is moist, store it in an airtight container in the fridge; if bone-dry it can be stored in a cool cupboard for up to 1 month.

It is worth noting that making this when the weather is dry with a degree of breeze will produce best results. Humid or damp conditions can produce mould.

Beef Jerky

I ate fresh beef jerky as a bar snack in a New York restaurant and was immediately smitten. Not quite as challenging to eat as commercially available jerky, this recipe makes a delightfully moreish beefy diversion.

1kg (2lb 4oz) top round (from the rear leg)

For the marinade

50ml (2fl oz) sweet apple cider

50ml (2fl oz) cider vinegar

50ml (2fl oz) sriracha sauce

50ml (2fl oz) dark soy sauce

50ml (2fl oz) honey

50ml (2fl oz) sambal sauce

5 garlic cloves, crushed

freshly cracked black pepper

Place the meat in the freezer for 1 hour so it’s easier to slice thinly.

Slice the meat into strips 10cm (4 inches) long by 4cm (1½ inches) wide and 1cm (½ inch) thick, going against the grain, and place in a resealable plastic bag.

Mix all the ingredients for the marinade and pour over the sliced meat, mixing everything around until all the strips are completely covered. Put the sealed bag into the fridge and leave overnight.

Remove the strips of meat from the marinade and place in single layers on 2 oven racks, letting the strips drip a little as you remove them from the marinade.

Place the racks high up in the oven and set the temperature to 75°C (170°F) or as low as your oven will go. Keep the oven door slightly open, so that the meat dries slowly without cooking.

Leave in the oven for about 2 hours, then flip the strips over and leave in there for another 2 hours or so. If you’ve used several racks, swap the positions around so the strips dry evenly. Total cooking time will depend a lot on the size and thickness of the strips. Your jerky will be done when it’s dry enough to rip apart easily, but not so dry that it snaps if you bend it.

Leave the jerky out to cool for a couple of hours, then transfer to an airtight container, where it will keep unrefrigerated for a few weeks.

Pickled tripe

A Lancashire lass once told me the story of her grandmother feeding her family “dressed tripe” with salt, vinegar, white pepper and bread and butter when they were sick. (It didn’t make them sick, you understand, it was what they called “invalid food” back then.) Made from the first three stomachs of a cow, there are a surprising number of dishes to be made from tripe all over the world. I imagine that like me you have managed to steer well clear of the stuff so far in your life, and I don’t blame you. The thing is, some recipes are actually pretty good, and I think this is one of those.

1kg (2lb 4oz) honeycomb tripe, cut into 10cm (4 inch) squares

500ml (18fl oz) Basic Beef Broth

2 carrots, chopped

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1 faggot of herbs (thyme, bay and rosemary)

1 spice bag (with plenty of cinnamon, star anise and white peppercorns)

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For a basic pickle brine

(Makes 500ml/18fl oz)

440ml (16fl oz) malt vinegar

50g (1¾oz) sugar

10g (¼oz) fine sea salt

1g (a large pinch) freshly ground white pepper

Wrap the tripe in a clean tea towel or a cloth and gently beat it to discipline and tenderize it. Wash the tripe thoroughly, then place in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a simmer, cook for 5 minutes, then drain. Rinse with cold water, then put back into the pan and cover with the Beef Broth.

Add the remaining ingredients except those for the pickle brine. Cover the pan and simmer until the tripe is tender, around 1 hour.

Bring all the ingredients for the pickle brine to the boil and add to the braised tripe and broth, then remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Refrigerate overnight, and serve with bread and butter whenever feeling a little wan and in need of fortification. Lancashire grandmothers knew their stuff.

Slaughter

How an animal has been raised is obviously important, but the stress on it before slaughter, and then the stress that you put on the carcass as it’s handled post-slaughter, are just as damaging – or as beneficial – to the flavour of meat. A farmer’s hard work, good husbandry and passion can be undone with a poorly executed slaughter.

Minimizing the animal’s stress

The well-being of the animal is paramount, but the reasons that a stress-free and humane slaughter is so important are actually two fold: not only do animals deserve to be killed in such a way that they feel no stress, but also the quality of the meat is affected by the stress that a badly run abattoir can produce in the animal. Go about slaughter in the wrong way and you can ruin a perfectly good body of beef, as adrenaline and other stress hormones cause muscles to tense up, making for tough meat. If you ever see a sheen on beef that is almost like an oil spill, along with patches of dark purple, you can be confident that the animal was stressed at the time of slaughter (and possibly beforehand) and that it will make for tough eating.

To keep stress levels at a minimum, cattle should travel as short a distance as possible and be allowed to rest overnight after the journey, to make sure that they are calm. Stress causes adrenaline to flood the muscles, which results in an unpleasant taste and texture in the meat.

Cattle are herded off the truck and through a race, or chute, to be weighed and then put into holding pens. These pens, holding 30–40 cattle each, separate the various grades, and even coat colour, of cattle that have to go through the slaughter facility. This makes it easier for the personnel in the slaughter plant to grade the various carcasses that are processed.

Most facilities employ in-house licensed veterinary surgeons, whose jobs involve witnessing the animals arriving and getting unloaded and checking that they are in good health. They also monitor how the animals are handled and whether they are properly stunned before slaughter. Cruelty and incompetence can all be reported, and ultimately the vet has the authority and power to shut down production. It’s the vet’s responsibility to manage meat inspections, health and hygiene and carry out ante-mortem (before death) inspection to detect any evidence of disease. If any such animal is found, a metal ear-tag is placed so as to give special post-mortem scrutiny, but if there is definite and conclusive evidence in the ante-mortem exam that the animal is not fit for human consumption, it is condemned and no post-mortem tests are necessary.

The cattle ready for slaughter are herded out of their holding pen down another race that leads into the plant. It’s important that the cattle are kept in a calm state to avoid adversely affecting the quality of the meat. Cattle that are in a state of anxiety or panic will have darker-coloured meat than cattle that are calm and relatively relaxed. Reaching the kill floor, the cattle are herded into a movable cradle or box chute specially designed to block the animal’s view of what’s going on outside. The box is open above and the sides are high enough that the animal cannot see over them, even if it tries to raise its head. In addition, there is a solid-sided gate at the rear so that the cattle behind do not see what is going on in front of them. This is to help them remain calm and quiet. The animals move single-file into a curved race so that they have no awareness of what is in front.

Slaughtering stages

A two-stage process for the slaughter of animals is used in most countries. The first stage of the process, usually called stunning, renders the animal unconscious, but not dead; in the second stage, the animal is killed. This ensures that the animal is dispatched quickly and cleanly with the minimum of stress.

Stunning

Each animal is brought from the outdoor holding shed into the stunning pen individually. Once it is in the pen, the animal’s head is swiftly secured and a captive bolt inserted into the brain, which renders the animal senseless. Then the animal is released from the restrainer and attached to a hook in the conveyor system that hoists it up. The stunned animal then travels to the proceeding areas to be bled out, skinned, gutted and halved.

Sticking, bleeding out & skinning

The point of a very sharp knife cuts into the animal’s throat and through the dewlap, trachea, oesophagus and jugular vein immediately below the jawline to allow the blood to flow out. The cut can be made perpendicular or parallel to the neck, depending on the standards of the slaughter plant. Animals are bled out before being butchered, because it prevents blood from coagulating in the tissues and making the meat go rancid.

The hind shanks are skinned and removed at the hocks, by inserting beef hooks between the tibia and the tendon that runs from the tip of the hock, freeing the chain on one of the hind legs that had been used to hoist up the animal. The hide is opened along the median line of the belly and is removed from the belly and sides. Down-pullers are used for removing the rest of the hide, including skinning the head.

Removal of the head, limbs, viscera or offal, spine & tail

The head is not severed from the carcass until the hide is completely removed. Until then, the legs, head, breast and aitch (rump) bones are split from the carcass by sawing. All internal organs are removed except the kidneys, and the offal is separated and taken away to other factories or butchers’ shops.

The carcass is then split through the centre of the backbone and the tail is removed. The spinal cord is removed and discarded, and the split carcasses or halves are washed with cold water using a pressure-washer, then allowed to dry.

Chilling & distribution

The carcass is taken through a slow, gradual chilling process – it takes 24 hours to chill fully. Excessively rapid chilling early in the post-mortem can create something called cold shortening (conversion of glycogen to lactic acid) whereby the muscles contract to produce dry and tough meat.

Carcasses are then distributed to butchers and meat merchants where they are refrigerated for two to three weeks to allow the meat to age, before it is broken down into various cuts of beef.

Tournedos Rossini

The Schatzkers’ death-row chicken fried round of beef

Country fried steak

Kimchi hash

Veal chops with fried oysters & lemon parsley mayonnaise

New York veal Parmigiana

Sichuan beef

Stir-fried beef

Fried calf’s brains with fried potatoes & lemon

Fried beef nuggets with kimchi ketchup

Kimchi ketchup

Fried bacon cheese sliders

Fried veal sweetbreads with anchovy cream

Hanging beef

Tournedos Rossini

Tournedos Rossini is one of the most famous steak dishes, and was created and named in honour of the Italian composer Gioachino Antonio Rossini by the 19th-century chef Casimir Moissons, one of his close friends. Rossini was a friend, critic and supporter of many of the greatest chefs of his time, and was recognized as a truly knowledgeable gourmet and an equally accomplished cook. Steak, foie gras, truffles and gravy on toast. It was always going to work.

100g (3½oz) unsalted butter

4 slices of day-old bread

1kg (2lb 4oz) fillet steak, cut into 4 equal pieces

4 x 50g (1¾oz) slices of foie gras

1 fresh black truffle, thinly sliced

200ml (7fl oz) Madeira Gravy

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Heat half the butter in a skillet or frying pan over a medium heat and fry the bread slices on both sides until golden. Arrange the fried bread on a serving platter and set aside.

Season the steaks, then heat the remaining butter in the skillet, still over a medium heat, and cook them for about 3 minutes on each side, until medium-rare. Remove from the pan, loosely cover with foil and allow to rest in a warm place for 10 minutes.

Clean the skillet and heat it again, this time over a high heat. Season the slices of foie gras and sear for 1 minute on each side until deep golden brown.

Place a steak on each bread slice, arrange the foie gras on top and cover with the thinly sliced truffle.

Heat the Madeira Gravy and pour over to serve.

The Schatzkers’ death-row chicken fried round of beef

“This is the height of simplicity. But damn it’s good. You need a thinnish cutlet off a braising cut. The best is inside round (the equivalent British cut is rump) – the cut Germans use for rouladen. Basically, slice it about half an inch thick, then whack it down with a hammer or, my preference, the side of a cleaver. You don’t want it scaloppini thin – not nearly. You just need to hurt it a bit, because that loosens up the fibers. Season with salt and pepper, then dredge it in flour. Then fry in a hot iron pan with plenty of fat. You want to get the outside browned before the inside overcooks. As far as fat goes, I’ll leave that in your very capable hands. I guess you could use vegetable oil if that’s all you have – I have, works fine – but I suspect lard is going to be better, or beef fat if you can get it. Serve it with mashed potatoes. And smother the fucker in fried onions. I can’t stress how important it is to have loads and loads of them. Most people just don’t make enough. I like to pre-fry the onions, then do the beef in that pan. This is similar to a chicken fried steak, but less seasoning, and a lesser cut. You could make a pan gravy, but I prefer without. Also, you need really good beef for this dish – using intensively-farmed meat will just leave you wondering why on earth I suggested this.” – Mark Schatzker

2 onions, sliced

50g (1¾oz) beef dripping

200g (7oz) inside round (rump)

1–2 tablespoons plain flour

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

mashed potatoes, to serve

Madeira Gravy, to serve

Fry the sliced onions in half the beef dripping until golden, then set aside. Do not wash the pan.

Slice the beef round about 1cm (½ inch) thick, then whack it down with the side of a cleaver. You just need to hurt it a bit, because that loosens up the fibres.

Season the beef with salt and pepper, then dredge in the flour.

Heat the remaining dripping until smoking and fry the floured meat until the outside is browned but the inside is still rare, flipping it over to colour both sides. Spread the fried onions over the top and flip again, pressing the onions down into the meat.

Remove from the pan and serve onion side up, with mashed potatoes and Madeira Gravy.

Country fried steak

Lamesa, the county seat of Dawson County in Texas, claims to be the birthplace of country fried steak and hosts an annual celebration. Its origins are attributed to 19th-century German and Austrian immigrants who brought recipes for Wiener schnitzel to Texas from Europe. As always, use good-quality beef and do not be tempted to use any other cooking fat.

4 fillet tails or “filet mignon”, around 200g (7oz) each

100g (3½oz) beef dripping or bacon grease, for frying

hot pepper sauce, to serve

For the seasoning mixture

25g (1oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

5g (⅛oz) cayenne pepper

5g (⅛oz) garlic powder

5g (⅛oz) onion powder

5g (⅛oz) freshly ground black pepper

5g (⅛oz) paprika

For the seasoned flour

150g (5½oz) plain flour

50g (1¾oz) panko breadcrumbs, ground fine

20g (¾oz) rice flour

20g (¾oz) cornflour

First, prepare the seasoning mixture: combine all the ingredients in a mortar and pestle, and grind to a powder.

Flatten out the fillet tails with a mallet to make 1cm (½ inch) thick steaks and season them liberally, using just over half the seasoning mixture.

Mix all the ingredients for the seasoned flour together and combine with the remaining seasoning mixture. Place in a shallow tray.

Prepare a shallow bowl of cold water. Dip the steaks into the cold water, then coat well in the seasoned flour. Repeat this process once again.

Heat half the beef dripping or bacon grease in a cast-iron skillet or heavy-based frying pan over a medium-high heat. Shallow-fry the steaks, 2 at a time, until golden brown, then briefly drain on kitchen paper and serve hot, with hot pepper sauce.

Kimchi hash

This is really just a variation on bubble and squeak, but with the added oomph and spice of kimchi. It makes a great side for grilled steak, and is a perfect brunch dish in its own right. The trick is to take your time with long, slow, gentle frying and constant attention, tossing from time to time until it’s crispy and golden all over.

50g (1¾oz) beef dripping

250g (9oz) baked potato or leftover Roast Potatoes

250g (9oz) Kimchi

50g (1¾oz) bone marrow, chopped

100g (3½oz) braised beef (leftover Braised Short Ribs, Daube de Boeuf or Brasato al Barolo), chopped into bite-sized pieces

4 free-range eggs

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas Mark 4.

Heat half the dripping in a skillet until hot, then add all the ingredients, except the eggs, and cook until crispy and golden, turning or tossing from time to time.

Season liberally and place in the preheated oven for 10 minutes.

While the hash is in the oven, fry the eggs in the other half of the dripping until just cooked but crispy on the outside edges.

Remove the hash from the oven and serve with fried eggs on top.

Veal chops with fried oysters & lemon parsley mayonnaise

Oysters have been eaten with meat in England for centuries, mostly because they were once so cheap and freely available that they made the meat go further in times of austerity. Times have changed, but this still works well because the flavour elements of fried crumbed protein combined with juicy grilled meat are really rather familiar, even if the exact delivery method is somewhat unorthodox.

12 oysters

75g (2¾oz) mix of potato starch and plain flour seasoned with salt and pepper

2 free-range eggs, lightly beaten

100g (3½oz) fresh breadcrumbs

4 rose veal chops, 3–4cm (1¼–1½ inches) thick (300g/10½oz each)

oil, for frying

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

For the lemon parsley mayonnaise

1 unwaxed lemon

100ml (3½fl oz) good-quality mayonnaise

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

To make the lemon parsley mayonnaise, first boil the unwaxed lemon whole for 20 minutes, then set aside and allow to cool.

Cut the lemon in half and scoop out the flesh, discarding the pith and rind. Discard the seeds and chop the flesh. Mix the mayonnaise with the chopped parsley and the hot lemon flesh and season to taste.

Open the oysters and remove the meat. Pat dry, then dip the oysters first into the seasoned flour, then into the beaten egg and finally into the breadcrumbs. Set aside.

Season the veal chops well, then sear in a little oil in a hot frying pan on both sides until well coloured but still pink. Set aside to rest.

Heat a deep-fat fryer to 200°C (400°F). Dip the oysters into the breadcrumbs for a final time, then deep-fry for a couple of minutes until golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper.

Serve the chops with a pile of fried oysters and plenty of lemon parsley mayonnaise.

New York veal Parmigiana

Originally vegetarian and made with aubergine rather than meat, Parmigiana made its way over with Italian immigrants to America, where this variation appeared. Bloody delicious it is, too.

3 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for frying the escalopes

½ small onion, finely chopped

1 banana shallot, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 bay leaf

400g (14oz) can peeled chopped tomatoes

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

½ teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon dried thyme

100g (3½oz) fresh breadcrumbs

50g (1¾oz) Parmesan cheese, finely grated

finely grated zest of 1 lemon

100g (3½oz) mix of potato flour and plain flour seasoned with salt and pepper

2 large free-range eggs, beaten

1kg (2lb 4oz) veal rump, cut into 4 and beaten to 2cm (¾ inch) thick

8 slices of Provolone cheese

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

To make the sauce, heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat, then add the onion, shallot, garlic and bay leaf and cook until softened. Add the tomatoes and herbs and cook until thickened, about 20 minutes. Season to taste.

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas Mark 4.

To prepare the escalopes, mix the breadcrumbs in a bowl with the Parmesan and lemon zest. Lay out three plates in front of you. Put the seasoned flour on a plate, pour the eggs on to the next and put the breadcrumb mix on the third. Dip the escalopes, one at a time, into the flour, then into the egg and lastly into the breadcrumb mix, making sure to cover every part of the escalope.

Heat a large nonstick frying pan over a medium heat and add a good splash of olive oil. Add your escalopes in batches, adding a little extra oil if needed. Cook for a few minutes on each side, until lightly golden, and transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain.

Place the escalopes in a large shallow dish side by side and spoon a little of the tomato sauce over the top, followed by slices of Provolone cheese.

Bake in the preheated oven for 10 minutes, until golden and bubbling.

Serve with spaghetti or polenta, or as a sandwich in crusty bread.

Sichuan beef

Sichuan is a southwestern Chinese province and is also the name of its hot and spicy cuisine, which makes good and occasionally exuberant use of chilli. The Sichuan pepper itself is not hot or pungent but has a slight lemon flavour that produces a strange tingling, buzzing, numbing sensation, setting the stage for the chilli. It appears to act on several different kinds of nerve endings at once, inducing sensitivity to touch and cold and causing a kind of general pleasant neurological confusion.

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine

6 tablespoons Oyster Sauce (see homemade)

2 teaspoons caster sugar

1 teaspoon freshly ground Sichuan pepper

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

4 tablespoons sunflower oil

800g (1lb 12oz) rump steak, thinly sliced

200g (7oz) spring onions, cut into 2cm (¾ inch) lengths

25g (1oz, or about 4) red chillies, seeds left in and cut into 2cm (¾ inch) lengths, or more if you like it hot

preserved plum, to garnish

steamed white rice, to serve

Combine the soy sauce, Shaoxing rice wine, oyster sauce, sugar, Sichuan pepper, cayenne and 2 tablespoons of the oil in a bowl. Add the beef, mix well, cover and leave to stand for 30 minutes.

Heat the remaining oil in a wok over a high heat. Drain the beef thoroughly, taking care to reserve the marinade. Add the drained beef to the wok and stir-fry for 3 minutes, until caramelized. Tip in the spring onions and chillies and stir-fry until just done and still crisp. Add the reserved marinade and continue to cook until heated through, about 30 seconds.

Serve with grated preserved plum sprinkled over the top and with steamed white rice.

Stir-fried beef

Stir-frying is a Chinese cooking method in which ingredients are fried in a small amount of hot oil in a wok. In recent centuries, stir-frying has spread into the West with Chinese immigrants, and due to its simplicity it is a cooking method beloved by students and singletons alike. It’s actually a great way to keep in maximum nutrients, as well as a lovely bit of crunch.

100ml (3½fl oz) Basic Beef Broth

10g (¼oz) dried orange zest, soaked in hot water, pith removed, zest julienned

10cm (4 inches) fresh root ginger, peeled and sliced thinly across the grain

50ml (2fl oz) light soy sauce

50ml (2fl oz) red wine vinegar

sesame oil, for frying

600g (1lb 5oz) rib-eye steak, cut into thin strips

1–2 tablespoons cornflour seasoned with salt and pepper

10 spring onions, cut into 2cm (¾ inch) lengths

4 garlic cloves, finely sliced

½ bunch (about 15g/½oz) of sweet basil, leaves picked

½ bunch (about 15g/½oz) of coriander, leaves picked

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Bring the broth to a simmer with the orange zest, then add the ginger, soy sauce and vinegar and remove from the heat.

Heat a little oil in a wok until smoking, then toss the beef strips in the seasoned cornflour and quickly stir-fry over a high heat.

Add the spring onions, garlic and herbs, followed by the broth mixture, and remove from the heat.

Serve immediately, while the beef is just cooked and the vegetables are still crunchy. If you must have some carbs, steamed rice is the thing.

Fried calf’s brains with fried potatoes & lemon

Even an adventurous gourmet might draw the line at brains, but those who try speak highly of them. It’s important that they are fresh, so either cook or freeze them on the day of purchase. Brains are rather rich, since they’re loaded with cholesterol, and 500g (1lb 2oz) is more than enough for four people.

1 unwaxed lemon

20g (¾oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

1 calf’s brain, about 500g (1lb 2oz)

½ carrot

½ onion, peeled

½ celery stick

1 tablespoon malt or cider vinegar

1 litre (1¾ pints) water

plain flour seasoned with salt and pepper

1 free-range egg, beaten

100g (3½oz) panko breadcrumbs

100g (3½oz) beef dripping

50g (1¾oz) butter

2 large potatoes, peeled and cut into fine matchsticks

a few rosemary sprigs, leaves picked

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Lemon Parsley Mayonnaise, to serve

Zest the lemon into a mortar, then using a pestle, grind together with the sea salt and set aside.

Wash the brain thoroughly in cold water, then leave to soak in fresh cold water for 10 minutes. Drain, and carefully remove as much as possible of the surrounding membrane and blood vessels. Break into 4 pieces down the natural lines.

Put the vegetables, vinegar and 1 teaspoon salt into a saucepan with the water and bring to the boil. Drop in the brain chunks and, when the water has returned to a boil, cover the pan and adjust the heat to gently simmer for 5 minutes.

Drain, discard the vegetables and let the brain cool completely. When cool, refrigerate for about 10 minutes, or until very firm. Break each piece in half to form 8 smaller pieces. Dust with seasoned flour, then dip into beaten egg and then into the breadcrumbs.

Heat half the beef dripping, to a depth of about 1cm (½ inch), in a skillet over a high heat. When the dripping is hot, slip the breadcrumbed brain pieces into the pan. Fry until crisp and light golden brown, then add the butter, which will foam all over the brains. Remove them from the pan before the foaming butter starts to burn and transfer to kitchen paper to drain. Season with salt and pepper.

Clean out the skillet and heat the remaining dripping. Pat the potato matchsticks dry with kitchen paper, to remove any excess starch. Make sure you’ve got a slotted spoon and plenty more kitchen paper ready. Carefully fry the potatoes in batches for a couple of minutes until golden brown and crisp, adding the rosemary for the last 30 seconds. Using the slotted spoon, remove the potatoes and rosemary from the pan and drain on kitchen paper to soak up any excess dripping. Dust the potatoes with the lemon salt and serve on top of the fried brains with a squeeze of lemon juice and the Lemon Parsley Mayonnaise on the side.

Fried beef nuggets with kimchi ketchup

These are much, much tastier than any chicken nugget could hope to be, and if served as a canapé before a special dinner, or as snack for a party, they will impress. They are molten hot once fried, so resist them for a few minutes before eating.

1kg (2lb 4oz) Braised Short Ribs, or cooked ox cheek or ox tail

½ bunch (about 15g/½oz) parsley

200g (7oz) Ogleshield cheese

100g (3½oz) plain flour seasoned with salt and pepper

3 free-range eggs

150g (5½oz) panko breadcrumbs

beef dripping or sunflower oil, for deep-frying

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Kimchi Ketchup or Chipotle Ketchup, to serve

Drain the braised beef and place the sauce in a pan. Shred the meat roughly into small pieces and add to the pan, then bring to the boil. Reduce to a medium heat and simmer until the sauce has all but reduced, but the meat is still moist. Chop the parsley and add to the pan, then taste, season and taste again until perfect.

Leave the meat to cool, then divide in half. Lay a large sheet of clingfilm on a work surface and spread half the beef out in a neat rectangle roughly 1cm (½ inch) thick. Cut the Ogleshield cheese into fat matchsticks or batons and lay half of them together in a line across the middle of the meat. Roll up the meat into a thick log, using the clingfilm to help you, so that the cheese is encased in the middle of the meat. Wrap tightly in more clingfilm and twist into a log shape. Repeat with the second half of the meat and cheese. Chill in the fridge for a good couple of hours, until firm. Remove the clingfilm and cut into 2cm (¾ inch) discs.

Dip each disc into seasoned flour, then egg, then breadcrumbs, then repeat each stage once more. Heat the dripping or oil to 180°C (350°F) in a deep-fat fryer, and fry the nuggets in batches until golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper for 2–3 minutes, which will allow them to cool a little. Serve with Kimchi Ketchup on the side.

Kimchi ketchup

This sauce goes with Fried Beef Nuggets, but it can also be used in Kimchi Hollandaise, a sauce I’ve always proudly taken credit for. Sadly mistakenly, as a bit of research shows Michael’s Genuine Food and Drink in Miami to be its place of birth. Oh well, it’s genius nonetheless.

100g (3½oz) garlic, sliced

100g (3½oz) fresh root ginger, peeled and sliced against the grain

100g (3½oz) gochugaru (Korean red pepper powder or flakes)

100g (3½oz) salted anchovy fillets

100g (3½oz) salted shrimp from a jar

100g (3½oz) sugar

100ml (3½oz) light soy sauce

200ml (7fl oz) water, or lactic pickle ferment juice if available

Blend all the ingredients to a smooth ketchup.

If lactic pickle ferment juice is used it will of course continue fermenting, so avoid airtight bottles. This keeps in the fridge for up to a week.

Fried bacon cheese sliders

Dude food at its best, or despicable worst, depending on your point of view. This is trashy as hell and as addictive as crack, I imagine.

360g (12oz) minced beef (90 per cent chuck, 10 per cent bone marrow (see The Patty)

70g (2½oz) Danish mozzarella or American burger cheese

2 x 350g (12oz) tubes of ready-to-make croissant dough (from the chiller section in most supermarkets)

12 rashers of smoked streaky bacon

plain flour, for dusting

beef dripping, for deep-frying

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

16 toothpicks

tomato ketchup and sliced Half Sours, to serve

Season the burger mince, then divide into small (about 30g/1oz, or 3cm/1¼ inch diameter) balls and flatten into ½–1cm/¼–½ inch thick patties. Cut the cheese into 1cm (½ inch) cubes and wrap each in burger mince to form a small meatball.

Unravel the croissant dough and, using a cookie cutter, cut out circles about 10cm (4 inches) in diameter. Place 1 meatball in the centre of each circle, wrap in the dough to completely enclose, then pinch the seams to seal.

Wrap each slider with a bacon rasher and gently secure with a toothpick. Place on a lightly floured tray, cover loosely with clingfilm and leave to rest for 1 hour at room temperature.

Heat the dripping in a deep-fat fryer to 170°C (325°F) and fry the sliders in batches for 4–5 minutes, or until the dough is golden brown on all sides. Allow the fat to come back up to temperature before frying subsequent batches.

Drain on kitchen paper, then remove the toothpicks and serve warm with ketchup and sliced Half Sours.

Fried veal sweetbreads with anchovy cream

Sweetbreads are glands situated in the neck or heart of a calf. Those from the “heart” are more spherical in shape, and are surrounded symmetrically by the cylindrical “throat” sweetbreads. They are neither sweet nor bread-like and are classified as offal. Here they are fried crisp and paired with some classic flavours that go well with veal and offal.

500g (1lb 2oz) veal heart sweetbreads

1 thyme sprig

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

beef dripping, for deep-frying

1 lemon, sliced

100g (3½oz) plain flour seasoned with salt and pepper

To serve

2 tablespoons capers

2–3 tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley leaves

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

malt vinegar

100ml (3½fl oz) Anchovy Cream

Soak the sweetbreads in cold water for 4 hours, then drain and rinse under more cold water.

Place the sweetbreads in a saucepan with the thyme, bay leaf and peppercorns. Cover with cold water, bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer for 3 minutes. Drain in a colander and allow to cool slightly, then peel the outer membrane off the sweetbreads and slice them into quarters.

Heat some beef dripping to 180°C (350°F) in a deep-fat fryer.

Toss the sweetbread and lemon slices in the seasoned flour and shake off the excess. Cook in the hot beef dripping for 3 minutes, or until golden brown and crispy all over, then drain on a tray lined with kitchen paper to absorb the excess oil.

Fry the capers and parsley in the hot dripping until crispy and add to the paper-lined tray.

Season the sweetbreads with salt and malt vinegar, garnish with the fried lemon, capers and parsley, and serve with Anchovy Cream.

Hanging beef

Ageing, the process by which meat is hung after slaughter, allows some moisture to escape and to tenderize it. This is known as “hanging” or “dry-ageing”. If beef is eaten fresh it is wet, can lack flavour and can be tough, but ageing it for even just a couple of weeks improves these elements. The technique has been practised for hundreds of years. After falling from favour in the 1960s, it underwent a surge of popularity in the 1990s and continues to be popular among connoisseurs of good beef today. One reason for its return to favour is that we are killing younger cattle, and the meat is more watery in younger animals.

The dry-ageing process

This process involves hanging beef in a controlled environment at 1–3°C (34–37°F); any warmer and the meat may spoil, any cooler and the water in the meat might freeze, stalling any ageing. Beef is hung on the quarter, the largest manageable size possible, where the weight of the quarter assists in the hanging process. Because the water needs to evaporate slowly, the room must be kept to a relative humidity of around 85 per cent, and to prevent bacteria developing on the meat, the room is kept well ventilated, often with fans. This process is monitored at regular intervals to ensure that it is working correctly.

As the water leaves the meat it concentrates the taste, making for a rich and savoury flavour. The meat also starts to break down. There are several theories about how this works (involving whether they are enzymatic or non-enzymatic) but the “calpain theory” of tenderization is recognized as the most probable. The job of calpains in living muscle is to break down proteins to be synthesized into newer proteins, and this process continues after slaughter but without the newer proteins being synthesized. The meat becomes tastier as those proteins are broken down into amino acids, including glutamic acid, which is related to umami. And so you get tender and tasty beef!

Beef’s appearance also changes through the dry-ageing process. The meat will change colour from red to purple and will be much firmer than fresh meat.

The dry-ageing process takes at least two weeks. At this point, the meat will be noticeably tastier, but this length of time also results in a greater chance that the meat will spoil. Furthermore, dry-aged meat shrinks because much of the water has evaporated, and this loss of mass causes the meat to decrease by 10–15 per cent in weight. For these reasons, and because the process requires constant attention and a large room with specific environmental conditions, the price of hung meat is substantial. As a result, meat hanging has lost popularity in intensive meat production. Most butchers will only hang meat for 20–30 days, prioritizing profit over any intensifying of flavour.

Extreme ageing

A few butchers abroad are taking the dry-ageing process further. José Gordon of El Capricho in Spain, for example, ages meat for up to 200 days; the Peruvian butcher Renzo Garibaldi hangs it for up to 300 days; and the Northern Irish meat merchant Peter Hannan ages it for more than 400 days! This method of extreme ageing is practised with prime cuts more often than with full quarters. It’s not for everyone – the meat picks up distinctly funky fermented flavours, and I find that it can mask the flavour of good beef when taken beyond a month or two. Similarly, in the wrong hands it could mask the flavour of inferior beef.

Wet-ageing in vacuum pack

In the 1960s a new process – wet-ageing in vacuum packs – led to the practice of meat hanging being almost stopped entirely. Wet-aged beef incurs considerably less moisture loss, which means in effect it can be up to 20 per cent cheaper than dry-aged. In the wet-ageing process, the meat is butchered then vacuum-sealed and left in the refrigerator to “age”, when in fact it cannot change much if there’s no contact with air and no moisture allowed to escape. It also doesn’t benefit from the weight of the quarter pulling on muscle fibres. The process gives scope to advertise “aged beef” without technically lying, all the while keeping the weight of the product up and the margins high.

Storing uncut steak

Uncut primal muscle can be stored in a designated fridge for a week or so. The best way is to place them on a drip tray with plenty of room and air circulation around them. Do not store anything else at all in the fridge with your steak as it will influence or taint the flavour. In other words, you cannot age steak in a fridge that is used for other food.

Smoked prime rib

Smashed grilled beets

Kale Caesar salad

Kielbasa

Dirty roasted steak

Potato & garlic trencher

Smoked short rib

Barbacoa

Guacamole

Salsa Mexicana

Smoked brisket

Franks or hot dogs

Butchery

Smoked prime rib

I first encountered smoked prime rib at Smitty’s Market in Lockhart, Texas, on a research trip with the Pitt Cue team. As with brisket, you can use a rub, but salt and pepper gives a cleaner, purer flavour that I prefer.

a 3-bone prime rib, chined but untrimmed, around 3kg (6lb 8oz) in weight

70g (2½oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

10g (¼oz) freshly ground black pepper

You will also need

a meat thermometer

To serve

Grilled Portobello Mushrooms

Smashed Grilled Beets

Kale Caesar Salad

Roast Potatoes

Preheat your smoker to 115°C (240°F).

Remove the beef from the fridge 1–2 hours before cooking and let it reach room temperature.

Season the meat heavily all over with the salt and pepper and colour on all sides over a charcoal grill. Place in the smoker with oak wood or chips.

Preheat a smoker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Smoke at 115°C (240°F) for 2–3 hours, or until the internal temperature of the meat reaches 60°C (140°F) – the perfect temperature for prime rib.

As a guide, for medium-rare cook to 55–60°C (130–140°F); medium: 60–65°C (140–150°F), or medium-well done: 65–70°C (150–160°F).

Remove the rib from the smoker and rest in a warm place for at least 30 minutes (the ideal resting temperature is 58–60°C/136–140°F), then carve into single-bone portions, each for 2 to share.

Serve with Grilled Portobello Mushrooms, Smashed Grilled Beets, Kale Ceasar Salad and Roast Potatoes.

Smashed grilled beets

As a fan of live fire cooking, I love these. Roots such as beetroot, sweet potatoes and potatoes take on a wonderful smoky flavour when baked in the dying embers of a barbecue. There’s a trick to cooking in embers: too hot and the beets will burn irretrievably, not hot enough and they’ll be part cooked. It takes practice and common sense.

Serves 4

4 medium red, orange or yellow beetroots, scrubbed, ends trimmed, and greens reserved

8 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

5 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 thyme sprigs, leaves picked

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

2–3 garlic cloves, finely sliced and fried until crisp,

to garnish

Place the beetroots in the dying embers of a barbecue and leave to cook as the fire cools. After a few hours the beetroots should be cooked through. Peel them and press them with your hand to partially flatten them, while keeping them intact.

Season with salt and pepper and toss with half the olive oil. Charcoal-grill until slightly charred and crispy in places.

Whisk the remaining olive oil in a bowl with the vinegar to make a dressing. Trim and discard the thick stems from the beetroot greens and put the leaves into a medium bowl with the thyme leaves. Add some of the dressing, toss to combine, and season with salt and pepper.

Divide the beetroots between 4 plates and garnish with the salad and fried garlic chips.

Kale Caesar salad

Many have tried and failed to improve on a good Caesar salad, and I’m reasonably sure it’s not possible. However, this is my attempt to improve the vegetable of the moment – considered a superfood, kale has appeared on menus everywhere. While I’m not buying the superfood tag, I do think anything that encourages us to eat more green stuff is a good thing.

Serves 4

85g (3oz) mixed baby kale leaves

50g (1¾oz) leftover Trencher, or similar loose-textured bread

10g (¼oz) finely grated Parmesan cheese

8 salted anchovy fillets, to garnish

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

For the Parmesan dressing

50g (1¾oz) finely grated Parmesan cheese

20ml (¾fl oz) Champagne vinegar (or use good-quality white wine or cider vinegar)

1 tablespoon lime juice

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

60ml (4 tablespoons) sunflower oil

20ml (¾fl oz) extra virgin olive oil

To make the dressing, blend the Parmesan, vinegar, lime juice, mustard, salt and pepper in a blender until smooth. With the machine running, gradually add both oils and blend until emulsified and well incorporated.

Wash and pick the baby kale, discarding the tough external leaves. Dry them really well.

Pull the bread into small, rough chunks, then bake at 180°C (350°F), Gas Mark 4 until golden, then season lightly.

Toss the whole baby kale leaves in the dressing and arrange on starter plates. Crunch the baked pulled bread over the dressed leaves, allowing small and medium pieces to fall over the salad. Grate the Parmesan over the top and garnish with the anchovies.

Kielbasa

Kiełbasa is a smoked garlic sausage from Poland that’s usually served with sauerkraut. The process of making kielbasa is similar to that of hot dogs.

500g (1lb 2oz) chuck steak, chopped

500g (1lb 2oz) pork back fat, chopped

5g (about ⅛oz) pink curing salt (93.75% salt, 6.25% nitrate), also called Prague powder No. 1

15g (½oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

10g (¼oz) caster sugar

3 garlic cloves, crushed

5g (⅛oz) English mustard powder

5g (about ⅛oz) freshly ground white pepper

30g (1oz) powdered milk

300g (10½oz) crushed ice

You will also need

2m (6ft 6 inches) hog casing

a mincer with a sausage stuffer attachment

a meat thermometer

sterilized needle

Cut the meat and fat into 3cm (1¼ inch) pieces and chill in the freezer for 1 hour or so, until partially frozen.

Soak the hog casing in cold water for about 1 hour to soften it, and loosen the salt in which it is packed. Place the wide end of the sausage stuffer up against the tap and run cold water through the inside of the casing to remove excess salt.

Combine the salts, sugar, garlic, mustard and pepper, then mix into the meat and fat with your hands. Return to the freezer for about 1 hour.

Fit a fine disk into the mincer and mince the meat into a large mixing bowl. Place the meat in a stand mixer, add the powdered milk and mix on a low speed for 3 minutes, to get the sausage mix to bind properly.

Stuff about 60cm (2ft) of sausage (see method as for Steak Sausages), then pinch off the trailing end and pull off at least 15cm (6 inches) of casing from the stuffing tube. Cut the casing with a knife and immediately pull out another 15cm (6 inches) or so of casing to form the loose end for the next long loop of sausage. This ensures that you will have enough casing to tie off the links. Leave the links untied for now.

Check each long link of kiełbasa for air pockets – you will probably have some. Using a sterilized needle, pierce the casing all around any air pockets. Gently compress the meat in the link from either end. Don’t force it or the casing will burst. When you see no more air pockets, tie off the casings at either end and then tie into 15cm (6 inch) sausages. Hang them in a cool place overnight.

Next day, smoke the links for at least 4 hours, until an internal temperature of 70°C (160°F) is reached, then shock the links in iced water to cool quickly. Hang overnight to dry before eating. They will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

I recommend using metric measures for making this recipe, as it is important to measure all the ingredients, especially the Prague powder, accurately.

Dirty roasted steak

You don’t need to use cloth for this recipe – the steak could be cooked directly on the charcoal or wood – but this is a good gateway to that kind of direct cooking, detailed in Jerked Steak & Cauliflower.

1 stick of fresh horseradish

500g (1lb 2oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

1kg (2lb 4oz) eye barrel of the rib-eye, deckle removed, or fillet barrel or popes eye)

Potato & Garlic Trencher, to serve

You will also need

2 pieces of clean muslin or cotton cloth (large enough to hold the meat), dipped in cold water and wrung out

butcher’s string

a meat thermometer

Light a charcoal barbecue or grill, leaving the griddle bars off.

Grate the horseradish and mix with the salt. Arrange the muslin or cotton cloth on a work surface and spread the salt mixture out on top so that it extends to 1cm (½ inch) away from the edge.

Place the meat on top of the salt at the far end of the cloth. Roll the cloth and salt around the meat – the idea is to make a compact roll. Secure the ends of the roll with butcher’s string, then tie in the middle, followed by another 2 ties between the middle and the ends – you are aiming to form a tight cylindrical packet.

Lay the packet right on the coals, knot sides up. Grill for 9 minutes. Using tongs, turn the package over and grill for another 9 minutes. The cloth should burn – it’s meant to.

Using a meat thermometer and inserting it through the cloth and the salt into the centre of the meat, check the temperature. When it’s at 60°C (140°F), take it off the heat; it should be cooked medium-rare.

Transfer the charred packet to a metal platter and allow to rest for at least 10 minutes.

Tap the packet hard with the back of a large, heavy chef’s knife – the burnt shell should crack and come off. Brush any excess salt off and transfer the meat to a clean platter. Slice and serve on Potato & Garlic Trencher.

Potato & garlic trencher

Medieval in origin, trenchers were used before plates were commonplace, and if I get my way they will find favour again in grill restaurants.

Makes 4

For the sourdough

750ml (1¼ pints) water

200g (7oz) sourdough starter (either make your own, see How to Make a Starter, or, better still, steal one with some maturity)

800g (1lb 12oz) strong white flour

200g (7oz) strong wholewheat flour

20g (¾oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

200g (7oz) beef dripping, with jelly if possible

For the trencher

1 garlic bulb, cloves peeled

2–3 tablespoons olive oil

10 fingerling or Anya potatoes

6 spring onions

50g (1¾oz) butter, melted

2 teaspoons fennel seeds

Maldon sea salt flakes and crushed black pepper

Garlic Butter, to serve

Reserve 50ml (2fl oz) of the water, and pour the rest into a large bowl along with the starter and both flours. Mix until a dough has formed. Place the dough in a large plastic container, cover loosely and leave to rest for 30 minutes – this allows the protein and starch in the dough to properly absorb the water.

Combine the salt and the remaining water together and mix into the dough with your fingers. Cover loosely and set aside to rise at room temperature for 3 hours, still in the plastic container. Every 30 minutes during the 3 hours, turn and fold the dough inside the plastic container, using wet hands.

Liberally grease the base and sides of four 20cm (8 inch) cast-iron skillets or ovenproof frying pans, or two 27 x 37cm (10¾ x 14½ inch) shallow roasting tins, with the beef dripping. Divide the dough into 4 equal pieces and press them down into the skillets or roasting tins – the dough should be about 2cm (¾ inch) thick. Cover loosely with clingfilm and leave to do the final prove overnight in the fridge.

Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas Mark 7 and remove the proved sourdough from the fridge.

Cook the peeled garlic cloves in the olive oil over a medium-low heat until just tender. Cook the potatoes until just tender in boiling salted water and drain. Slice the garlic cloves, potatoes and spring onions and press on to the surface of the bread.

Brush with melted butter, and sprinkle with fennel seeds, salt and crushed black pepper. Bake for 30–35 minutes, until golden brown, then leave to cool on a wire rack while you cook your meat.

When required, place the bread on a charcoal grill or in a hot oven to add a smoky flavour and heat through, then return to a cast-iron dish and dress with a spoonful of melted garlic butter and a spoonful of roast meat juices. Serve sliced grilled meats on top of the trencher to soak up more meat juices.

HOW TO MAKE A STARTER

Making a starter begins by making a culture – this happens when flour and water are combined and wild yeasts and bacteria present in the flour and the air begin to ferment. Once this happens you begin to feed this culture.

First put 200g (7oz) of rye flour into a jar, add an equal weight of tepid bottled water, mix well and cover with muslin. Put the jar somewhere warm and wait. Stir the mixture occasionally. After a few days you should start to see bubbles forming and the mixture beginning to rise or prove. This is your sign that wild yeasts have moved in. If nothing has happened after a week, throw it all out and try again.

After another day or so, once your starter is smelling sweet, bursting with bubbles and puffed up, it will be ready for feeding. Discard at least half of your original mixture before stirring in more flour and water. For a healthy starter, you need to at least double the quantity of culture with each feed, so this time add at least 100g (3½oz) flour and the same weight of water.

Once your starter has proved again, it’s ready to use. Take as much as your recipe calls for, then give what’s left another good feed and place it in the fridge, where your starter will continue to thrive but will need feeding less often, perhaps once a week.

Reduce your starter before every feed, either by baking with it or simply by throwing some away. This makes for a more vigorous culture, while also keeping the volume under control.

Smoked short rib

Another incredibly popular barbecue classic from Texas – this time the simplicity of salt and pepper is eschewed for a beef rub and a “slather” – a liquid glaze to brush over it.

50g (1¾oz) mustard

50ml (2fl oz) barbecue sauce

50ml (2fl oz) Madeira Gravy

50g (1¾oz) beef dripping

1.5kg (3lb 5oz) short ribs, sawn in half widthways through the bone

50g (1¾oz) Basic Beef Rub

You will also need

a meat thermometer

Mix the mustard, barbecue sauce, Madeira Gravy and beef dripping in a pan and bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly. This is your “slather”, or mop.

Brush the ribs with half this mixture and dust liberally with the rub, making sure every part is covered. Bang the ribs to remove the excess rub. The rub should seem quite wet now.

Preheat a smoker to 110°C (230°F) according to the manufacturer’s instructions and add some lightly soaked oak wood. Place the ribs in the smoker for 8 hours, or until an internal temperature of around 90°C (195°F) is achieved. The inevitable stall will happen, but carry on smoking regardless.

Take the ribs out when they reach 90°C (195°F)– the temperature will continue to rise even after they have been removed from the smoker.

Cut between the ribs into 4 portions and brush with the remaining slather mixture. Place on a charcoal grill to colour the ribs, and serve with a salad of your choice.

Barbacoa

Barbacoa originated in the Caribbean and is the root of the word “barbecue”. It’s usually made with a whole cow’s head buried in a pit, but even I would struggle to find a whole head, so I’ve adapted it to suit modern tastes and availability of ingredients. If, however, you did find yourself with a whole head to cook, there are plenty of tasty bits to be rooted out with a bit of persistence. Barbacoa is now associated with Texas ’cue, hence the more Tex-Mex style of garnish.

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 tablespoons Maldon sea salt flakes

1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper

1 tablespoon ground cumin

a pinch of ground cloves

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1kg (2lb 4oz) ox cheek

200ml (7fl oz) Basic Beef Broth

100ml (3½fl oz) Chipotle Ketchup

100g (3½oz) beef dripping

juice of 1 lime

To serve

tortillas

Guacamole

Salsa Mexicana

You will also need

a meat thermometer

Mix the garlic, salt, spices and oregano together to make the rub. Coat the ox cheek with three-quarters of the rub, then cover and leave overnight in the fridge. Set the rest of the rub aside.

Preheat a barbecue or smoker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Smoke the ox cheeks at 110°C (230°F) for 4 hours, until an internal temperature of 90°C (194°F) is reached when the meat is tested with a meat thermometer or until tender and yielding to the touch.

Meanwhile prepare the sauce. In a saucepan bring the Basic Beef Broth, Chipotle Ketchup, beef dripping and lime juice to the boil, then simmer until reduced by half.

Shred the ox cheek just before serving and mix with the reduced sauce, then season with the extra rub and serve with warmed tortillas, Guacamole and Salsa Mexicana.

Guacamole

This can be found in supermarket aisles the world over but they all contain preservatives by necessity, so making your own fresh guacamole is infinitely preferable.

Serves 4

1 large avocado

1 ripe tomato

½ red onion, peeled and finely chopped

juice of 1 lime

1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped

2 tablespoons chopped coriander

Maldon sea salt flakes

Peel and stone the avocado and chop the flesh into 1cm (½ inch) pieces.

Cut a cross on the underside of the tomato and cover it with boiling water. Leave for 30 seconds to loosen the skin, then peel, deseed and finely chop the flesh. Add to the avocado along with the chopped red onion, lime juice and chilli.

Add the chopped coriander and gently mix to combine. Season to taste and serve immediately.

Salsa Mexicana

Freshly made Salsa Mexicana loaded with fresh chillies is ubiquitous in Mexico, and it’s eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Serves 4

4 large ripe tomatoes

4 green chillies

½ red onion, peeled and finely chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

2 tablespoons chopped coriander

juice of 1 lime

Maldon sea salt flakes

Cut a cross on the underside of the tomatoes, place in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave for 30 seconds to loosen the skin and then peel, deseed and finely chop the flesh.

Deseed and finely chop the chillies and mix with the tomatoes, red onion and garlic. Add the chopped coriander and the lime juice and gently mix together. Season to taste and serve immediately.

Smoked brisket

In Texas, barbecue is about beef, and specifically brisket. Rich in connective tissue, it requires low-and-slow cooking to relax the muscle into melting tenderness – a pleasure that cannot be achieved quickly. In Texas they tend to season with just salt and pepper, which I approve of wholeheartedly, but you can use the Basic Beef Rub if you prefer.

3–4kg (6½–9lb) brisket, packer or point end cut

70g (2½oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

10g (¼oz) freshly ground black pepper

1 litre (1¾ pints) water

100ml (3½fl oz) cider vinegar

50ml (2fl oz) light muscovado sugar

You will also need

a meat thermometer

Preheat a smoker for indirect cooking at 115°C (240°F) according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Season the brisket heavily all over with the salt and pepper, and place fat side up in your smoker. Leave completely alone for 3 hours.

Combine the water, vinegar and sugar, stirring until the sugar dissolves.

After 3 hours, start periodically checking the colour of the brisket every 30 minutes or so. If it starts looking dry or going too dark, start spraying with a spritz of the vinegar mixture (this is called a gastrique in French cooking).

At 6 hours your brisket will hit “the stall”, where it appears to stop cooking when the internal temperature reaches about 70°C (158°F)– this is when the moisture in the beef begins to evaporate, cooling the beef and therefore stalling its cooking progress. This is perfectly normal, so do not worry or do anything different.

Around 9 hours in, the beef should have reached 90°C (195°F). Give it a prod – it should have a wobble. When it reaches 90°C (195°F) the brisket should be removed from the smoker and wrapped in large sheets of greaseproof paper until needed.

The brisket contains 2 separate muscles: the “flat” and the “point”. These muscles run in different directions, at a right angle from each other. They can simply be pulled away gently from each another by working your knife, or your fingers, between them. The fat will be so soft that it requires little effort, but be careful, it will be very hot. Now slice against the grain of both the flat and the point.

Smoked brisket is best served in white bread sandwiches with caramelized onions, Texas-style.

Franks or hot dogs

Frankfurters originated in Germany, where they were originally made with pork. Later, beef was added and eventually an all-beef version appeared in America. The term “dog” has been used for sausages since the 19th century, when the suspicion that sausage-makers used dog meat was common, and occasionally justified.

500g (1lb 2oz) aged beef flank

500g (1lb 2oz) aged beef shoulder

125g (4½oz) beef fat

125g (4½oz) bone marrow

15g (½oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

7g pink curing salt (93.75% salt 6.25% nitrate), also called Prague Powder No.1

250g (9oz) crushed ice

10g (1 rounded tablespoon) English mustard powder

2 teaspoons paprika

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

25g (1oz) dextrose

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

40g (1½oz) Fermento, (used as a starter culture, it produces an immediate tangy flavour in semi-dry cured sausage – use dried yogurt powder or buttermilk powder if unavailable)

1 teaspoon finely chopped thyme leaves

You will also need

2m (6ft 6 inches) hog casings

a mincer with a sausage stuffer attachment

a meat thermometer

Chop all the meat, beef fat and bone marrow, then cover and place in the freezer for 1–2 hours until partially frozen.

Tip the meat into a food processor and blitz until finely chopped (you may need to do this in batches depending on the size of your processor bowl).

Add the salts and crushed ice, mix well, then freeze again for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, thoroughly wash and dry the food processor bowl and attachments. Soak the hog casings in cold water for about an hour to soften them, and loosen the salt in which they are packed. Place the wide end of the sausage stuffer up against the tap and run cold water through the inside of the casing to remove excess salt.

Mix the remaining ingredients with the meat and return to the freezer with the food processor bowl and blade. When the hot dog mixture has partially frozen, place it in the food processor and purée until it is as smooth as possible (again, you may need to do this in batches).

Cut the hog casing into 2 lengths and tie a small knot in the end of each. Fit the open end over the tip of the sausage stuffer and slide it on until the tip of the stuffer touches the knot – this stops excess air from getting into the casings. Fit the stuffer on to the meat grinder, or according to the manufacturer’s instructions, or hold the wide end of the stuffer against or over the opening by hand.

Fill the hopper with the hot dog mixture. Turn the machine on and feed in the meat gradually – the sausage casing will fill and gradually inflate. Smooth out any bumps with your fingers, being careful not to push the stuffing out of the casing, and tie off the open end of the sausage tightly by making a knot in the end.

To form the links, hold the entire casing up by its middle and twist it to form the first 15cm (6 inch) link. Twist at the same intervals, going in opposite directions for each sausage to prevent the links unravelling.

To cook, preheat the smoker to 110°C (230°F) and cook the hot dogs for about 1 hour or until an internal temperature of 60°C (140°F) is reached. Chill in an ice bath and refrigerate until needed.

Butchery

More than two million years ago, early man hammered flint into the oldest-known cutting tools to carve up their kill. This early butchery is thought to have served as a major evolutionary force, as it slowly spread through Africa over the next 700 millennia. It is possible that these stone tools drove early human advancement, creating the conditions required for modern mankind to develop. Later, more sophisticated stone tools – hand-axes and cleavers – marked the next generation of tool technology, and mankind reached a level of communication that allowed these techniques to be taught and passed on. There is compelling evidence that the combined skills of butchery and fire-making were the driving factors for human evolution. To put it another way, we owe it all to the butchers and the cooks…

How beef is butchered

Animals are first broken down into larger sections called primal cuts, or “primals” (not the same as “prime cuts”) and some of these can then be portioned into steaks. The carcass is split through the backbone into two sides, and each side is cut between the 12th and 13th ribs into the forequarter and hindquarter. From this point the quarters are usually hung for a minimum of two weeks before being broken down further in a variety of ways, depending on which style of butchery is favoured.

Chuck Taken from the shoulder, chuck contains a variety of muscles including the feather blade. It is sometimes sold as braising steak and is often minced to make burgers because of its almost perfect meat-to-fat ratio of 85:15. It is slightly less tough than the more common stewing steak and so can also be slow-roasted as a tied joint. The butler’s steak (or flat iron steak) comes from the blade, and the seven-bone steak from the chuck eye, demonstrating the versatility of the shoulder. Chuck is one of the most economical cuts available. Its deep, rich flavour and toughness make it a prime candidate for marinating or using in braised dishes such as beef stew or pot roast.

Rib area This area of the cow yields ribs (as you might expect), as well as steak cuts. Larger cuts from this section, such as prime rib, are good for roasting, while short ribs (Jacob’s ladder) taste their finest when braised. Well-marbled with a good amount of internal and external fat, this cut was usually boned and rolled as it makes the perfect roasting joint, until butchers realized that, if you removed the inner “eye” from its surrounding rib cap and bones, you could create a consistently flavoursome steak, now called the rib-eye. It is best hung for around five weeks, although it is often hung much longer. I prefer it cooked between medium and medium-rare, as this renders the fat a little and makes it more digestible. Prime rib is thicker and has a lower Maillard-to-meat ratio, so it tastes less intense and, because of the conductive effect of the bone, also cooks differently.

Loin area Sirloin sits next to the fillet, divided by the T-bone, and can be cooked on this bone, benefiting an occasionally tricky cut of meat. Steaks such as T-bone, porterhouse and entrecôte come from this area. Today, porterhouse is a premium steak cut, recognized as the first and sometimes second cut of the T-bone towards the thick end, purely to obtain the largest diameter of fillet on the steak. Historically in England, however, a porterhouse was a simple bone-in sirloin. Perplexing, I know – throughout the history of butchery this confusion was and still is commonplace. In the US this area is known as short loin.

Fillet Also coming from the loin area, fillet is one of the most popular but also most expensive cuts, because there is only 4–5kg (9–11lb) in each animal. It is the least used muscle and so is suitable for quick cooking on the grill or frying. It is best eaten medium-rare or raw in Steak Tartare or Carpaccio. Chateaubriand, or rump fillet, comes from the thick end of the wedge-shaped fillet. Larger pieces are used for dishes such as Beef Wellington. In the US this cut is known as tenderloin, and is where the filet mignon is located, which is made from the very tip of the pointy end of the tenderloin.

Rump From the back end, or hindquarter, of the animal, rump is a cheaper prime cut than fillet or sirloin, as it’s not quite as tender, although it has a better flavour than either sirloin or fillet. Despite its having a bit of chew, some steak aficionados will eat nothing else. Rump is less prone to becoming rancid when hung and it benefits from more ageing than other cuts, to soften the muscle fibres. It is best cooked medium-rare. In the US, rump is known as sirloin and is subdivided into top sirloin (the best quality) and bottom sirloin.

Silverside & topside Cut from the back of the thigh, silverside was traditionally salted and sold as a boiling joint or salt beef. This very lean piece of meat is now most often sold unsalted as a joint for roasting, although it will be tough if not pot-roasted low and slow to well done. Topside is a very lean round inner muscle of the leg and often has a layer of fat tied around it to baste it and help keep it moist while cooking. Much more suited to roasting than silverside, it should be cooked gently, at around 140°C (275°F). In the US, this area is known as round and is the choice for pot roast. Beef round is traditionally where we find cube steak, and cooks also use round to make burgers and jerky.

Oxtail Once discarded with bones and fat, oxtail is one of the most flavoursome and inexpensive cuts of beef. It is most often sold cut into individual vertebrae. Considered as offal, it will benefit from long and slow braising to release the excellent rich flavour, rewarding you with well-flavoured gravy and gelatinous meat.

Thick flank Also known as top rump, this cut comes from immediately above the hindquarter leg and is good for slow-roasting or braising. Leaner parts can be used for flash-frying or stir-frying, or in burger blends. When boned out, this cut will make a good salt beef. It is also great for quick fire dishes such as Fajitas and is popular in London Broils.

Leg or shin Often sold as braising steak, beef leg or beef shank, this is best suited to long, slow cooking in order to break down the connective tissues and dense fibres. Use it for stews and casseroles. It’s extremely tough and full of connective tissue and so is mostly used for making stock, soups and stews.

Thin rib One of the denser forequarter cuts, thin rib is usually sold as minced (ground) beef.

Brisket From the lower chest area, brisket is suitable for slow-cooking or pot-roasting and is the go-to cut for an army of barbecue smokers. It is the cut that is traditionally cured and turned into pastrami, salt beef and corned beef, and it is also used for lean minced (ground) beef. Brisket is another tough cut commonly seen in pot roasts and on the barbecue. Slow-cooking methods are the way to go with brisket, because low and slow allows the meat to become extra tender.

Clod & sticking, or neck From the middle of the shoulder, this economical cut is rich and flavourful but less tender. Usually it is sold as stewing steak or used in burgers. It is also suitable for slow-cooking in braises.

Cheek or jowl This great cut is similar in flavour to oxtail. It is most often used in braises such as Daube de Boeuf, but could also be smoked low and slow and then sliced by a skilled live fire cook. Tough and flavourful, it is well suited to heavy marinating and braising.

British butchery

American butchery

How to cut steaks

If you’ve stored your steak as described in Storing uncut steak, you will, of course, need to cut it into steaks. To do this, you will need a large, clean chopping board, a clean tea towel and a sharp, curved 25cm (10 inch) butcher’s knife. You cannot cut steak well with a straight-bladed chef’s knife, as the blade will not contact the chopping board at the proper angle. A butcher’s knife needs to be very sharp – a sharp knife is less likely to cut you than a dull one, as you will not have to use undue force to cut with it. Butcher’s knives are dangerous, and common sense is key. The knife, the meat and the chopping board should all be dry.

A common mistake is to put the meat on the block with the fat on top, thinking it looks “right side up”, but that is incorrect. The fat is much harder and denser than the meat, so it needs to be on the bottom, with the softer meat exposed. If the fat is on the top, you need to exert more effort to get the knife through it, and the meat suffers (is compressed) underneath. When the meat is on the top, the knife glides into it with the hard fat supporting it, and you can then press the knife into the fat at the end of the cut, and get a clean edge against the board.

To begin cutting the steaks, place the knife at the top of the meat and lean over the top of it. You will see the meat curving away from the knife, and you’ll also be at the perfect angle to check whether the cut is straight. Press the knife forward into the meat, trying not to saw. You may have to cut in a very slight fan pattern in order to make up for the natural shape of the meat.

Always clean as you go – both your board and your knife – and have a clean tray and butcher’s paper or peach paper ready to receive the cut steaks as you work.

How to store cut steaks

Steak keeps best in whole pieces, but once cut it can be stored for a short time in trays at around 5°C (41°F). Individual steaks should be layered with butcher’s paper or peach paper, with clingfilm over the top of the last paper. They can then be stored in the refrigerator. It’s important to note that steak does not continue to “age” once butchered and portioned, and after a couple of days it will start to deteriorate.

Boiled beef & carrots

Bone marrow dumplings

Beef bourguignon

Bollito misto with salsa verde

Pot au feu

Creamed horseradish

Pot roast

Fillet of beef “à la ficelle”

Ossobuco Milanese

Risotto Milanese

French spaghetti bolognese

My spag bol

Beef a la stroganov

Shabu-shabu

Sukiyaki

British Army beef curry

Burmese beef curry

Beef rendang

Beefsteak & kidney pudding

Chilli con carne

Gulyás (Hungarian goulash)

Sancochado

Salsa criolla

Carbonnade à la Flamande

Daube de boeuf

Pig’s trotter garnish

Braised short ribs

Cheek & tail terrine

Green sauce

Brasato al Barolo

Ox cheek & IPA curry

Paupiettes of veal

Veal blanquette

Oxtail stew

Yemeni akwa

Zhoug

Poutine

Beef dripping chips

Ravioli

Vietnamese beef pho

P’tcha or calves’ foot jelly

Ox bone tea

Beef heart tea

Braised ox tongue salad

Ox tongue with raisins & almonds

Buying beef

Boiled beef & carrots

“Boiled beef and carrots,

Boiled beef and carrots,

That’s the stuff for your ‘Derby Kell’,

Makes you fit and keeps you well.

Don’t live like vegetarians

On food they give to parrots,

Blow out your kite, from Morn ’til night,

On boiled beef and carrots.”

A comedic music hall song from the early 1900s extolling the virtues of this typically Cockney English dish.

1kg (2lb 4oz) joint of silverside beef

1.5 litres (2¾ pints) Basic Beef Broth

2 carrots

1 leek, trimmed

1 onion, peeled

2–3 turnips, peeled

1 faggot of herbs (bay, thyme and rosemary)

1 spice bag (1 star anise, 1 teaspoon fennel seeds, 10 black peppercorns and 2 cloves)

1 x recipe Bone Marrow Dumplings

12 baby turnips, tops trimmed

12 baby carrots, tops trimmed

12 baby leeks, trimmed

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Place the beef in a large pan and just cover with cold water. Bring it quickly to a simmer, then, using a ladle, skim off any scum that rises to the top. As you are doing this, you will also be removing some of the water. Pour in the beef broth and return it to a simmer.

Meanwhile, roughly chop the stock vegetables, then add them to the pan with the faggot of herbs and the spice bag and season lightly. Simmer the beef for about 2 hours, until the meat feels tender when pierced with a sharp knife. If the stock reduces too much, top it up with more water so the meat remains submerged.

When the beef is cooked, remove it from the pan and keep warm. Strain the cooking liquor into a clean pan and bring to a simmer. Add the dumplings, cover and simmer for 20 minutes, then uncover and cook for a final 10 minutes. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and keep warm. Add the baby vegetables and cook for about 3 minutes, until tender.

Slice the beef and season lightly. Serve in warmed bowls with the baby vegetables and dumplings. Strain the stock and pour over to serve.

Bone marrow dumplings

I use these in stews, where they suck up the stock or gravy to make intense gooey balls with a crunchy top. The addition of bone marrow (a superfood – no, really!) ramps up the beefiness of any dish.

Makes 12

250g (9oz) self-raising flour

75g (2¾oz) chilled butter

75g (2¾oz) chilled bone marrow

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Place the flour in a mixing bowl. Using a coarse grater, grate the cold butter and bone marrow into the flour and season liberally. Using your fingers, gently rub the butter and bone marrow into the flour until it begins to resemble breadcrumbs. Add a little of the gravy from your stew (or Basic beef Broth) to help bind it into a dough.

Divide the dough into 12 pieces and gently roll each one into a round dumpling.

Place the dumplings on top of your cooked stew, casserole or braise, and press them down lightly so that they’re half submerged.

Cook in the oven or on the hob, over a medium heat with the lid on, for 20 minutes, then remove the lid and cook for a further 10 minutes.

Beef bourguignon

Literally translated as “Beef Burgundy”, bourguignon is a much-abused dish that is rather delightful if good-quality ingredients are used and shortcuts eschewed. Contrary to what many cooks might tell you, cheap wine is better drunk than cooked with, and this dish will succeed or fail upon the standard of wine used, though perhaps a Grand Cru isn’t necessary.

100g (3½oz) smoked bacon lardons, cut 1cm (½ inch) thick

1 rounded tablespoon plain flour

1kg (2lb 4oz) chuck steak, cut into 4cm (1½ inch) chunks

50g (1¾oz) beef dripping

20 button onions, peeled

20 button mushrooms

3 garlic cloves, crushed

1 faggot of herbs (bay, thyme and rosemary)

75cl bottle of good red Burgundy

250ml (9fl oz) Basic Beef Broth

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Fry the bacon lardons until crispy in a heavy-based casserole over a medium-high heat, then remove to a plate, leaving behind the rendered bacon fat.

Mix the plain flour with plenty of salt and freshly ground black pepper. Toss the beef in the seasoned flour. Add half the dripping to the same casserole and, when melted, add half the flour-coated beef.

Colour the beef in the hot pan, browning the meat generously – this is crucial. Then, using a slotted spoon, remove the beef to the plate with the bacon. Add the remaining dripping and beef and brown as before, then transfer to the plate with the rest of the beef and bacon.

Add the onions to the pan and brown them lightly. Add the mushrooms, cook until golden, then remove both the onions and mushrooms to another plate.

Return the beef and bacon lardons to the casserole with the garlic, the faggot of herbs, the wine and the beef broth. Season, then cover and simmer gently over a low heat or in a low oven (preheated to 140°C/275°F/Gas Mark 1) for a good 1½ hours, until the meat is tender. This is not a recipe to hurry.

Add the onions and mushrooms to the pan and continue cooking for a further 30 minutes. Bourguignon improves if kept, so if you can make it the day before, all the better. Serve with noodles, mash or, even better, La Macaronade.

Bollito misto with salsa verde

A classic northern Italian stew closely related to the French Pot au Feu. The resulting stock can be used to make soup or risotto. Mostarda di Cremona are mustard-spiced candied fruits available from Italian delis and even some supermarkets.

1 whole calf’s tongue

3 litres (5 pints) water

50ml (2fl oz) red wine vinegar

3 carrots, halved lengthways

2 celery sticks, halved

1 onion, peeled

4 cloves

1 faggot of herbs (thyme, rosemary and 2 bay leaves)

1 veal shank, about 2kg (4lb 8oz)

1 beef brisket, about 1.5kg (3lb 5oz)

2 beef cheeks

4 beef sausages

Mostarda di Cremona and freshly grated horseradish, to serve

For the salsa verde

a handful of parsley leaves

a handful of mint leaves

a few basil leaves

1 garlic clove

1 tablespoon capers

3 anchovy fillets

extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Blanch the tongue by covering it with boiling water and simmering for 30 minutes. Drain, cool, then peel off the outer skin and membrane.

Pour the water into a large casserole and add the vinegar, carrots and celery. Stick the onion with the cloves and add to the pan with the faggot of herbs and the veal shank. Place over a medium heat and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes.

Add the brisket, beef cheeks, sausages and tongue and simmer for another hour. Remove each piece of meat and arrange on a platter.

To make the salsa verde, finely chop the herbs, garlic, capers and anchovies. Combine in a bowl and add enough extra virgin olive oil to loosen the mixture. Add the vinegar and mustard, and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Thinly carve the meat and serve with Mostarda di Cremona, sea salt, the Salsa Verde and freshly grated horseradish.

Pot au feu

Traditionally, the broth is served first with a bit of nutmeg and the bone marrow, spread on toasted bread. Then the meat and the vegetables are served with coarse salt and strong Dijon mustard, horseradish sauce and pickled cornichons. This strikes me as an entirely civilized way to approach such a dish, and is why we owe so much to the French in terms of gastronomy: they just know how to eat. It is very hard to make this dish in domestic quantities, so I suggest making a large batch and working through it over a week. It keeps well in the fridge.

1kg (2lb 4oz) beef brisket

1kg (2lb 4oz) beef shin

1kg (2lb 4oz) veal shank

500g (1lb 2oz) bone marrow shafts, cut into 8cm (3¼ inch) pieces (ask your butcher to do this)

2 onions, peeled and halved

2 large carrots, halved

1 faggot of herbs (bay leaves, thyme and parsley)

1 teaspoon Maldon sea salt flakes

a few black peppercorns

1 Morteau sausage

For the vegetables

6 carrots

6 medium-small parsnips, peeled

6 leeks

3 celery hearts

18 waxy potatoes, such as Charlotte, peeled

3 onions, peeled and halved

To serve

plenty of toasted sourdough

freshly grated nutmeg

pickled gherkins

Dijon mustard

Creamed Horseradish

Place all the meats and the beef marrow bones in a large saucepan. Cover with cold water, then very slowly bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes, skimming all the time. Add the onions, carrots, the faggot of herbs, salt and peppercorns, return to a simmer, partly cover and cook gently for 2 hours.

Add the Morteau sausage and cook for a further hour, until everything is tender. Allow to cool and refrigerate overnight.

The next day, remove the fat from the top and discard the onions, carrots and faggot of herbs. Carefully strain off the broth through muslin into a large, clean pan, then place back over a medium heat and bring to a simmer.

While the stock is reheating, prepare the vegetables to serve. Trim the carrots and parsnips, leaving them whole. Cut a thin slice from the base of the leeks and trim the tops, then remove the coarse outer leaves, wash thoroughly and split. Trim the celery hearts and cut into quarters through the root. Add all the vegetables to the pot and cook in the broth for 25 minutes, until tender.

Slice the brisket and sausage, pull the meat off the veal shank and beef shin and heat in the broth.

Serve the broth in bowls alongside a pile of toasted sourdough and the bone marrow for spreading. Arrange the meats and vegetables on a platter. Spoon over some broth to moisten, and serve with a grating of nutmeg, pickled gherkins, mustard, Creamed Horseradish and sea salt flakes.

Morteau sausage is a strong-flavoured French smoked sausage

Creamed horseradish

This recipe depends entirely on the quality of the horseradish used. If you can find it growing wild – and it’s not uncommon – then all the better. An obvious partner for roast beef hot or cold, it’s also great with grilled steak, tongue or wherever a little fortitude is called for.

Makes 500ml (18fl oz)

125g (4½oz) fresh horseradish, wild for preference

1 teaspoon Maldon sea salt flakes

25g (1oz) caster sugar

125ml (4fl oz) organic cider vinegar, Braggs for preference

250g (9oz) crème fraîche

Grate the horseradish very finely indeed and mix with the salt, sugar and vinegar. Cover and allow to steep in the fridge for a few hours or overnight, the longer the better.

Remove from the fridge and squeeze out all the vinegar into a bowl, using a damp cloth such as a tea towel or double thickness muslin, taking care not to lose any – the more you can extract, the better the sauce. Once squeezed bone dry, you can discard the horseradish pulp.

Using a small food mixer, or by hand with a whisk, whip the crème fraîche with the infused vinegar until light and fluffy.

Pot roast

An American pot roast is a beauteous thing. A variation on the French dish boeuf à la mode, it is a great way to prepare a tougher cut of beef. The dish is prepared by first browning the beef in meat fat, and then half braising and half roasting in a liquid composed primarily of red wine, with garlic and root vegetables.

2kg (4lb 8oz) beef brisket

250ml (9fl oz) red wine

25g (1oz) beef dripping

3 large onions, peeled and sliced

6 garlic cloves, crushed

1 litre (1¾ pints) Basic Beef Broth

1 faggot of herbs (thyme, rosemary and bay leaf)

3 large carrots, cut into 4cm (1½ inch) chunks

1 tablespoon mustard (optional)

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Onion Gravy

Mashed Potatoes, to serve

To prepare the brisket, using a sharp knife, score the fat in parallel lines, about 2cm (¾ inch) apart, and repeat in the opposite direction to make a criss-cross pattern. Season well, place in a bowl, then pour the wine over the top and let the meat sit at room temperature for 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F), Gas Mark 2.

Heat the beef dripping in a large casserole, then pat the brisket dry (reserving the wine) and brown it gently, fatty side down, over a medium-high heat. When the fat side is nicely browned, turn the brisket over and cook for a few more minutes to brown the other side.

Remove the brisket from the casserole and reserve. Add the sliced onions to the residue of rendered fat and sauté until they are lightly browned, then stir in the garlic and cook for a few more minutes.

Move the onions and garlic to the sides of the pot and nestle the brisket inside. Add the reserved wine, then the beef broth and the faggot of herbs. Season well, bring the broth to a simmer, then cover and place in the oven for 3 hours. Carefully turn the brisket halfway through, so that it cooks evenly.

After 3 hours, add the carrots and cook for another hour or until they are cooked through and the brisket is tender. Take the pot out of the oven, remove the brisket to a chopping board and cover it with foil. Take out and discard the herbs.

Skim the cooking liquor to remove all the fat and return to a gentle simmer, skimming constantly. Taste and correct the seasoning, adding the mustard, if using. Notice the lines of the muscle fibres of the roast: this is the “grain” of the meat. Slice across this grain in 1cm (½ inch) slices. Serve with the carrots, Onion Gravy and Mashed Potatoes.

Fillet of beef “à la ficelle”

A pared-down, luxury version of Pot au Feu with just one piece of meat, a fillet of beef, tied with a length of butcher’s string long enough to grab, so that you can pull the beef from the broth and rightly call the dish “à la ficelle”.

2 litres (3½ pints) Basic Beef Broth

6 small potatoes, peeled and halved

6 small turnips, trimmed, peeled and halved

6 carrots, cut lengthways into 3

6 celery sticks, trimmed and cut into 5cm (2 inch) pieces

6 baby leeks, trimmed

6 shallots, peeled and halved

1kg (2lb 4oz) fillet steak barrel, tied at 5cm (2 inch) intervals, with long strings attached

To serve

Pommery Meaux mustard

Creamed Horseradish

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Bring the beef broth to the boil in a pot large enough to fit the meat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and add the potatoes, turnips, carrots, and celery. After 8 minutes, add the leeks and shallots and cook for a further 8 minutes. When the vegetables are tender, lift them out of the broth and into a large bowl. Cover and set aside while you poach the beef.

Drop the beef into the simmering broth, tying the string loosely to the pot’s handle, and poach for 10 minutes – it will be rare in the centre. Pull the beef from the pot using the string and transfer to a plate, then cover and leave to rest for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, reheat the vegetables in the broth. Cut the beef into slices about 2cm (¾ inch) thick. For each portion, put 2 slices of beef in the centre of a shallow soup plate, surround it with some poached vegetables, and moisten with hot broth. Serve with Maldon sea salt flakes, a black pepper mill, Meaux mustard and Creamed Horseradish on the side, so you can season your own dish.

Ossobuco Milanese

The best-known version of ossobuco hails from Milan, where it is served with saffron risotto, also made with bone marrow. Traditionally accompanied by gremolata – a chopped herb condiment classically made with lemon zest, garlic and parsley – here I’ve taken the small liberty of using orange instead. If you are Italian you’ve probably just thrown this book out of the window…

1 small whole rose veal shank, around 2kg (4lb 8oz)

2–3 tablespoons plain flour seasoned with salt and pepper

75g (2¾oz) beef dripping

50g (1¾oz) bone marrow, chopped

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1 carrot, chopped

1 celery stick, chopped

1 garlic bulb, halved

pared zest and juice of 1 orange

4 sage leaves

300ml (½ pint) white wine

4 plum tomatoes, blanched, peeled and chopped, or 400g (14oz) can chopped tomatoes

300ml (½ pint) veal or chicken stock

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Risotto Milanese, to serve

For the gremolata

finely grated zest and juice of 1 small orange

1 garlic clove, very finely chopped

½ bunch (about 15g/½ oz) of flat leaf parsley, finely chopped

Combine all the gremolata ingredients together and set aside.

Coat the veal shank in seasoned flour, then melt the beef dripping in a large heavy-based pan until hot and brown the veal shank well on all sides until golden and crusted. Set aside on a plate.

Reduce the heat and add the bone marrow to the pan. When melted, add the onion, carrot and celery, plus a sprinkle of salt, and cook until soft. Add the garlic halves, orange zest and sage and cook for a few minutes more.

Increase the heat and add the wine, chopped tomatoes and orange juice to the pan. Return the meat, standing it on top of the vegetables, and bubble until the wine has reduced by half. Pour in the stock and bring to a simmer.

Reduce the heat to its lowest, cover and simmer for 2 hours, carefully turning the meat over every 30 minutes or so, until it is tender enough to cut with a spoon. This can also be cooked in a 140°C (275°F), Gas Mark 1 oven. Serve with the gremolata and Risotto Milanese.

Risotto Milanese

Serves 4

50g (1¾oz) butter

½ onion, finely chopped

1 litre (1¾ pints) Basic Beef Broth

pinch of saffron threads

350–400g (12–14oz) Carnaroli or Arborio rice

100ml (3½fl oz) white wine

50g (1¾oz) bone marrow, chopped

60g (2¼oz) Parmesan cheese, finely grated

50ml (2fl oz) double cream, lightly whipped

Maldon sea salt flakes

Melt half the butter in a large heavy-based saucepan and add the onion. Cook over a gentle heat until the onion is soft without taking on any colour.

Pour the broth into another saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the saffron, reduce the heat and keep it at a simmer.

Add the rice to the onion and stir until the rice looks glossy.

Pour the wine over the rice and onion and stir until it has almost completely been absorbed by the rice. Start adding the saffron broth a ladleful at a time, stirring constantly, only adding more once each ladle has been absorbed. It will take about 20 minutes to stir in all the liquid and for the risotto to cook – it should be soft and creamy but there should be a very slight bite in the centre of each grain.

Once all the broth has been absorbed, stir in the remaining butter, the bone marrow, Parmesan and lightly whipped cream and season to taste.

French spaghetti bolognese

Although somewhat dated, Le Repertoire de La Cuisine (published in 1914) has proved invaluable over the years as a guide to a thousand flamboyant and occasionally extravagant dishes that can easily be updated or reinterpreted by a lively-minded cook. I’ve adapted this example of the gems that lie inside its pages – and note that there’s not a tomato in sight.

400g (14oz) fresh spaghetti

50g (1¾oz) unsalted butter

50ml (2fl oz) double cream

50g (1¾oz) Parmesan cheese, finely grated

1 onion, peeled and chopped

2–3 tablespoons olive oil

300ml (½ pint) Basic Beef Broth

1 small faggot of herbs (thyme, bay, rosemary)

400g (14oz) beef fillet, sliced 1cm (½ inch) thick

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Cook the spaghetti in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain, taking care to keep a ladle of the cooking water, then tip the spaghetti back into the hot pan. Season, add the butter, cream and grated cheese and toss until the spaghetti is coated in a creamy sauce, adding the cooking water to loosen if necessary.

Fry the chopped onion in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, then add the beef broth and the faggot of herbs. Bring to the boil and simmer until the broth has reduced by half.

Season the slices of beef fillet, then sear in the rest of the olive oil in a smoking-hot frying pan. Remove the pan from the heat and pour the hot sauce over the top to finish cooking, removing the faggot of herbs.

Pile the creamy spaghetti on to plates, place the fillet slices on top and serve with the beef sauce on the side.

My spag bol

Two things separate my spag bol from the thousands of versions out there. For one, I don’t use spaghetti! Flat pasta is much better suited to meat sauces, so it’s flat pasta that I use. Second, I toss my cooked pasta in a Parmesan and butter emulsion, creating a separate sauce around it, before topping it with the sauce. The result is the finest spag bol known to man, the kind that’ll get you laid if you cook it for your date.

100g (3½oz) pancetta, chopped

1 large onion, peeled and chopped

1 carrot, chopped

1 celery stick, chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

500g (1lb 2oz) minced beef

250ml (9fl oz) red wine

400g (14oz) chopped ripe tomatoes (canned are fine)

1 bay leaf

500g (1lb 2oz) dried tagliatelle or pappardelle

100g (3½oz) Parmesan cheese, freshly grated

50g (1¾oz) grass-fed butter

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

4 basil sprigs, to garnish

Fry the pancetta over a medium heat until golden, using its own rendered fat. Add the onion, carrot and celery and fry until softened. Add the garlic and cook for a further minute, then increase the heat and add the minced beef. Fry the beef until browned, then pour in the wine, bring to the boil and cook until reduced by half. Reduce the heat under the pan, then stir in the tomatoes and bay leaf.

Season, then cover with a lid and simmer over a gentle heat for 2 hours, until the sauce is rich and thick, stirring occasionally.

Cook the pasta in plenty of boiling salted water, then partially drain, keeping at least a ladle of the cooking liquid. Toss the pasta with half the grated Parmesan, the butter and a little of the pasta cooking water, to form an emulsified sauce. Divide the pasta between plates and pour a ladle of sauce over the top (remove the bay leaf). Finish with a further scattering of cheese, a twist of black pepper and a basil sprig.

Beef a la stroganov

Today’s beef stroganoff bears only a passing resemblance to the dish I enjoyed in Russia some years ago, not least because it seems to have developed a new spelling. My recipe is more akin to the original, a simpler affair served with fried potatoes, not rice. For those among you with working Russian, the original recipe is here:

Говядина по-строгоновски, съ горчицею. За два часа до приготовления взять кусокъ мягкой говядины, нарезать ее, сырую, маленькими квадратиками, посыпать солью и несколько перцомъ. Передъ обедомъ взять пол-осьмушки сливочнаго масла и ложку муки, размешать, поджарить слегка, развести двумя стаканами бульона, прокипятить, положить чайную ложку готовой сарептской горчицы, немного перцу, размешать, прокипятить, процедить. Передъ отпускомъ положить 2 столовые ложки самой свежей сметаны и ложку прожаренного уже томата. На сильномъ огне поджарить говядину с масломъ и лукомъ, положить ее въ соусъ, накрыть плотно крышкою, поставить на ¼ часа на край плиты, вскипятить, подавать.

Выдать: 3 фун. мягкой говядины, соли. 10-15 з. англ. перца, ¼ ф. масла. 1 ложку муки, 2 стол. ложки сметаны. Чайную ложку сарептской горчицы. 1 ложку томата.

600g (1lb 5oz) lean rump or sirloin steak, cut into 2cm (¾ inch) cubes

50g (1¾oz) plain flour seasoned with salt and pepper

50g (1¾oz) unsalted butter

100ml (3½fl oz) soured cream

50g (1¾oz) Dijon mustard

100ml (3½fl oz) Basic Beef Broth

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

fried straw potatoes or fries, to serve

Season the steak cubes with salt and pepper, then toss in the seasoned flour and shake off any excess.

Heat a nonstick pan over a medium high heat, add half the butter and fry the beef in batches, until browned.

Return all the beef to the pan and add the soured cream, mustard and beef broth. Cook until the sauce coats the meat, then correct the seasoning and serve with the fried potatoes, not rice.

Shabu-shabu

Based on the Chinese hotpot, shabu-shabu was first named in the restaurant Suehiro in Osaka, and is made by submerging thin slices of sirloin or rib-eye in a pot of boiling dashi broth made with kombu. Once the meat and vegetables have been eaten, the leftover broth from the pot is combined with noodles and the resulting soup is usually eaten last.

2 litres (3½ pints) hot water

30g (1oz) packet of dried kombu seaweed

8 shiitake mushrooms, stems removed

½ Chinese cabbage, washed

1 carrot

100g (3½oz) enoki mushrooms, trimmed

500g (1lb 2oz) sirloin steak

350g (12oz) block offirm tofu

pon shabu sauce (a citrus soy, available from specialist shops or online)

4 portions of udon noodles, around 100g (3½oz) dry weight per person

Pour the hot water into a large pot, then add the kombu and place over a low heat. Cut the shiitake mushrooms, Chinese cabbage and carrot into small thin slices and trim the enoki mushrooms. Cut the meat into small thin slices and the tofu into 2cm (¾ inch) cubes.

Before the pot of water comes to the boil, remove the kombu. Using chopsticks, dip the meat and vegetables into the hot stock to cook, then dip in pon shabu sauce and eat. Everyone eating should cook their own, so a tabletop burner or electric pan is useful here, to keep the broth at a bare simmer.

At the end of the meal, add the udon noodles to the remaining broth and allow to cook for a few minutes before finishing the meal by eating the noodles and broth.

Sukiyaki

There are two ways to make this Japanese hotpot-style dish – Eastern, and Western. Here in the Western, or Kansai, style, the meat is cooked first, then the sauces are added. The Eastern style is to add the sauces first.

500g (1lb 2oz) rump steak, thinly sliced into 4cm (1½ inch) squares

250g (9oz) packet of shirataki noodles, washed and drained, cut into 10cm (4 inch) lengths

8 shiitake mushrooms, stems removed

100g (3½oz) enoki mushrooms, trimmed

bunch of spring onions, cut into 4cm (1½ inch) lengths

½ Chinese cabbage, washed and cut into 4cm (1½ inch) wide pieces

150g (5½oz) piece of yaki-dofu (grilled tofu), cut into bite-sized pieces

100g (3½oz) shungiku (chrysanthemum greens), washed and cut into 4cm (1½ inch) lengths

1 tablespoon flavourless oil, such as vegetable oil

For the sukiyaki sauce

80ml (2½fl oz) soy sauce

30ml (1fl oz) sake

30g (1oz) sugar

150ml (¼ pint) water

For dipping

4 pasteurized free-range eggs, beaten

Arrange all the ingredients, except the oil, on a large plate and place the plate on the table. Mix the soy sauce, sake, sugar and water to make sukiyaki sauce. Set an electric pan or a skillet on the table.

Heat the oil in the pan and fry some beef slices, then pour the sukiyaki sauce into the pan. Add the other ingredients when the sauce starts to boil and simmer until everything has softened.

Pick pieces from the pan with chopsticks and dip in the raw egg before eating.

Yaki-dofu and shungiku can be bought in Asian food stores and markets or online.

British Army beef curry

We all love a curry; I have very fond memories of the cans of beef curry that used to be bartered and exchanged with vigour in the British Army. The dish most of us know is made from a commercially prepared mixture of spices dating back to the 18th century. Thought to have originally been prepared by Indian merchants for sale to members of the colonial British Army, no Indian chef worth his salt would entertain using such a curry powder. It is, however, still a delicious preparation.

50g (1¾oz) unsalted butter

1kg (2lb 4oz) chuck steak, cut into 4cm (1½ inch) cubes

2 onions, sliced

3 garlic cloves, crushed

50g (1¾oz) Madras curry powder

600ml (1 pint) Basic Beef Broth

50g (1¾oz) desiccated coconut

100g (3½oz) sultanas

2 ripe tomatoes, peeled, deseeded and chopped

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

Bombay duck (optional)

apple chutney

finely chopped onion

finely chopped fresh mint and coriander leaves

sliced bananas

coconut chips or flakes

poppadoms

steamed rice

Melt the butter in a large, sturdy pan over a medium heat. Season the beef and fry for a few minutes until browned all over, then add the onions and garlic and fry for 5 minutes, or until softened and golden brown. Stir in the curry powder and cook for 1 minute.

Add the broth, followed by the coconut and sultanas. Bring to a simmer, then cover and cook over a low heat, or in an oven preheated to 120°C (250°F), Gas Mark ½ for at least 1½ hours, or until the beef is tender.

Stir in the tomatoes and serve with grated Bombay duck (if using), apple chutney, chopped onion, mint and coriander, sliced bananas, grated coconut, poppadoms and rice.

Bombay duck is a dried fish that is often grated over curry. If you can’t source it simply leave it out.

Burmese beef curry

Influenced by its neighbours India and China, a good Burmese beef curry is characterized by the inclusion of both pumpkin and potato and is flavoured with plenty of ginger. The Burmese eat with their right hand, forming the rice into a small ball with only the fingertips and mixing this with the curry before popping it into their mouths. If served with noodles, chopsticks should be used.

1kg (2lb 4oz) chuck steak

2 large onions, peeled

small bunch (about 30g/1oz) of coriander, leaves picked

2.5cm (1 inch) piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and roughly chopped

2 large garlic cloves

2 red chillies, deseeded and roughly chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

4 tablespoons sunflower oil

350g (12oz) Maris Piper potatoes, peeled and quartered

500ml (18fl oz) Basic Beef Broth

350g (12oz) pumpkin, peeled and cut into 3cm (1¼ inch) chunks

juice of ½ lime

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

cooked rice noodles, or rice, to serve

Trim any excess fat from the meat and cut into 3cm (1¼ inch) pieces.

Chop the onions, then put into a blender with the coriander leaves, ginger, garlic, chillies, cumin, coriander, turmeric and 1 tablespoon of oil and blend to a smooth paste.

Add the paste to the meat and mix well to thoroughly coat each piece, then cover and leave in the fridge to marinate for 2 hours.

Heat half the remaining oil (1½ tablespoons) in a wok or heavy-based frying pan. Add half the meat and, stirring frequently, fry until evenly browned. Remove from the pan and set aside, then add the remaining oil and meat to the pan and fry until brown. Remove the meat from the pan and set aside while you stir-fry the potatoes for another few minutes in the same pan. Set aside.

Return the meat to the pan, add the broth, stir well and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat, cover the pan and cook gently for 45 minutes. Add the potato and pumpkin and cook for a further 45 minutes, or until the meat and vegetables are tender. Taste, add a squeeze of lime juice and correct the seasoning. Serve with rice noodles or rice.

Beef rendang

A caramelized curry dish from West Sumatra in Indonesia, reckoned to be one of the most delicious beef dishes on the planet by a CNN poll. Originally used as a method of preserving excess quantities of meat, this dish has spread throughout Asia due to the migrating culture of its originators, the Minangkabau.

1kg (2lb 4oz) chuck steak

50g (1¾oz) beef dripping

2 cinnamon sticks

2 cloves

2 star anise

50g (1¾oz) desiccated coconut, toasted

500ml (18fl oz) coconut water (the kind sold fresh for drinking)

1 tablespoon tamarind paste

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon kecap manis or light soy sauce

2 kaffir lime leaves

250ml (9fl oz) Basic Beef Broth

juice of 1 lime

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

For the spice paste

100g (3½oz) shallots, peeled

1 garlic bulb, cloves peeled

50g (1¾oz) fresh root galangal, peeled

50g (1¾oz) fresh root ginger, peeled

3 red chillies

3 lemon grass stalks

50ml (2fl oz) water

For the coconut rice

300g (10½oz) basmati rice

700ml (1¼ pints) coconut water (the kind sold fresh for drinking)

First make the spice paste. Roughly chop the shallots, garlic, galangal, ginger, chillies and lemon grass, then place all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse, adding the water to make a fine paste. Set aside.

Cut the beef into 4cm (1½ inch) chunks. Heat a heavy-based pan over a medium heat and add half the dripping. Add the beef, in batches if necessary, and cook on all sides until browned, then remove from the pan and set aside. Add the remaining dripping and the spice paste and fry for 2 minutes, then add the cinnamon, cloves and star anise and cook for a further 2 minutes.

Return the browned beef to the pan, along with the toasted desiccated coconut. Stir well, then add the coconut water, tamarind paste, fish and soy sauces, lime leaves and beef broth and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to a bare simmer, stirring regularly to make sure it doesn’t stick. Cover with a lid and cook gently for 1½ hours, or until the meat is tender.

To make the coconut rice, place the rice and coconut water in a heavy-based pan over a medium heat and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, then cover and cook for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to stand for a few minutes before serving.

Meanwhile, remove the lid from the beef and cook for a further 15 minutes, until just thickened. Add the lime juice, season with salt and pepper and serve with the coconut rice.

Beefsteak & kidney pudding

Steamed meat puddings are traditional British comfort food at its best. Save this for when the evenings are closing in and there’s a chill in the air. The first recipe for steak and kidney pudding appeared in a book by Mrs Beeton, though the dish is far older than the 19th century.

50g (1¾oz) beef dripping, plus extra if needed

1 onion, peeled and halved

1 carrot, halved

500g (1lb 2oz) chuck steak, cut into large chunks

1 whole rose veal kidney

20g (¾oz) plain flour seasoned with salt and pepper

1 leek, trimmed and halved

1 celery stick, trimmed and halved

200g (7oz) button mushrooms, sliced

500ml (18fl oz) Basic Beef Broth

small handful of curly parsley, chopped, plus extra to garnish

½ small bunch (about 15g/½oz) of thyme, leaves picked and chopped

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

steamed kale and potatoes, to serve

For the suet crust pastry

350g (12oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting

175g (6oz) shredded suet

ice-cold water

Heat the beef dripping in a large pan and cook the onion and carrot until they are beginning to caramelize. Remove from the pan and place in a large casserole.

Toss the steak and kidney in the seasoned flour to coat. Add more fat to the pan if necessary, and brown the meat in batches, so it isn’t overcrowded and doesn’t stew in its own juices.

Place all the meat and vegetables in the casserole, cover with the beef broth, season and bring to a gentle simmer, skimming well. Half-cover the pan with a lid and continue cooking gently for 1 hour, until the meat is tender. Remove the meats and vegetables using a slotted spoon and allow to cool. Return the stock to the heat and bring to the boil. Reduce by half, then pass through a fine sieve and leave to cool.

Flake the steak with your fingers and chop the vegetables and kidney. Add the meat, chopped vegetables and chopped herbs to the cooled, reduced stock and reserve.

To make the suet pastry, tip the flour into a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Add the suet and mix to combine. Add ice-cold water, 1 tablespoon at a time, and mix in using a palette or round-bladed knife until the dough comes together. Gather into a ball using your hands, then flatten into a disc, cover with clingfilm and chill until ready to use.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll out two-thirds of the pastry and use it to line a 1.5–2 litre (2¾–3½ pint) pudding basin. Roll out the remaining one-third of the pastry to use as a lid.

Fill the pastry-lined basin with the meat mixture and seal the lid on top by moistening the edges with water. Trim off any excess pastry and cover the top securely with a cloth or foil.

Steam for 2 hours, then turn out carefully and serve with steamed kale and potatoes sprinkled with extra parsley.

Chilli con carne

The original chile con carne consisted of dried beef, suet, dried chilli peppers and salt, which were pounded together, formed into bricks and left to dry, to be boiled in pots while on the trail. Now the official dish of Texas, chilli is the subject of competitions, where contention is rife over the inclusion of beans, which are forbidden by most authorities on the subject. I include them, as I feel they add texture, but accept that to some this recipe is now null and void.

4 tablespoons beef dripping

4 onions, finely chopped

2 red peppers, finely chopped

5 dried habanero chillies, stalks removed, deseeded and crushed

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 teaspoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon dried oregano

800g (1lb 12oz) minced chuck steak

200g (7oz) fresh beef suet

2 x 400g (14oz) cans of plum tomatoes

250ml (9fl oz) Basic Beef Broth

50g (1¾oz) dark chocolate (90% cocoa solids), grated

50ml (2fl oz) good wine vinegar

400g (14oz) can of beans (pinto is my choice)

For the cornbread

300g (10½oz) polenta

300g (10½oz) plain flour

100g (3½oz) light brown sugar

1 teaspoon baking powder

20g (¾oz) Maldon sea salt flakes

200g (7oz) free-range eggs (about 4 large)

480ml (17fl oz) milk

30g (1oz) unsalted butter, melted

beef dripping, for frying

To serve

4 small ripe avocados, mashed

400ml (14fl oz) soured cream

400g (14oz) Cheddar cheese, grated

4 spring onions, chopped

2 limes, cut into wedges

4 large, mild fresh red chillies, finely sliced

½ bunch (about 15g/½oz) of coriander, leaves ripped

Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F), Gas Mark 2.

Heat the dripping in a very large lidded casserole and fry the onions, red peppers, chillies and garlic until they begin to soften. Add the spices and oregano and stir well, then add the minced beef and keep turning it to separate it as the meat browns.

Add the remaining ingredients, stir well, then cover and put into the oven to simmer gently for 2 hours, stirring from time to time.

If you have a double oven you can start the cornbread. Mix the dry ingredients together in a bowl and the whole eggs, milk and butter in another. Combine the 2 mixtures.

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas Mark 4. Heat a cast-iron skillet or oven-proof frying pan over a medium heat, then melt enough beef dripping to give a shallow depth – 2mm (1/16 inch) – and add the cornbread mixture. Let it sizzle and start to cook on the sides, then toss into the preheated oven for 20 minutes, or until a skewer comes out clean when inserted into the cornbread.

Reheat the chilli if necessary and serve the chilli with mashed ripe avocados, soured cream, grated Cheddar, finely chopped spring onions, lime wedges, chopped fresh chillies, plenty of fresh coriander and the cornbread on the side.

Gulyás (Hungarian goulash)

Gulyás is a meat soup seasoned with paprika and caraway and traditionally cooked in a bogrács, or iron kettle, over an open fire. It originated in the 9th century in Hungary, where it was eaten by shepherds who first cooked and flavoured the meat, then sun-dried it and packed it into bags produced from sheeps’ stomachs. It then needed only water to rehydrate – the earliest example of a ready meal.

600g (1lb 5oz) chuck steak, cut into 3cm (1¼ inch) cubes

1 tablespoon sweet Hungarian paprika

2 tablespoons beef dripping

2 onions, peeled and chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1 teaspoon ground caraway seed

1 bay leaf

1 litre (1¾ pints) Basic Beef Broth

2 carrots, chopped

1 parsnip, chopped

2 potatoes, peeled and diced

2 celery sticks, diced

2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped

2 green peppers, deseeded and chopped

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

For the csipetke (pinched) noodles

2 small free-range eggs

170g (6oz) plain flour

pinch of salt

1 teaspoon water

Season the beef with salt, pepper and the paprika. Heat the beef dripping in a large casserole and fry the beef until coloured all over. Add the chopped onions and fry until they get a nice golden brown colour. Add the garlic and the ground caraway seeds, stir well and cook for a further minute. Add the bay leaf, pour in the beef broth, bring to the boil and let it simmer, half-covered with a lid, over a low heat for 30 minutes.

Add the carrots, parsnip, potatoes and celery and season with salt and pepper. Continue cooking for another 30 minutes, then add the tomatoes and green peppers and let it cook over a low heat for a further 30 minutes.

Meanwhile make the csipetke noodles. Whisk the eggs, then add the flour, salt and water and knead to a stiff dough. Flatten the dough between your palms to about 1cm (½ inch) thick, pinch off small, bean-sized pieces, flatten them slightly between your fingers and add them to the boiling soup. Cook for 5 minutes, then serve.

Sancochado

A Peruvian beef hotpot that will delight and surprise. Cook this in summer and serve it with a South American salsa called Salsa Criolla – made with onions, coriander, pickled beetroot, boiled potatoes, avocado, chillies and tomatoes, to brighten the whole dish.

1kg (2lb 4oz) chuck steak

4 celery sticks, roughly chopped, leaves reserved

2 onions, halved

4 potatoes, peeled and halved

2 carrots, halved

500g (1lb 2oz) piece of cassava or yucca root, cut into 4cm (1½ inch) chunks

2 sweetcorn cobs, cut into 5cm (2 inch) chunks

2 small sweet potatoes, peeled and halved

1 small Savoy cabbage, cut into wedges

2 teaspoons picked oregano leaves

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Salsa Criolla, to serve

Put the beef into a large pan and cover well with cold water. Add the celery and onions, season with salt and pepper, then gently bring to a simmer, cover with a lid and cook for 1 hour.

Add the potatoes, carrots, cassava and corn and simmer for a further 20 minutes, until tender. Remove the veg from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Add the sweet potatoes to the pan and cook for 15 minutes, then add the cabbage and cook for a further 15 minutes. Transfer the meat to a board, sprinkle over the oregano and leave to rest for a few minutes. Return the cooked veg to the broth and bring back to the boil to warm through. Divide the veg between your bowls and top with the broth. Slice the beef and add to the bowls with the celery leaves. Serve with Salsa Criolla.

Salsa criolla

Serves 4–6

1 large avocado, peeled and stoned

1 whole pickled beetroot

1 waxy potato, peeled and boiled

1 ripe tomato, blanched, peeled and deseeded

½ red onion, peeled

juice of 1 lime

1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped

small handful of coriander, leaves picked and chopped

100ml (3½fl oz) olive oil

Maldon sea salt flakes

Chop the avocado, beetroot, potato, tomato and onion into 1cm (½ inch) cubes and put them into a bowl.

Gently mix in the lime juice, chilli, coriander and olive oil, and season to taste. Serve immediately.

Carbonnade à la Flamande

The best way to describe this dish is that it’s a sophisticated sweet-and-sour beef stew. Popular in 1970s bistros, it’s been much adulterated – but my version is reasonably authentic, I believe.

250g (9oz) large smoked bacon lardons

1kg (2lb 4oz) boneless shin of beef, cut into 4cm (1½ inch) cubes

1 rounded tablespoon plain flour, seasoned with salt and pepper

50g (1¾oz) beef dripping

6 onions, peeled and chopped

1 faggot of herbs (bay leaves and thyme)

½ teaspoon ground allspice

330ml (10½fl oz) dark Belgian beer

500ml (18fl oz) Basic Beef Broth

2 tablespoons dark brown muscovado sugar

2 tablespoons malt vinegar

200g (7oz) pain d’épice au miel (honey gingerbread, available online orin good bakeries), or pain de mie

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

3 tablespoons wholegrain mustard

50g (1¾oz) Gruyère cheese, grated

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Fry the bacon lardons until crispy in a large, heavy-based casserole over a medium-high heat, then, using a slotted spoon, remove them to a plate leaving behind the rendered bacon fat.

Toss the beef in the seasoned flour. Heat half the beef dripping in the pan and add half the beef. Brown the meat generously – this is crucial – then remove to the plate with the bacon. Melt the remaining dripping and add the remaining beef, browning it in the same way. Remove from the pan with the slotted spoon.

Add the onions and brown them lightly in the fat. Return the beef and bacon lardons to the pan with the faggot of herbs, ground allspice, beer and beef broth. Season, then cover and simmer gently, either over a low flame on the hob or in a preheated oven at 140°C (275°F), Gas Mark 1, for at least 1½ hours, or until the meat is tender.

Skim off any excess fat that has risen to the surface, then remove the faggot of herbs, add the sugar and vinegar and adjust the seasoning.

This is not a recipe to hurry. Carbonnade improves if kept, so if you can make it the day before, all the better. Make it up to the point where the meat has been simmered for 1½ hours and before you top it with the sliced pain d’épice.

Slice the pain d’épice and mix together the butter and mustard. Spread the bread with the mustard butter and lay over the top of the carbonnade, slightly overlapping the slices. Sprinkle with the grated cheese and return to the oven for 30 minutes, until the top is golden and the carbonnade is bubbling. Serve with simple buttered boiled potatoes or French fries.

Daube de boeuf

Daube de boeuf is a Provençal preparation usually served with its garnish of vegetables and bacon, but I’ve also seen it served with pig’s trotters on top.

1kg (2lb 4oz) beef cheeks, trimmed of sinew

50g (1¾oz) plain flour seasoned with salt and pepper

50ml (2fl oz) beef dripping

1 litre (1¾ pints) full-bodied red wine

50g (1¾oz) butter

2 carrots, roughly chopped

1 onion, peeled and roughly chopped

2 garlic cloves

½ bunch (about 15g/½oz) of thyme

200g (7oz) bacon lardons

200g (7oz) button mushrooms

pared zest and juice of 1 small orange

1 litre (1¾ pints) Basic Beef Broth

Pig’s Trotter Garnish

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

cooked carrots and Mashed Potatoes, to serve

Preheat the oven to 110°C (225°F), Gas Mark ¼.

Season the beef with salt and pepper and dust with the seasoned flour. Heat 1 tablespoon of the dripping in a pan over a medium heat and gently sear the beef for 1 minute on each side, until golden. Remove the beef from the frying pan and set aside in a warm place. Add half a glass of the wine to the pan to deglaze, stir and set aside with the beef.

Set a pan over a medium heat and add ½ tablespoon of dripping and ½ tablespoon of butter. Once hot, add the carrots, onion, garlic and thyme and cook for 15–20 minutes.

Put the remaining butter and beef dripping into a separate pan and fry the bacon lardons and button mushrooms for 2 minutes. Add the lardons and mushrooms to the cooked vegetables, stir, then carefully drain any excess liquid from the pan.

Put the remaining red wine into a large saucepan, bring to the boil, then simmer until reduced to remove the alcohol. Put the reduced wine, beef, orange zest and juice and and beef broth into a braising pot and bring to a simmer. Cover with a lid and place in the oven for 2 hours, then add the vegetables and return to the oven for 30 minutes. Once ready, remove the meat and vegetables from the pot and carefully pass the sauce through a sieve into a saucepan. Simmer until reduced by half.

Cut the beef into 4 chunks, put back into the braising pot with the vegetables and the Pig’s Trotter Garnish and pour over the sauce. Return to the oven for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool, then refrigerate until the next day to allow all the flavours to get to know each other.

Next day, reheat the daube for 30 minutes in the oven and serve with carrots and mash.

This dish is at its absolute best when made the day before and cooled, then reheated and eaten the next day.

Pig’s trotter garnish

Some years ago, in a very fine, old-school restaurant, I ate a dish of braised ox cheek, or daube de joue de boeuf à l’ancienne, as it was probably called. Sitting proudly atop three chunks of glistening cheek were three medallions of pig’s trotter: genius. This is that garnish.

Serves 4

2 hind pig’s trotters, deboned

100g (3½oz) onions, chopped, plus 1 small onion, finely chopped

100g (3½oz) carrots, chopped

150ml (5fl oz) pork broth

150ml (5fl oz) dry white wine

1 tablespoon white port

50g (1¾ oz) butter

250g (9oz) pork sausagemeat

Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F), Gas Mark 3.

Begin by preparing the trotters. Put them into a large casserole dish with the onions and the carrots, broth, wine and white port. Cover with a lid and cook in the oven for 3 hours.

Meanwhile, put half the butter into a pan and heat until bubbling. Add the small, finely chopped onion and fry for 5 minutes, then allow to cool. When cool, combine with the sausagemeat.

Remove the trotters from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature.

Once the trotters are completely cool, drain them. Use the remaining butter to butter 2 large sheets of foil and lay a trotter on each piece of foil. Divide the stuffing mix between the trotters, then roll the trotters firmly around the filling to ensure there is no air trapped. Roll up the large sheets of foil to cover and tightly seal the trotters in a neat cyclindrical shape. Put into the fridge to firm up for at least 2 hours.

Remove the trotters from the fridge and, keeping them wrapped in the foil, place them in a steamer. Set over simmering water for 15 minutes, or until cooked through, then unwrap, slice into medallions and use to garnish the Daube de Boeuf.

Braised short ribs

A simple base recipe upon which to build other dishes, short ribs were known as Jacob’s Ladder in England and until recently were damned hard to find. Happily, most good butchers carry them now.

20g (¾oz) beef dripping

2kg (4lb 8oz) beef short ribs, cut into 4 x 500g (1lb 2oz) rib portions

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1 carrot, chopped

1 celery stick, chopped

2 garlic cloves, sliced

250ml (9fl oz) red wine

2 litres (3½ pints) Basic Beef Broth

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 140°C (275°F), Gas Mark 1.

Heat the dripping in a heavy-based frying pan. Season the ribs and add to the pan. Brown all over, then transfer the ribs to a large casserole pan or a large, deep roasting tin. Add the vegetables and garlic to the frying pan, let them lightly brown, then add to the ribs.

Pour the red wine and broth over the ribs, bring to a simmer, skim off any froth that has risen to the surface and cover with a lid or foil.

Place in the oven for about 4 hours, or until tender. Turn the ribs halfway through cooking.

Remove from the oven and leave to cool for 30 minutes to allow any fat to rise to the surface. Skim the fat, then transfer the ribs to a dish or bowl and strain the cooking liquor through a sieve and into a clean saucepan. Discard the vegetables, then place the cooking liquor over a medium-high heat, bring to the boil and reduce by half, skimming off any fat as you go.

Pour the reduced sauce back over the short ribs. Allow to cool, then cover and refrigerate for use in other recipes in the book, such as pies and La Macaronade. They can of course be served just as they are, with Mashed Potatoes.

Cheek & tail terrine

Based on the French bistro classic terrine de queue de boeuf, this version makes use of lesser cuts from either end of the animal, which pleases me for some reason.

For the terrine

1kg (2lb 4oz) oxtail, cut into pieces and trimmed of excess fat

800g (1lb 12oz) ox cheek, trimmed of sinew

50g (1¾oz) beef dripping

2 onions, peeled and roughly chopped

2 carrots, roughly chopped

4 garlic cloves, crushed

2 litres (3½ pints) Basic Beef Broth

1 faggot of herbs (bay leaves and thyme)

1 small bunch (about 30g/1oz) of parsley, leaves picked and chopped

3 tablespoons lemon juice

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

crusty bread

Green Sauce or Anchovy Cream

Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F), Gas Mark 2.

Pat the oxtail pieces and ox cheeks dry, season with salt and pepper, then brown them in batches in the dripping over a medium-high heat, transferring them as they are browned to a casserole dish. Fry the onions, carrots and garlic until soft but not coloured, then add to the meat with the broth and the faggot of herbs and bring to the boil. Cover with a lid and braise in the preheated oven for 4 hours.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the oxtail and cheeks to a bowl, reserving the liquid. Let them cool, then remove the meat, discarding any bones and fat. Strain the reserved cooking liquid through a sieve into a large bowl.

In another large bowl, stir together the picked meat with the parsley, lemon juice, plenty of salt and pepper, and 400–500ml (14–18fl oz) of the reserved broth until the mixture is combined well, using enough broth to hold the meat together. Reserve any remaining cooking liquid.

Rinse a terrine mould with cold water and pack the oxtail mixture into it, then carefully spoon over some of the reserved cooking liquid to just cover the mixture. Cover the terrine and chill overnight, or up to 2 days in advance.

Let the terrine stand at room temperature for 10 minutes. Run a thin knife around the edge to loosen it, then dip the terrine base into hot water for 20 seconds and place a chilled platter over the top. Invert the terrine with a sharp rap on to the platter and cut into 1cm (½ inch) thick slices with a very sharp, hot knife.

Serve with crusty bread and Green Sauce or Anchovy Cream.

Green sauce

Green sauce is found with variations throughout Europe, where it is often called salsa verde. Parsley is pretty ubiquitous, and basil or tarragon make appearances in Italy and France. My version goes particularly well with steak.

Makes 250ml (9fl oz)

½ bunch (about 15g/½oz) of flat leaf parsley, leaves picked and chopped

½ bunch (about 15g/½oz) of mint, leaves picked and chopped

100ml (3½fl oz) light olive oil, plus extra if needed

2 garlic cloves

2 tablespoons salted capers, rinsed

5 anchovy fillets

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

freshly ground black pepper

Place the chopped herbs in a bowl and cover with the oil.

Peel the garlic and chop with the capers and anchovies. Add to the herbs and mix together.

Stir in the mustard and vinegar, season with black pepper and add more oil to loosen, if necessary.

Brasato al Barolo

1kg (2lb 4oz) piece of chuck roast – ask your butcher to tie it ready for roasting

1 faggot of herbs (thyme, bay and rosemary)

1 spice bag (1 star anise, 4 cloves)

75cl bottle of Barolo wine

3 tablespoons olive oil

3 carrots

2 onions

2 garlic cloves, crushed

50g (1¾oz) unsalted butter

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

finely grated Parmesan cheese, to serve

Place the meat in a dish with the faggot of herbs and the spice bag. Add the wine, then cover and leave to marinate overnight in the fridge, turning the meat after a few hours if it is not completely covered with the wine.

Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F), Gas Mark 2.

Remove the meat from the marinade and dry thoroughly using kitchen paper. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat, brown the meat on all sides, then remove from the pan.

Chop the carrots and onion into 3cm (1¼ inch) pieces. Add to the pan and fry for a few minutes, then add the garlic and fry for a further minute. Pour in all the marinade and season with salt and pepper. Using a slotted spoon, scoop the vegetables into an oval casserole large enough to hold the meat comfortably and add half the butter.

Place the meat on the bed of vegetables, then pour over the marinade and bring slowly to a simmer. Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and transfer to the oven. Cook for 3 hours, until tender, keeping an eye on the meat and turning it from time to time – it should cook at a steady simmer, so reduce the oven temperature to 140°C (275°F), Gas Mark 1 if it appears to be cooking too fast.

Transfer the meat to a chopping board, cover with foil and leave to rest for 10–15 minutes while you make the sauce. Pass the cooking liquid through a fine sieve into a clean pan, pressing the vegetables, faggot and spice bag to extract all the juices. Bring the sauce to a gentle boil, then slide the pan off the heat and whisk in the remaining butter.

Cut the meat into slices about 1cm (½ inch) thick, place in a serving dish, and pour over the sauce. Serve with plenty of grated Parmesan, and polenta or orzotto to soak up the juices.

Ox cheek & IPA curry

It’s said that India Pale Ales were brewed to withstand the rigours of being transported from England to India in the wooden-hulled ships of the time. This ox cheek curry makes fine use of IPA and shows off its character.

1kg (2lb 4oz) ox cheeks

50g (1¾oz) beef dripping

500g (1lb 2oz) onions, peeled and thinly sliced

6 fat garlic cloves, finely grated

2 teaspoons whole fennel seeds

2 black cardamom pods, lightly smashed

1 star anise, freshly ground

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon chilli powder

¼ teaspoon asafoetida

2 teaspoons Maldon sea salt flakes

850ml (1½ pints) IPA (beer)

200ml (7fl oz) Basic Beef Broth

30g (1oz) fresh root ginger, peeled and finely grated

2 tablespoons crème fraîche

1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped

a small handful (about 30g/1oz) of coriander leaves, finely chopped

rotis, to serve

Preheat the oven to 140°C (275°F), Gas Mark 1.

In a large casserole, brown the ox cheeks in half the dripping, then remove and set aside. In the same pot, sweat the onions in the remaining dripping until soft, then add the garlic. Stir, add the spices and salt and gently fry for 30 seconds.

Place the cheeks on top of the onions, then pour in the IPA and the broth and add the ginger. Stir, bring up to a bubble, pop the lid on, place in the oven and cook for 3 hours, until the meat is tender.

Remove the cheeks and put them on a warm plate. Cover and keep warm.

Pop the casserole back over a medium-high heat. Allow the sauce to bubble and reduce to “coating consistency”, then pass through a fine sieve, add the crème fraîche and chopped chilli, and adjust the salt to taste.

Put the cheeks and their resting juices back into the pot, stir gently, bring back to bubbling heat, then serve immediately with coriander and rotis.

Paupiettes of veal

Paupiettes are an old Normandy dish made of meat, beaten thin, rolled around a stuffing, then fried or braised, or baked in wine or stock. They are popular in France, where they are sold ready-prepared in supermarkets and butchers.

16 smoked streaky bacon rashers

2 small onions, peeled and finely chopped

100g (3½oz) wild mushrooms, finely chopped

finely grated zest of 1 small lemon

10g (¼oz) fresh breadcrumbs

½ bunch (about 15g/½oz) of flat leaf parsley, finely chopped

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 free-range egg, lightly beaten

600g (1lb 5oz) veal fillet

1 teaspoon thyme leaves

400ml (14fl oz) Basic Beef Broth

2 garlic cloves, crushed

100ml (3½fl oz) double cream

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Finely chop half the bacon and fry over a medium heat with the onions and mushrooms for about 6 minutes or until nicely browned. Drain and set aside in a medium bowl, returning the bacon fat to the pan. Add the lemon zest, breadcrumbs, parsley, half the mustard and the beaten egg to the bowl, and season with salt and pepper. Mix to combine thoroughly, then set aside.

Cut the veal fillet into 8 even escalopes. Place each piece between 2 sheets of clingfilm and flatten, using a mallet or a rolling pin, then season each piece liberally with salt and black pepper and a few thyme leaves.

Spoon some of the reserved stuffing into the centre of each slice of veal, distributing evenly. Gather the edges up to create a round pouch, then wrap each pouch around its circumference with a bacon rasher and secure with butcher’s string.

Heat the pan of reserved bacon fat over a medium-high heat and brown the veal paupiettes on all sides. Add just enough broth to cover and allow to simmer slowly for 10 minutes. Add the garlic, the cream and remaining mustard to the sauce, then bring to a simmer and serve with a potato dish such as a mash or gratin.

Veal blanquette

Veal consumption is contentious, as it is commonly produced unethically. I buy English rose veal that has been fed on its mother’s milk. It grows more slowly, so it’s over eight months old when it’s slaughtered, and it’s twice as expensive, but it’s delicious and worth it. Old French dishes such as this blanquette de veau, stewed veal in a blanket of lemon-flavoured sauce served with rice, are seldom seen now. That’s a shame: it’s delicious.

1kg (2lb 4oz) breast of rose veal

2 litres (3½ pints) cold water

1 onion, peeled

2 cloves

2 carrots, halved

1 leek, white part only

faggot of herbs (flat leaf parsley, thyme, rosemary and bay leaf)

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground white pepper

For the pilau rice

25g (1oz) unsalted butter

1 onion, peeled and finely chopped

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

300g (10½oz) basmati rice

500ml (18fl oz) veal cooking liquor (see recipe method)

For the onions & mushrooms

24 small button or pearl onions, peeled

24 (about 200g/7oz) small button mushrooms, trimmed

For the sauce

300ml (½ pint) double cream

3 free-range egg yolks

juice and finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon

Cut the veal into 4cm (1½ inch) cubes and place in a large saucepan. Cover with the cold water and bring to a simmer for 30 minutes, skimming occasionally.

Stud the whole, peeled onion with the cloves and add to the pot with the carrots, leek, faggot of herbs and 1 teaspoon of salt and continue to simmer for 1 hour.

For the rice, heat the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat, then add the onion and garlic and fry for about 4 minutes, or until softened. Add the rice and stir well to coat. Pour in 500ml (18fl oz) of the veal cooking liquor, stir well and bring the mixture to a simmer. Cover the pan and cook over a low heat for 20 minutes, until the rice has absorbed the liquid and is tender. Taste and correct the seasoning, then keep warm.

When the veal pieces are tender, pass the remaining cooking liquor through a sieve into another pan containing the button onions. Reserve the veal in a warm place and discard the whole onion, carrots, leek and herbs. Simmer the button onions in the liquor for 10 minutes, then add the mushrooms and simmer for a further 10 minutes.

Strain the cooking liquid from the onions and mushrooms into a clean saucepan and add the onions and mushrooms to the veal. Over a medium heat reduce the cooking liquid by half, then stir in half the double cream and reduce by half again.

Meanwhile, in a bowl, mix together the egg yolks and remaining cream until well combined, and add a little lemon juice.

Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the egg yolk and cream mixture. Return to a low heat and stir continuously for 2 minutes, until the mixture is completely incorporated and the sauce has thickened slightly, to the consistency of a thin custard. Season with salt and pepper, then strain through a fine sieve and pour over the reserved veal, button onions and mushrooms. Serve with the pilau rice, lightly grating the lemon zest over the top.

Oxtail stew

An animal’s extremities, such as tails and cheeks, are still relatively cheap and should not be thrown away. Another of those forgotten cuts, oxtail has its own unique flavour that reminds me of a childhood in my mother’s kitchen. Yes, I know how that reads, but it does.

2kg (4lb 8oz) oxtail, cut into large chunks

2 leeks

2 celery sticks

4 carrots

2 tablespoons plain flour

400g (14oz) can plum tomatoes

½ bottle (37.5cl) of red wine

1 faggot of herbs (thyme, rosemary and bay leaves)

1 litre (1¾ pints) Basic Beef Broth

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

cooked, mashed carrots and parsnips, and steamed greens, to serve

Place a large, deep roasting tray in the oven and preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas Mark 6. When the oven and the tray are hot, put the oxtail into the tray. Season, and roast in the hot oven for about 20 minutes, or until golden and caramelized.

Meanwhile, trim the leeks and celery and halve lengthways, then chop into rough chunks. Peel the carrots and chop into rough chunks. Add the vegetables to the oxtail and roast for another 10 minutes.

Take the roasting tray out of the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 150°C (300°F), Gas Mark 2.

Over a medium heat on the hob, add the flour to the roasting tray, stirring well to combine. Pour in the tomatoes and wine, add the herbs, season, then cover with the beef broth and stir well. Bring to a simmer, cover and return to the oven for around 4 hours, or until the meat falls away from the bone.

Remove the pan from the oven and leave to cool for about 10 minutes. Drain the oxtail and vegetables and pass the sauce through a fine sieve. Return the meat to the pan with the vegetables, discarding the faggot of herbs. Reheat, correct the seasoning and serve with mashed roots and steamed greens.

Yemeni akwa

A traditional Yemeni dish made with oxtail – hence its name, akwa, meaning the thickest part of the tail. Long, low and slow cooking is important here. Serve with Zhoug, a kind of spicy Middle Eastern salsa verde.

50g (1¾oz) beef dripping

1.5kg (3lb 5oz) oxtail, cut up on the bone

1.5 litres (2¾ pints) Basic Beef Broth

1 garlic bulb, cloves peeled

2 large waxy potatoes, peeled and chopped into 5cm (2 inch) chunks

2 large carrots, cut into 5cm (2 inch) chunks

1 onion, peeled and sliced into 5cm (2 inch) chunks

3 large celery sticks, trimmed and sliced into 5cm (2 inch) chunks

400g (14oz) can chopped tomatoes

1 spice bag (1 tablespoon each of coriander seed, cumin seed, cardamom pods and chopped turmeric root)

1 faggot of herbs (bay leaf, parsley and coriander)

1 lemon, cut into wedges

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Zhoug, to serve

Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F), Gas Mark 2.

Heat half the beef dripping in a large frying pan. Season the oxtail pieces and seal all over in the hot pan. Remove the meat, place in a large cast-iron, lidded pot, and add the beef broth. Bring to a gentle simmer, skimming any impurities off the surface.

Add the remaining dripping to the large frying pan, add the garlic, potatoes, carrots, onion and celery, and sauté gently until soft but not coloured.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables to the oxtail, and add the chopped tomatoes, spice bag and faggot of herbs. Cover and place in the preheated oven for 2 hours, until the meat is falling off the bone and the vegetables are soft.

Lift out and discard the faggot of herbs and spice bag, correct the seasoning, and add a squeeze of lemon juice.

Serve with Zhoug and the remaining lemon wedges and sea salt flakes on the side.

Zhoug

Makes 400g (14oz)

250g (9oz) green jalapeño chillies

½ bunch of coriander, chopped

½ bunch of flat leaf parsley, chopped

6 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped

½ teaspoon ground cumin

100ml (3½fl oz) extra virgin olive oil

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Trim, deseed and coarsely chop the chillies.

Blend the chillies, chopped herbs, garlic and cumin to a rough paste in a food processor, and season to taste with plenty of freshly ground salt and pepper. Add the oil and blend to combine. Pack into a glass jar, cover the top with olive oil, and store in the refrigerator for up to a month.

Poutine

Poutine is a Canadian fast food dish first seen in 1950s rural Quebec. It is remarkably similar to the northern English dish of “Chips, Cheese and Gravy”, eaten since 1901, and yet somehow that is considered to have “developed independently of poutine” as opposed to being the dish that inspired the Canadian classic. Whatever the origins, it’s safe to say that the texture and squeak of the cheese curds is an improvement on finished cheese.

75g (2½ oz) leftover braised beef with gravy (such as Braised Short Ribs or Daube de Boeuf

200g (7oz) Beef Dripping Chips

75g (2¾oz) cheese curds

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Bring the braised beef gravy, complete with bits of braised beef, to the boil.

Fry the chips until golden and drain on kitchen paper. Season lightly, then toss with the cheese curds.

Place the chips and cheese curds on a plate or in a bowl and pour the gravy over the top.

Beef dripping chips

Cooking in rendered beef fat is something the English have done for centuries, and chippies up and down the country used to use beef dripping to cook both fish and chips – once tried there is no going back.

serves 4

1kg (2lb 4oz) chipping potatoes, peeled and hand-cut into chips

beef dripping, enough to fill your deep-fat fryer to the required level

malt vinegar

smoked Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Blanch the chips in a pan of salted boiling water for 10 minutes, or until just tender, then drain.

Heat the beef dripping in a deep-fat fryer to 130°C (265°F).

Fry the chips for 8–10 minutes, or until the oil stops bubbling, which means that the moisture has been removed. Remove the chips from the dripping and set aside to drain on kitchen paper.

Increase the temperature of the beef dripping to 190°C (375°F). Put the chips back into the dripping and fry for 4–5 minutes, or until crisp and golden brown. Remove them from the dripping, set aside to drain on kitchen paper and season to taste with smoked Maldon sea salt and ground black pepper.

Lightly spray with malt vinegar and serve.

Ravioli

I grew up eating canned Heinz beef ravioli in tomato sauce, one of the great achievements of the 20th century (the ravioli, not my eating of). This is the dish that canned ravioli was trying to be.

For the pasta

600g (1lb 5oz) “00” flour

4 large free-range eggs, plus 6 free-range egg yolks

1 tablespoon olive oil

pinch of salt

1 free-range egg, beaten, for egg wash

For the filling

400g (14oz) Braised Short Ribs

50g (1¾oz) fresh white breadcrumbs

50g (1¾oz) Parmesan cheese, finely grated

1 free-range egg, lightly beaten

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

a good handful of finely grated Parmesan cheese

40g (1½oz) unsalted butter

First make your pasta. Place the flour in a food processor and slowly add the eggs and yolks, using the pulse button. Lastly add the olive oil and salt and remove from the processor. Knead for a few minutes, then wrap in clingfilm and place in the fridge for an hour to rest.

For the filling, separate the braised meat and sauce. Shred the meat finely and mix with the breadcrumbs, Parmesan, egg, and a few tablespoons of sauce. Taste for seasoning.

To make the ravioli, divide the pasta dough into 4 and, working in batches, use a pasta machine to roll it out thinly (I roll it through the penultimate setting on my machine). Spoon evenly-spaced teaspoons of the filling on the sheet of pasta and eggwash around the filling. Top with another pasta sheet and gently press around the mounds of filling to seal and expel any air. Use a pastry wheel or a cutter to cut out the little mounds to make 8cm (3¼ inch) squares. Make sure each raviolo is well-sealed by taking it in your hand and pressing all round the rim between your fingers, working your way round each one, otherwise they will split during cooking.

Lay the finished ravioli on a floured work surface or tray, and keep covered with a lightly dampened tea towel to prevent them drying out too much, then repeat with the remaining pasta dough and filling.

Cook the ravioli in a large pan of boiling salted water for about 4 minutes, until the pasta is tender. Partially drain the ravioli, reserving a small ladle of the cooking liquid. Toss with the butter to form an emulsified sauce. Serve with reheated braised beef sauce and extra Parmesan.

Vietnamese beef pho

Pho originated in the early 20th century, south-east of Hanoi in the villages of Vân Cù and Dao Cù, Nam ĐỊnh Province, northern Vietnam. It was originally sold at dawn and dusk by roaming street vendors, who shouldered mobile kitchens on carrying poles from which hung two wooden cabinets, one housing a cauldron over a wood fire, the other storing noodles, spices, cookware, and space to prepare the pho. With the 1954 partition of Vietnam, more than a million people fled from North to South Vietnam, taking pho with them. No longer confined to northern culinary traditions, variations in meat and broth appeared, and garnishes such as lime, beansprouts, coriander, Asian basil, hoisin and sriracha sauces became standard fare.

500g (1lb 2oz) beef shin

500g (1lb 2oz) oxtail, cut into 2cm (¾ inch) thick slices

500g (1lb 2oz) chuck steak

500g (1lb 2oz) beef brisket

2 large onions, halved

8cm (3¼ inch) piece of fresh root ginger

2 whole star anise

1 cinnamon stick

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

3 cloves

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

75ml (2½fl oz) fish sauce

Maldon sea salt flakes

2 tablespoons yellow rock sugar

For the garnishes

6–8 servings of pho noodles

500g (1lb 2oz) fillet steak, sliced thinly against the grain

bunch each of coriander, Asian basil and mint

100g (3½oz) trimmed beansprouts

50g (1¾oz) sliced spring onions

2 thinly sliced Thai chillies, or 4 mild chillies

2 limes, each cut into 4 wedges

hoisin sauce

sriracha sauce

Blanch the beef shin, oxtail, chuck steak and brisket: place the meat in a large pot and cover with cold water, bring to the boil for 10 minutes, drain, then rinse thoroughly under cold water.

Charcoal-grill the onions and ginger, turning occasionally, until deeply blackened on all sides, about 10 minutes in total.

Put the blanched meats, burnt onions and ginger back into the pot, add the remaining ingredients, apart from the garnishes, and cover with cold water. Bring to a bare simmer and cook gently for 2 hours, skimming regularly. Remove the chuck steak and brisket and set aside to cool, then refrigerate.

Continue simmering the broth gently for 4 hours more, occasionally topping up with water if needed. Gently pass through muslin, taking care not to disturb any sediment.

Skim the broth and season to taste with extra fish sauce, salt and sugar. Pick the meat from the oxtail and beef shin, and slice the cold chuck steak and brisket.

Prepare the pho noodles according to the packet instructions.

To serve, place the rehydrated noodles in bowls, top with the reheated picked and sliced meat, and pour hot broth over the top. Discard the onion and ginger.

Serve hot, with sliced raw fillet steak, bunches of herbs, beansprouts, spring onions, chillies, lime wedges and the sauces in bowls on the side for people to help themselves.

P’tcha or calves’ foot jelly

Eastern European Jews served p’tcha with chopped eggs on the Sabbath in the 19th century, and Jewish immigrants in the United States continued to prepare the dish as an appetizer a hundred years later. In this age of ease and availability I doubt it is made very often, but it is a tasty use of an underused cut.

2 calves’ feet, cut into 3cm (1¼ inch) slices

2 large carrots, cut into 1cm (½ inch) chunks

1 large onion, peeled and cut into 1cm (½ inch) chunks

5 garlic cloves, crushed

3 hard-boiled free-range eggs, sliced

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

5 lemons, thinly sliced, to garnish

Blanch the calves’ feet by covering in cold water and bringing to the boil, then drain and refresh in cold water. Cover with cold water again, bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 4 hours, skimming from time to time.

Add the carrots and onion, season well with salt and pepper and continue to cook on the lowest possible heat for a further 2 hours, until any adherent meat, cartilage, tendons and ligaments separate easily from the bones.

Pick out the bones and discard, then taste the broth and adjust the seasoning – be generous, as once set, the jelly will lose seasoning. Chop the meat, cartilage, softened tendons and ligaments into small pieces and mix with the garlic. Pass the broth through muslin and allow to cool a little. Pour 1cm (½ inch) of broth into a large flat-bottomed glass dish and refrigerate for 30 minutes, until set.

Place the sliced eggs neatly on top of the set jelly and evenly distribute the meat mixture on top. Over this pour the broth, including the onions and carrots, to a depth of about 4cm (1½ inches).

Place in the refrigerator until set. Any fat on the top of the mixture may be removed by skimming with the edge of a knife after the mixture sets firmly. Once set, the mixture can be cut into cubes and served cold as an appetizer, garnished with lemon slices, with any extra juice squeezed over the top.

Ox bone tea

A thermos of beef tea was traditionally the favoured way to fend off the chill of winter matches for generations of British soccer enthusiasts, and to this day, Bovril dissolved in hot water is sold in stadiums all over England. Bovril beef tea was also the hot drink that Ernest Shackleton’s team drank when they were marooned on Elephant Island during the Endurance expedition. I first came across it at Jonathon Jones’s Anchor & Hope in London some years ago and have been self-fortifying with it ever since.

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 oxtail, cut into thick slices

4 large carrots, chopped

4 large onions, peeled and chopped

4 garlic cloves, chopped

1 spice bag (10 black peppercorns, 1 star anise, 1 bay leaf, 1 sprig of thyme)

2 litres (3½ pints) Basic Beef Broth

5 free-range egg whites

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

black truffles or cooked ox tongue, to garnish

Heat the olive oil in a large pot, then add the oxtail and brown it well all over. Add the carrots, onions and garlic and cook until soft but not coloured. Add the spice bag and the broth and bring to a soft boil, then half-cover the pan and cook for 4 hours at a gentle simmer.

Remove from the heat and strain through a double thickness of muslin cloth. Wash the muslin. Whisk the egg whites until foamy.

Return the tea to the pot and mix in the whisked egg whites. Return to a bare simmer, without stirring, for 30 minutes.

Carefully make a hole in the centre of the egg white “cake” that has formed and ladle the by now clear tea back through the washed muslin.

To serve, reheat, season to taste and garnish with freshly sliced truffles or a julienne of cooked ox tongue.

Beef heart tea

In today’s sanitized market, beef heart is overlooked in favour of neatly packaged easy cooking cuts, and while your butcher may not carry hearts, he can usually get them with a little notice. As anyone who’s tried it can attest, heart is a delicious offal cut, that just requires a little adventurous spirit.

1 beef heart

10g (¼oz) beef dripping

400g (14oz) chopped carrot

400g (14oz) chopped onion

4 garlic cloves

½ bottle (25cl) of Madeira

2 litres (3½ pints) Basic Beef Broth

1 small muslin spice bag, containing 10 black peppercorns and 1 star anise

1 faggot of herbs (thyme, bay and rosemary)

8 free-range egg whites

Preheat the oven to 160°C (325F), Gas Mark 3.

Clean the beef heart and cut it into 4 equal pieces. Mince or finely chop half the pieces of heart and reserve.

Melt the dripping in a casserole and cook the carrot, onion and garlic until softened. Add the Madeira and simmer until reduced by half, then add the beef broth, the spice bag and the faggot of herbs and bring to a simmer. Add the unchopped pieces of beef heart.

Cover with a lid and place in the oven for 4 hours, or until the meat is falling apart. Remove from the oven and drain off all the liquid into another pan, reserving the cooked pieces of beef heart.

Skim the broth well. Whisk the egg whites until foamy and mix with the raw minced heart, then add to the pan of broth. Place the casserole on the stove over a low heat and simmer without stirring for 20 minutes. A “cake” will form on the top of the broth: this is called the clarification.

Remove from the heat and gently strain through a double muslin cloth, a ladle at a time, taking care not to disturb the clarification.

Cut the cooked beef heart into 5mm (¼ inch) dice and place in 8 teacups. Season the beef heart tea to taste and pour it into clean teapots. Serve the teacups at the table, for people to add their own beef heart tea as a starter.

Alternatively the tea could be chilled to a jelly and served in the Victorian manner as an aspic – a much neglected preparation.

Braised ox tongue salad

I wasn’t a fan of tongue until Mr Peng converted me with his version at Hunan in London’s Pimlico. If you think you know and like Chinese food, I urge you to try his restaurant – I know of no better. This is my interpretation of his dish.

1 brined ox tongue, around 1kg (2lb 4oz) in weight

1 litre (1¾ pints) Basic Beef Broth

2 star anise

1 cinnamon stick

Little Gem hearts, to serve

Shaved Vegetable & Herb Slaw, to serve

Soak the tongue in cold water overnight.

Next day, scrub the tongue thoroughly under cold running water until the surface is free of any blood, then soak again in cold, fresh water for another hour.

Preheat the oven to 120°C (250°F), Gas Mark ½.

Place the tongue in a large casserole, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Drain, then refresh under cold running water. Return the tongue to the pan, add the beef broth and spices and bring to a very gentle simmer.

Cover the casserole and place in the preheated oven for 2½ hours, until the tongue is tender.

Remove the tongue from the liquor and allow to cool. Carefully peel – the outer skin should come away easily. Pass the braising liquor through a fine sieve back over the peeled tongue, then cover and refrigerate until needed.

To make the salad, remove the braised ox tongue from the liquor and slice thinly. Serve on a bed of shredded Little Gem hearts, and scatter the Shaved Vegetable & Herb Slaw over the top.

Ox tongue with raisins & almonds

Like other cuts of offal, tongue seems to be falling out of favour with the rise of intensive farming. As meat has become so cheap, we are valuing these cuts less. A shame, as tongue is considered a delicacy in many countries and is often the tastiest part of an animal.

100g (3½oz) raisins

100ml (3½fl oz) Pedro Ximénez sherry

100ml (3½fl oz) Pedro Ximénez vinegar

1 small brined ox tongue, around 1kg (2lb 4oz) in weight, soaked in cold water overnight

2 litres (3½ pints) Basic Beef Broth

2 onions, peeled and sliced

2 carrots, sliced

2 celery sticks, sliced

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 faggot of herbs (thyme, rosemary and bay leaf)

25g (1oz) unsalted butter

100g (3½oz) small wholeblanched almonds

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Mashed Potatoes with Extra Virgin Olive Oil, to serve

Mix the raisins with the PX sherry and vinegar and set aside.

Scrub the tongue thoroughly under cold running water until the surface is free of any blood, then soak again for another hour.

Preheat the oven to 120°C (250°F), Gas Mark ½. Place the tongue in a large pan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil, then drain and refresh under cold running water again. Return to the pan and pour over the beef broth, then add the vegetables, garlic and faggot of herbs, cover the pot and bring to a very gentle simmer. Place in the preheated oven for 2½ hours. The tongue is ready when it turns white and a knife easily pierces the thickest part. This takes around 15 minutes for every 100g (3½oz) of weight.

Remove the tongue and peel off the white layer as soon as the meat is cool enough to touch. While warm, this should come off easily after a few incisions with a sharp knife.

Melt the butter in a small frying pan, add the almonds and fry until golden brown. Add the raisins and 200ml (7fl oz) of the tongue cooking liquor and cook until reduced by half, then correct the seasoning.

Thinly slice the tongue and pour the raisin and almond sauce over the top. Serve with Mashed Potatoes with Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

Buying beef

Much of what we think we know about checking meat for quality is wrong. Some of it is based on what supermarkets have led us to believe good meat should look like, through years of marketing and advertising. Some is based on what the US Department of Agriculture (USDA) tells American citizens in an attempt to promote corn- and grain-fed beef, and the European public has subsequently picked up this information.

Take a good look at your beef. It should be dry, not wet, and should have a good layer of creamy yellow (not white) fat. The meat should be an appetizing deep red colour – muscle that has worked and is therefore tasty is darker than muscle that has not worked.

Marbling

Most experts will tell you that marbling is where the great steak flavour comes from. This idea originated with the USDA, which grades beef by the amount of white and creamy marbling on grain-fed beef. Marbling on grass-fed beef, however, is a pale yellow, if it’s visible at all. Much of the marbling in grass-fed beef is intramuscular fat and is invisible to the naked eye; just because we can’t see it doesn’t make it any less tasty.

Smell

This is the most important characteristic for me. Your nose has evolved to divine information – if meat smells pleasant, it’s good; unpleasant, it’s bad. It really is that simple. Freshly cut steak should have a sweet, slightly meaty smell; meat cut too long ago will have an unpleasant, sour smell, as will anything wet-aged in a bag.

Touch

Good steak should not be wet or sticky to the touch, and it should feel firm rather than soft or mushy.

Colour

Grass-fed beef is a darker red colour than a well-marbled, grain-finished steak. When a freshly cut surface is exposed to oxygen, the myoglobin in the meat makes it turn a bright red hue, known as a “bloom”. If the meat is not freshly cut, bright red indicates it has been kept in an oxygen-free environment such as a vacuum pack. Supermarkets vacuum-pack steaks to keep them fresh-looking, as steak will naturally oxidize and turn from bright red to brownish red as the day goes on. This doesn’t make it bad – those steaks are just as good as the bright red ones – but it’s harder to sell steaks at the end of the day if they’ve turned brownish red.

Labelling

Look carefully at the labels on supermarket meat. Only two of them really mean something: the Soil Association organic symbol and the RSPCA Freedom Food label. There are several others designed to fool people into thinking the meat is farmed well – ignore those.

What to look for

Great beef comes from animals that are grass-fed as nature intended, of a pure breed, free-range, at least two years old (preferably three), hormone-free, growth-promoter-free, and happy: they should have had a short journey to slaughter and have been killed quickly and humanely.

It is possible to buy meat online now, but do some research first, asking questions such as where and how the meat was farmed and how old it was at slaughter. Ask what breed it is – I wouldn’t buy cross-breeds as they grow too quickly at the expense of flavour. Look out for “pure breeds” or “native breeds”. Personal favourites are Dexter, Highland, Angus, Longhorn and Galloway.

If a company can answer these questions to your satisfaction, then place an order. Of course, the best way of all is to buy from a butcher. If he/she can answer those same questions, you have found someone with whom to build a relationship, to love and cherish. Be loyal and faithful to your butcher and they will reward you with untold meaty delights.

A question of priorities

Most of us could afford to spend a little more on our meat but buy less of it – when food is nutrient-dense, we don’t require as much. We could buy meat, eggs and milk produced from animals that have lived their lives on pasture, rather than in cramped, dirty stalls or cages. We could refuse to participate in the brutality that is characteristic of factory farms. It costs more to raise animals properly, the way we used to before farming became industrialized, so we should be willing to pay more to know that the animals we eat were treated well and with respect and to ensure they have been raised humanely.

If wealthy societies were willing to pay a little more for food, we could help ensure that farmers get paid what their produce is worth. We should also pay more for our food because good, tasty food takes time to grow and rear, and time costs money. Historically, people were happy to eat almost any cut from an animal, but these days we have eyes and stomachs mostly for the prime cuts, the easy bits, the luxury foods – fillets, loins, legs, roasts, chops – and we eschew bits that have built up a bit of muscle texture, connective tissue and, as a result, fat and flavour. These cuts are cheap and good value. They do take a little extra cooking skill, but it pays dividends in the end result. There is absolutely no doubt in my mind that slow-grown meat, though a little more expensive, tastes better than cheap, intensively farmed meat.

In a perfect world, we might buy organic where possible, not only for our own health but also to ensure that the land remains healthy for future generations. Pesticides are dangerous for everyone involved, not just us consumers, and they are damaging our soil, water and air. We should be willing to pay more for food that is safely and sustainably grown. Produce grown domestically often costs more than food shipped in from the other side of the world. Nevertheless, we should expect to pay extra for the food that didn’t deplete the world’s fossil fuels to get to us. This is just one small way we can help to reduce pollution.

It’s actually more economical to invest in high-quality (whole, local, organic) food, because it results in improved health for us all. Less will need to be spent on drugs, dentistry, vitamin supplements and medical care. We can either pay the farmer or we can pay the hospital: we should choose to pay the farmer.

Beef Wellington

Steak & ale pie

Cowheel pie

Yorkshire pudding wrap

Yorkshire pudding

Cornish pasty

Empanada Chilena

Hachis parmentier (Cottage pies)

Open lasagne

Persian beef biryani

La Macaronade

Beef & the environment

Beef Wellington

Probably nothing to do with the Duke of Wellington, as this is very much a 20th-century creation, this is a splendid thing to serve for Sunday lunch if you are feeling ambitious. Most recipes call for a layer of foie gras, which is authentic if a little grand – so it’s optional here.

800g (1lb 12oz) fillet steak

1 tablespoon olive oil

250g (9oz) mixed wild mushrooms

50g (1¾oz) unsalted butter

1 large thyme sprig

100ml (3½fl oz) Madeira

250g (9oz) foie gras (optional)

8 slices of dry-cured ham

plain flour, for dusting

1 free-range egg, beaten

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

200ml (7fl oz) Madeira Gravy, to serve

For the rough puff pastry

325g (11½oz) strong white flour

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

325g (11½oz) unsalted butter

150ml (¼ pint) cold water

First make the pastry. Sift the flour and salt into a bowl. Chop the butter, then add to the bowl and rub together to mix – there should still be small lumps of butter. Pour in the cold water and mix to form a firm dough – do not over-mix. Cover with clingfilm and refrigerate for 30 minutes to rest. Turn the pastry out on to a floured board and roll out into a square. There will be small streaks of butter running through the pastry – this is how it should be. Fold the right-hand third of the pastry halfway into the middle and repeat with the remaining left-hand side. Roll out again and repeat the folding process. Wrap the pastry in clingfilm and chill in the fridge for 30 minutes, or until needed.

Preheat your oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas Mark 6.

Season the meat and seal it on all sides in the olive oil in a smoking hot pan. Transfer it to the preheated oven and roast for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, leave to cool, then chill in the fridge.

Meanwhile, finely chop the mushrooms. Heat the butter in a large pan and fry the mushrooms with the thyme sprig over a medium heat for about 10 minutes, stirring often, until you have a softened mixture. Season, pour over the Madeira and cook for a further 10 minutes, until all the liquid has been absorbed. The mixture should hold its shape when stirred. Remove the mushroom duxelle from the pan, discard the thyme and leave to cool.

Slice the foie gras, season, then pan-fry in a hot dry pan.

Overlap 2 pieces of clingfilm on a large chopping board.

Lay the ham on the clingfilm, slightly overlapping, in rows. Spread half the mushroom mix over the ham, then sit the sealed beef on it and spread the rest of the mushroom mix over the beef. Use the edges of the clingfilm to draw the ham around the fillet, then roll it into a sausage shape, twisting the ends of the clingfilm to tighten it as you go. Chill the rolled fillet in the refrigerator while you roll out the pastry.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll out one-third of the pastry to a strip about 3mm (⅛ inch) thick and 4cm (1½ inches) larger on all sides than the beef, ham and mushroom parcel. Place the pastry on a nonstick baking sheet or a baking tray covered with baking parchment. Roll out the remaining pastry to a rectangle about 3mm (⅛ inch) thick.

Carefully unwrap the fillet from the clingfilm and sit it in the centre of the smaller strip of pastry. Place the foie gras on top, then brush the edges of the pastry, and the top and sides of the wrapped fillet, with beaten egg. Using a rolling pin, carefully lift and drape the larger piece of pastry over the fillet, pressing well into the sides. Trim the edges to a rim about 4cm (1½ inches) wide and seal by pinching the pastry between your fingers or pressing together with a fork. Glaze with beaten egg and chill for at least 20 minutes.

Preheat the oven again to 200°C (400°F), Gas Mark 6. Brush the Wellington with a little more egg and cook for about 30 minutes, until golden and crisp. Allow to stand for 10–15 minutes, then serve cut in thick slices, with Madeira Gravy and sides of your choice.

Steak & ale pie

A kind of pie was made by the Egyptians, the early Romans and the ancient Greeks, but the pastry was used for holding the filling, not for eating. By the time the pie arrived in medieval Europe the crust was edible and at some point it had become an integral part, eaten with the filling. There are two kinds of pie: a two-crust pie, and a top-crust pie, which is what we have here.

about 50g (1¾oz) beef dripping

700g (1lb 9oz) chuck steak, cut into large chunks

20g (¾oz) plain flour seasoned with salt and pepper

200g (7oz) smoked bacon lardons

2 onions, peeled and chopped

2 large carrots, chopped

300ml (½ pint) bottle of dark ale

400ml (14fl oz) Basic Beef Broth

1 faggot of herbs (thyme, rosemary and bay leaf)

2 tablespoons brown sauce

1 bone marrow shaft, 7cm (2¾ inches) long

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

For the pastry

500g (1lb 2oz) self-raising flour, plus extra for dusting

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

100g (3½oz) unsalted butter, chilled and grated

100g (3½oz) bone marrow, chilled and grated

about 150ml (¼ pint) ice-cold milk, plus extra for glazing

Preheat the oven to 140°C (275°F), Gas Mark 1.

Heat the beef dripping in a large frying pan over a high heat. Toss the beef in the seasoned flour to coat and sear it in batches, taking care not to overcrowd the pan, until properly browned. Spoon the browned meat into an ovenproof casserole once done.

Reduce the heat slightly, add the lardons, onions and carrots to the frying pan and cook until the bacon fat begins to melt and the onions are golden brown on all sides. Then tip into the casserole.

Pour a little of the ale into the frying pan and bring to a simmer, scraping the base of the pan, then pour the whole lot into the casserole with the meat. Add the rest of the ale, the beef broth, faggot of herbs and brown sauce, then season and bring to a simmer. Cover, put into the oven for 2 hours, then uncover and cook, stirring occasionally, for a further hour, until the meat is tender.

Remove the casserole from the oven, correct the seasoning, remove the herbs and spoon it all into a pie dish. Leave to cool to room temperature.

Meanwhile, make the pastry. Mix the self-raising flour, baking powder and salt in a large bowl. Stir in the chilled, grated butter and bone marrow, then add enough iced milk to bring it together into a dough, using a palette knife to mix. Flatten into a disc, wrap in clingfilm and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Preheat the oven again, to 180°C (350°F), Gas Mark 4.

Lightly dust a work surface with flour and roll out the pastry to about 1cm (½ inch) thick. Place the bone marrow shaft in the centre of the pie, then place the pastry over the pie, pushing down around the edge to seal, and cutting a hole in the middle to allow the bone marrow shaft to protrude. Crimp the pastry edges between thumb and index finger. Brush with milk, then place on a baking tray and bake for about 45 minutes, until golden. Sprinkle with salt flakes before serving.

Cowheel pie

Lancashire is an English county of fine culinary traditions from Bury black pudding and black peas to Lancashire cheese and potted shrimp, its bounty is among the best in the country. Cowheel is a less well-known Lancashire delicacy but should most certainly not be forgotten; it’s eaten cold in jelly with salt and vinegar, or used to add body to stews or pies as below. Desperate Dan was a fan, apparently…

1 cowheel, or cow hoof, split and cut into 4

1kg (2lb 4oz) boneless shin of beef, cut into 5cm (2 inch) pieces

50g (1¾oz) plain flour seasoned with salt and pepper

50g (1¾oz) beef dripping

1 litre (1¾ pints) Basic Beef Broth

2 large onions

2 large carrots

1 garlic clove

free-range egg and milk, for the egg wash

plain flour, for dusting

500g (1lb 2oz) shop-bought shortcrust pastry

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Blanch the cowheel by covering it with cold water and bringing to the boil. Simmer for 30 seconds, then drain and refresh in cold water.

Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F), Gas Mark 2.

Dust the diced beef shin with the seasoned flour and fry in batches in the beef dripping until well browned. Transfer to a casserole, then deglaze the pan with the beef broth and pour into the casserole. Add the cowheel, season, bring to a simmer, then cover and cook in the oven for 3 hours, until tender. Peel and chop the onions, carrots and garlic and add to the casserole, then return to the oven for a further hour.

Pass the contents of the casserole through a sieve into a clean pan, discarding the cowheel bones, which should have by now rendered the braise sticky and unctuous. Return the meat and vegetables to the sauce, place in a pie dish large enough to hold everything and leave to cool to room temperature.

Preheat the oven again to 180°C (350°F), Gas Mark 4.

Roll the shortcrust pastry out on a lightly floured work surface and cover the pie, sealing the edges with a little water. Brush with egg wash and bake the pie for about 30 minutes, until golden brown.

Yorkshire pudding wrap

“Roast beef wrapped in a flat Yorkshire pudding, served with a dipping pot of gravy” is how this is described on the menu at Long Can Hall in Halifax, Yorkshire. It’s a hybrid French dip-burrito-Yorkshire pudding and could easily be dismissed as a gimmick, were it not absolutely bloody delicious! There is a very fine line indeed between madness and genius…

leftover roasting tray with drippings

Basic Beef Broth

Creamed Horseradish or mustard

2 large Yorkshire Puddings

leftover roast beef, shredded

Take your leftover roasting tray and pour in the beef broth. Heat gently and stir and scrape to make a jus, then set aside to keep warm.

Spread horseradish or mustard on each Yorkshire pudding and pile the shredded roast beef at one end. Dress with a little of your prepared jus or gravy and roll into a burrito-like shape. Serve with more jus or gravy on the side, for dipping.

Yorkshire pudding

Despite half my family harking from North Yorkshire and growing up eating Yorkshire puddings every weekend, it took me years to master the perfect pudding. Originally they were cooked underneath roasting meats, to catch valuable meat drippings, and consequently they were much stodgier and heavier affairs. Now they are baked in an oven, the result is more crispy and voluminous, but I still like a soggy bottom soaked in drippings…

free-range eggs, Burford Browns for preference (allow 1 egg per person)

semi-skimmed milk

plain flour

beef dripping

Mix equal quantities BY VOLUME of eggs, milk and plain flour (2 eggs, for example, will make 2 large Yorkshire puddings). Store the batter overnight in the fridge.

Heat the beef dripping in Yorkshire pudding tins until smoking hot and pour in a ladle of Yorkshire pudding batter. If using a large baking tin to make a large Yorkshire pudding, fill to about 4cm (1½ inches) deep.

Bake in a hot oven at 200°C (400°F), Gas Mark 6 for about 20 minutes or until golden brown and risen, then turn over to colour the underneath.

Cornish pasty

I lived in St Mawes in Cornwall for a year and was rather partial to a Cornish pasty or two. The very best example I tasted was at The Gardens of Heligan and it contained a rogue ingredient – mustard. I’ve put it down as optional here, as it’s not really traditional.

For the filling

450g (1lb) good-quality beef, such as skirt

450g (1lb) firm, waxy potatoes

250g (9oz) swede

200g (7oz) onions

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon English mustard (optional)

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground white pepper

For the pastry

120g (4¼oz) vegetable shortening or beef dripping

25g (1oz) cake margarine

500g (1lb 2oz) strong white bread flour, plus extra for dusting

5g (about 1 teaspoon) Maldon sea salt flakes

175ml (6fl oz) cold water

beaten free-range egg, for glazing

To make the pastry, use your fingers to rub the fat lightly into the flour until it resembles breadcrumbs. Transfer the mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer, add the salt and water and mix until the pastry comes together, moves away from the sides of the bowl and becomes elastic. This may take longer than normal pastry, but it gives it the strength that is needed to hold the filling and retain a good shape. Leave to rest for 3 hours in the refrigerator – this is a very important stage, as it is almost impossible to roll and shape the pastry when fresh.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas Mark 4. Chop the beef and vegetables into 2cm (¾ inch) chunks.

Once the pastry is chilled, roll it out on a floured surface and cut out 4 circles measuring 18cm (7 inches) in diameter.

Layer one-quarter of the meat and vegetables on one side of each circle of pastry, adding plenty of seasoning. Mix the butter and mustard together and place on top. Bring the pastry over the filling and crimp the edges together. Crimping is the secret to a true Cornish pasty, but it really has to be taught – it’s almost impossible to describe. Alternatively, just flatten like a turnover and mark with a fork. Glaze the pastry all over with beaten egg.

Place the pasties on a baking tray and bake for 1 hour, or until golden brown. Leave to cool for 30 minutes before eating.

Empanada Chilena

Little pastry pockets called empanadas crop up all over Latin America, Spain and Portugal, and of course a version is found in our very own Cornwall, England. A Chilean pasty is made with beef, onion, hard-boiled egg, olives and raisins, and is called pino in Chile. While national pride dictates that the Cornish pasty be my favourite, I strongly urge you to try this. It is very, very good.

235ml (8½fl oz) milk

300g (10½oz) beef dripping, melted

625g (1lb 6oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting

3 teaspoons Maldon sea salt flakes

3 large onions, peeled and chopped

3 garlic cloves, chopped

½ teaspoon hot paprika

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

400g (14oz) minced beef

100ml (3½fl oz) Basic Beef Broth

150g (5½oz) raisins

150g (5½oz) black olives, chopped

4 hard-boiled free-range eggs, sliced

1 free-range egg yolk, beaten with 2 tablespoons milk for the egg wash

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Warm the milk and add 200g (7oz) of the melted beef dripping. Stir the flour and salt together in a large bowl, then pour the wet mixture into the dry and mix into a dough. Cover and leave to cool, then chill for 2 hours before using.

Heat the rest of the dripping in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, paprika, cumin, cinnamon, salt and pepper, and cook for 8–10 minutes, until the onion is golden. Add the minced beef, stir and cook until completely browned. Drain the fat from the frying pan, add the beef broth and raisins and cook until almost dry.

Stir the olives and hard-boiled eggs into the mixture, then remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F), Gas Mark 5.

On a lightly floured board, roll the dough out to a thickness of about 3mm (⅛ inch). Using a cutter, stamp out 12cm (4½ inch) circles and drop equal portions of the filling into the centre of each. Fold each circle in half and press the edges together with a fork to seal. Brush the tops of the empanadas with the egg wash and arrange on baking paper-covered baking trays.

Bake for about 25 minutes, or until golden brown.

Hachis parmentier (Cottage pies)

We all love cottage pie, and I sometimes use this as a pimped steak side instead of mash and gravy. In early cookery books, it was a means of using leftover meat of any kind, and the pie dish was lined with mashed potato as well as having a mashed potato crust on top. Here I’ve use braised short rib.

1kg (2lb 4oz) large mashing potatoes

1kg (2lb 4oz) Braised Short Ribs recipe

4 tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley

50g (¾oz) chopped bone marrow

1 tablespoon beef dripping, melted

250g (9oz) unsalted butter

250ml (9fl oz) double cream

6 free-range egg yolks

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Place the potatoes on a baking tray and bake in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F), Gas Mark 4 for 45 minutes, or until soft.

Remove the bones from the Braised Short Ribs, then shred all the meat and crush the vegetables. Put the meat and veg from the short ribs into a saucepan. Bring the braising liquor to the boil and pour it over the shredded meat and veg. Reduce by half until it is sticky and thick, then season to taste. Fold in the chopped parsley and bone marrow.

Remove the potatoes from the oven and allow to cool slightly, then scoop out the flesh, leaving a 5mm (¼ inch) layer of potato on the skin. Brush the skins with the beef dripping, season and return to the oven until crispy and golden.

In a separate pan, bring the butter and cream to a simmer. Pass the potato flesh through a mouli or ricer (or use a potato masher) and gradually combine with the butter and cream mix to make a warm mash. Remove from the heat and work in the egg yolks, mashing well. Season to taste, then spoon the finished mash into a piping bag and set aside.

Remove the potato skins from the oven and place on a cooling rack. Spoon the short rib mix into each skin until it is full, reserving some sauce, and pipe the mash on top.

Return to the oven for 10 minutes, or until golden and bubbling, then drizzle a little extra sauce over the top. Serve as a garnish to grilled steak or as a meal in itself.

Open lasagne

Said to be one of the oldest pasta dishes, there is more than one way to make lasagne. This is the individual plated version used in restaurants, less like a cake or pie, and consequently much easier to present on a plate.

8 sheets of fresh lasagne pasta sheets

600g (1lb 5oz) My Spag Bol sauce or ragù

Parmesan cheese, finely grated

extra virgin olive oil

fresh herb leaves (parsley, oregano, basil), to garnish

For the cheese sauce

125ml (4fl oz) milk

15g (½oz) unsalted butter

15g (½oz) plain flour

25g (1oz) Stilton cheese, grated

25g (1oz) Cheddar cheese, grated

25g (1oz) Ogleshield or other washed rind cheese, grated

pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground white pepper

First make the cheese sauce. Pour the milk into a saucepan and bring to a foamy boil, then reduce the heat to low and keep warm. In another saucepan, melt the butter over a medium heat. Whisk in the flour and continue until a smooth, pale “roux” forms.

While whisking steadily, add the hot milk into the roux a spoonful at a time, whisking all the time, and completely incorporate each spoonful before adding the next.

Once all the milk has been added, continue to whisk until the sauce thickens and bubbles gently, about 2 minutes. Add the Stilton, Cheddar, Ogleshield, nutmeg, salt and pepper and stir until completely melted.

Cook the pasta in boiling salted water until cooked through but very slightly al dente, or firm to the touch.

Heat the sauce or ragù in a separate pan, and reheat the cheese sauce if necessary.

Spoon one-eighth of the sauce on to the centre of each warmed plate and top with a sheet of cooked pasta. Repeat this, and finish with 50ml (2fl oz) or 2–3 tablespoons of cheese sauce in the centre of the top sheet of pasta, taking care not to reach the edge.

Grate plenty of Parmesan over the top of each lasagne and place under a preheated grill to melt the cheese and singe the pasta so that it starts to go golden and crisp, turning up at the edges.

Dress with olive oil and scatter the herbs over the top.

Persian beef biryani

This is a majestic dish for special occasions and events – the perfume emanating from the dish while you are turning it out will send you over the edge! Biryani is found from Iran to India and Pakistan in various guises. Not to be confused with a pilau, which is put together from raw and cooked, a biryani is always cooked before assembly and then baked to bring everything together.

15g (½oz) finely chopped garlic cloves

15g (½oz) peeled and finely chopped fresh root ginger

15g (½oz) finely chopped green chillies

800g (1lb 12oz) chuck steak

400g (14oz) basmati rice

150g (5½oz) ghee or clarified butter

1 large onion, peeled and thinly sliced

2 green peppers, deseeded and thinly sliced

75g (2¾oz) dried apricots, chopped

50g (1¾oz) golden raisins

50g (1¾oz) flaked almonds

4 small cinnamon sticks

6 black cardamom pods

6 green cardamom pods

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns, lightly crushed

½ teaspoon saffron threads

finely grated zest and juice of 1 small orange

2 carrots, grated

250ml (9fl oz) Basic Beef Broth, heated

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Crush the garlic, ginger and chillies to a smooth purée with a mortar and pestle.

Cut the beef into small strips, place in a shallow bowl and mix with the garlic, chilli and ginger paste. Cover and leave to marinate for 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 170°C (340°F), Gas Mark 3½.

Cover the basmati rice with salted cold water and leave for 1 hour, then drain and rinse. Pour boiling water over the rice in a pan and simmer for 6 minutes, then drain.

Put a large frying pan over a medium-high heat and add 2 tablespoons of ghee.

Season the beef and sauté in batches, using fresh ghee each time. Remove the beef from the pan and set aside.

Add more ghee to the pan, then add the onion and peppers and fry for 10 minutes, stirring until the onion is caramelized and the peppers are soft. Remove from the pan and set aside.

Add another tablespoon of ghee and fry the fruits, almonds, spices and orange zest on a medium heat for 4–5 minutes, stirring, until the nuts are golden brown. Add the grated carrot, cook for 2 minutes, just to soften, then remove from the heat and add the orange juice.

Brush the inside of a 20cm (8 inch) ovenproof lidded casserole dish with ghee, then line the base and sides with greaseproof paper and brush this, too, with ghee.

Spread one-fifth of the par-cooked rice over the bottom of the casserole, followed by half the onion mix and half the beef. Season, then cover the beef with another layer of rice, followed by half the spiced carrot and fruit mix, then another layer of rice, spreading out each layer evenly.

Repeat the layers, finishing with rice. Pour over any juices and the hot beef broth, then cover with a clean tea towel and the lid. Bake for 45 minutes, until the rice is light, fluffy and crisp around the edges. Turn out on to a large platter, peel away the greaseproof paper and serve.

La Macaronade

An authentic Macaronade is made from the juices of a meat stew such as the daube or estouffade of southern France. Once the noodles are cooked, they are moistened with the wine-rich broth, layered with freshly grated Parmesan cheese and browned in the oven. This is a version I’ve been serving for years as a side, or as a dish in its own right.

250g (9oz) elbow (short) macaroni

250ml (9fl oz) Braised Short Ribs cooking liquid

100g (3½oz) Parmesan cheese, finely grated

50g (1¾oz) bone marrow, chopped

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F), Gas Mark 2.

Bring a pan of salted water to the boil and cook the macaroni for 10 minutes, or according to the packet instructions. Drain and reserve.

Mix the braised beef cooking liquid with half the cheese and the blanched hot macaroni and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the bone marrow and mix to combine. Scoop into an ovenproof pot or baking dish and sprinkle the top with the remaining cheese, then bake for 10–15 minutes.

Finish under the grill, until the cheese is golden and bubbling, then allow to sit for a few minutes before serving.

Beef & the environment

Critics of the environmental impact of cattle farming assert that thousands of litres of water are required for every kilogram of beef reared. However, this claim is based on intensive farming practices connected with grain-fed beef. Grass-fed cattle are not voracious consumers of water, as they get most of their needs from grass, which can be as much as 75 per cent water. The most striking attribute of beef is that it can live on a simple diet of grass, which it forages for itself – and for protecting land, water, soil and climate, there is nothing better than dense grass.

Countering global movement

Grass-fed cattle could be the key to a promising strategy for countering global warming, through carbon capture (or sequestration) and the restoration of carbon to the soil. Up to 10 per cent of all human-caused carbon emissions in the last century are thought to have come from soil. This results from tillage, which releases carbon and strips the earth of protective vegetation, and from poor farming practices that fail to return nutrients and organic matter to the earth. Grazing pasture is ideal for carbon sequestration through photosynthesis and for holding it in stable forms in the soil; read on to find out how.

One of the worst greenhouse gases, methane, is produced by micro-organisms known as methanogens under anaerobic conditions (without oxygen), in animals and their manure. However, as beef manure is typically applied to the land while fresh, the anaerobic conditions necessary for methane production are impaired. The manure therefore accounts for only around 5 per cent of man-made emissions, and, in fact, pastured cattle have almost no carbon footprint.

Approaches as intuitive as good pasture management and as obscure as plentiful dung-beetle populations have been shown to reduce methane. Dung beetles encourage the growth of healthy grass through their burrowing in soil, which aerates it and allows rainwater and nutrients into the ground. The cattle manure provides nutrients to the dung beetles, which are in turn fed upon by birds and other creatures, and plants quickly utilize the readily available nitrogen in the urine. Most of the nutrients in the manure are a valuable source of fertilizer when applied to surrounding grassland, reducing the reliance on fertilizers and increasing the organic matter in soils.

What’s more, grazing cattle stimulate vegetative growth through the “pruning” effect of their mouths, the trampling of their hoofs and the action of their digestive tracts, which promote seed germination and the recycling of nutrients. These beneficial disturbances, like those once created by wild grazing herds, help keep woody shrubs at bay and benefit grassland ecosystems, of which they are an integral part. They play an important role, with nutrients in manure and urine being dispersed as cattle move through the pasture seeking new areas to graze.

Research by the UK Soil Association shows that if cattle are raised principally on grass, and if good farming practices are followed, enough carbon could be sequestered to offset the methane emissions of all UK beef cattle, plus half the country’s dairy herd.

Environmental gains

Grass is also one of the best ways to generate and safeguard soil and to protect water. Grass blades shield soil from erosive wind and water, while the roots form a mat that holds soil and water in place. According to soil experts, erosion from conventionally tilled fields can be between 10 and 100 times greater than from fields with native vegetation, such as that which is typically found on well-managed grazing lands. In fact, good pasturing technique can actually build soil.

As we consider the long-term prospects for feeding the rapidly expanding population of the human race, correctly raised, grass-fed cattle remain an essential element. Ruminants are the only livestock that can effectively convert hay – a byproduct of arable farming – into high-quality protein for human consumption. Raising beef cattle on grass is an environmental gain for the planet.

My perfect roast

Temperatures & timings

Resting

Carving

Slow-roast rump of beef

Roast potatoes

Mead-braised carrots & shallots

Mustard greens

Roast rib of beef

Roast chateaubriand

Collard greens & gravy

Meatballs

Meatloaf

Meatball sandwich

French dip

Roast veal with boiled eggs & anchovy cream

Veal chop Pojarski

Roast veal kidney with mustard

Health & beef

My perfect roast

First you need to decide what cut you want. You can roast many parts of a cow. Classic roasting cuts, however, include silverside, topside, rump, sirloin, fillet or chateau and fore rib. All but the fore rib are usually sold boneless. If you’re nervous about carving meat, the fore rib may not be tempting, but personally, I like to roast on the bone as I believe you end up with a more succulent piece of meat. If you must go boneless, I recommend rump, although it’s not often sold as a roasting joint. For a smaller joint, you could do worse than rolled rib-eye, which is cut from the centre (or “eye”) of the ribs.

Your beef should be dark in colour, indicating that it is well hung and mature. It should have a thick layer of yellow fat, which adds flavour and prevents it from drying out. Some visible marbling is good, but not excessive and certainly not thick clumps of fat. Remember, good marbling laid down slowly is often barely visible to the eye – but it’s still there and will still moisten your roast.

Next you’ll need to decide how much to buy. Don’t worry about buying too much as everyone loves cold roast beef! As a guide, a 2kg (4½lb) bone-in or 1.4kg (3lb) boneless cut will feed six.

Temperatures & timings

Let the beef come to room temperature by removing it from the refrigerator at least an hour before cooking; this is called “tempering” in chef-speak. While your beef is tempering, you’ll need to decide on the cooking temperature, which is obviously a personal preference and might even vary among members of the family. There are several opinions about the perfect temperature at which to cook roast beef, but in my experience starting the beef in a hot oven – 220°C (425°F), Gas Mark 7 – for the first 20 minutes, then reducing the temperature to 160°C (320°F), Gas Mark 2½ for the remaining cooking time will give you the best results. How long that remaining cooking time is depends on how you like to eat your roast beef.

•   On the bone, medium-rare: 30 minutes per kg (14 minutes per lb) or until an internal temperature of 60°C (140°F) is reached.

•   On the bone, medium: 35 minutes per kg (16 minutes per lb) or until an internal temperature of 65°C (150°F) is reached.

•   On the bone, medium-well done: 40 minutes per kg (18 minutes per lb) or until an internal temperature of 70°C (160°F) is reached.

Resting

After roasting the beef, turn the oven off completely and allow the meat to start its resting period inside the oven, with its residual heat, for 20 minutes or so. The fibres in meat tighten up during cooking, and resting allows them to relax, releasing some of the meat juices, which results in a more tender piece of meat. Once it is removed from the oven, the meat then continues to rest. After 30 minutes’ rest (in total), the joint is ready to carve, but you can leave it for up to an hour in a warm place – until its internal temperature is 55°C (130°F) – and its characteristics and indeed the flavour of the joint will improve over this time.

Carving

It’s not over yet. Yes, I know the smell is killing you and, yes, you’ve probably sneaked a crispy bit while no one is looking – that’s the cook’s prerogative. If you’ve sourced a beautiful, properly hung piece of beef from a good herd, and have cooked and rested it carefully, it would be a terrible crime not to carve it properly.

First off, make sure your knives are sharp – the sharper the better. Always cut on a carving board. It’s best not to use too much pressure when carving; let the knife do the work and use long, even strokes. You are looking for even, uniform slices that will look appetizing when neatly arranged on the plate. Too much pressure alters the shape of your roast and makes for uneven, misshapen slices, which get worse the further into the joint you carve. Keep an eye on the end of the knife, making sure it’s in line with the handle, to avoid cutting wedges instead of slices. When carving a bone-in joint, take care not to scrape the bone, which would blunt your knife. Light use of a carving fork is sensible – not buried up to the hilt, but just holding the joint in place.

As to thickness, assuming you’ve chosen your meat wisely and cooked it judiciously, then the thickness of the slices is a matter of personal choice. I plump for thicker slices, confident in the knowledge that my roast is tender and juicy, as they will hold on to their heat much longer than thinner slices.

Slow-roast rump of beef

Rump makes a great flavoursome roast, but can sometimes be a little tough – cooking low and slow combats this and helps keep the meat fibres tender. It’s important the meat is cut from a single muscle in the rump to avoid those meat fibres running in different directions when carving.

1kg (2lb 4oz) beef rump

beef dripping

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

You will also need

a meat thermometer

To serve

Yorkshire Pudding

Roast Potatoes

Mead-braised Carrots & Shallots

Mustard Greens

Madeira Gravy

Remove the beef from the fridge 1 hour before cooking. Preheat the oven to 75°C (170°F), Gas-as-low-as-it-will-go. Place a large griddle over a high heat and add some beef dripping. Once the griddle is smoking hot, season the meat with lots of salt and pepper, then sear the rump all over the surface.

Place it in a roasting tin and roast for 4 hours, removing it when the internal temperature of the meat reaches 57°C (135°F) for medium-rare and 60°C (140°F) for medium.

Leave to rest for at least 20 minutes while you make the Yorkshires, by which time the internal temperature will have risen by a couple of degrees. Serve with Yorkshire Pudding, Roast Potatoes, Mead-braised Carrots & Shallots, Mustard Greens and Madeira Gravy.

Roast potatoes

I used to put bowls of these crispy, beefy golden roast potatoes on the bar of my pub the Albion every weekend, an East End London tradition. Leftover “roasties” make great hash and bubble and squeak, and are good smashed, then mixed with grated cheese, baked until gooey, and garnished with chopped spring onions.

Serves 4–6

1kg (2lb 4oz) roasting potatoes, peeled and cut into rough large chunks

200ml (7fl oz) beef dripping

1 garlic bulb, smashed

1 rosemary sprig

Maldon sea salt flakes

Boil the potatoes in heavily salted water until cooked through. Drain thoroughly, then toss the potatoes several times to roughen the edges. Allow to air-dry and cool, tossing again to roughen the edges still further.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas Mark 6. Heat the beef dripping in roasting trays and add the garlic and potatoes. Roast in the oven for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven, season, add the rosemary, then toss the potatoes to mix thoroughly.

Return the potatoes to the oven for another 30 minutes, giving them the occasional toss.

When cooked through with a golden crust, remove from the oven and serve with your roast.

Mead-braised carrots & shallots

Serves 4–6

250g (9oz) banana shallots

30ml (about 2 tablespoons) olive oil

100g (3½oz) smoked bacon lardons.

3 garlic cloves

3 thyme sprigs

250g (9oz) carrots

50ml (2fl oz) cider vinegar

250ml (9fl oz) medium/sweet mead

250ml (9fl oz) chicken stock

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas Mark 4.

Peel the shallots and toss with the oil, a good teaspoon of salt, black pepper, the bacon lardons, garlic and thyme and place in a cast-iron casserole dish. Cook in the oven, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes until the shallots are golden.

Add the carrots and deglaze the casserole (stir and scrape any sticky bits on the base of the casserole) with the vinegar followed by the mead.

Allow the vinegar and mead to reduce by one-third on the hob before adding the chicken stock and returning to the oven for a further 10 minutes. Season to taste before serving.

Mustard greens

High in vitamins A and K, mustard greens (Brassica juncea) are more pungent than the closely related cabbage greens (Brassica oleracea), and are frequently mixed with these milder leaves in a dish of “mixed greens”. Here I’ve gone the other way and intensified the heat of the leaves even further with a mustard dressing.

Serves 4

800g (1lb 12oz) mustard greens, washed

For the mustard dressing

50g (1¾oz) Dijon mustard

200ml (7fl oz) extra virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Whisk all the dressing ingredients together.

Blanch the mustard greens briefly in boiling water, then refresh in cold water.

Reheat the greens in boiling salted water, then drain and toss with a generous amount of mustard dressing. Season to taste and serve.

Roast rib of beef

A roast rib of beef or a standing rib roast is the king of roasts – large and impressive, it is helped by layers of tasty fat running through the meat keeping it juicy and flavoursome. My favourite.

1.5kg (3lb 5oz) aged rib of beef, on the bone

beef dripping

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

You will also need

a meat thermometer

Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas Mark 7.

Massage the whole joint with soft beef dripping and season lightly, all over, with salt and pepper. Place on a roasting tray and put into the oven. Cook on this high heat for about 20 minutes, until the meat is well browned and sizzling in the pan. Then reduce the oven temperature to 160°C (325°F), Gas Mark 3 for a further 20 minutes, or until the internal temperature of the meat reaches 57°C (135°F) for medium-rare or 60°C (140°F) for medium (my preference for this cut).

Remove from the oven, place the joint on a warm serving plate or carving tray, and leave to rest for no less than 30 minutes before carving and serving.

Roast chateaubriand

Chateaubriand comes from the end of the fillet and is also called rump fillet by some butchers. It is extremely tender, but lacks the flavour of rump or rib. It’s also rather expensive, but if tender beef is what floats your boat then this is the cut for you.

1kg (2lb 4oz) Chateaubriand roast (the top, thick part of the tenderloin), trimmed of fat and silver skin, and tied at 1cm (½ inch) intervals with butcher’s twine

20g (¾oz) beef dripping

20g (¾oz) unsalted butter

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

You will also need

a meat thermometer

To serve

Collard Greens & Gravy

Beef Dripping Chips

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas Mark 6.

Remove the beef from the fridge and let it sit at room temperature for 1 hour, then season liberally with salt and pepper.

Heat the dripping in a large ovenproof sauté pan over a high heat. Sear the meat until browned on all sides, about 8 minutes in total. Reduce the heat to low, and add the butter. Once the butter has melted, baste the meat with it, using a spoon. Put the pan into the oven for 5 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 160°C (325°F), Gas Mark 3 and cook until the internal temperature reaches 55°C (130°F) at the thickest part of the roast. Place the meat on a cutting board and let it rest for 30 minutes.

To serve, remove the twine from the meat, slice into 4 portions, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve with Collard Greens & Gravy and Beef Dripping Chips.

Collard greens & gravy

Serves 4

Trim 800g (1lb 12oz) of collard greens and wash them well. Blanch for 5 minutes in boiling seasoned water and drain well. Mix with ½ recipe of Braised Shallots & Garlic with Bone Marrow, then correct the seasoning and serve with grilled steak or Roast Chateaubriand.

Meatballs

My instinct has always been to eschew any filler in a meat recipe in favour of MAXIMUM MEAT! However, I’ve come to understand that filler, in this case breadcrumbs, is integral for holding on to juices and flavour. Without it all the good stuff leaches out, leaving behind a dry meatball, and nobody likes a dry meatball. This mixture can also be formed into a meatloaf and baked as opposite.

100g (3½oz) white bread, cubed

100ml (3½fl oz) buttermilk

1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped

6 garlic cloves, crushed

100g (3½oz) Parmesan cheese, finely grated

½ bunch of flat leaf parsley, chopped

2 free-range eggs

100ml (3½fl oz) cold Basic Beef Broth

1 teaspoon ground fennel seeds

400g (14oz) minced beef (ideally short rib), 20% fat content

400g (14oz) minced veal shoulder

100g (3½oz) bone marrow, chopped

beef dripping, for frying

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

For the sauce

2 onions, peeled and chopped

2 shallots, peeled and chopped

1 garlic bulb, cloves chopped

100ml (3½fl oz) olive oil

2 x 400g (14oz) cans chopped tomatoes

1 faggot of herbs (thyme, oregano, bay leaf, rosemary)

Start with the sauce. Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F), Gas Mark 3. In a deep casserole, fry the onions, shallots and garlic in the olive oil until translucent. Add the canned tomatoes and the faggot of herbs, bring to the boil, cover and place in the oven for 1 hour. Whiz with a stick blender, then pass through a fine sieve back into the pan and correct the seasoning.

Combine the bread with the buttermilk, tossing to coat. Let it stand until the bread is completely moist, about 10 minutes. Add the onion, garlic, half the grated Parmesan, the parsley, eggs, cold beef broth and fennel seeds. Season well, then add the minced meats and bone marrow and mix until thoroughly blended with the bread mixture.

Form the meat mixture into golfball-sized balls and fry in beef dripping until coloured all over. Add to the tomato sauce, cover and cook in the oven for 20 minutes.

Serve the meatballs with either pasta or polenta, spooning the sauce all over and grating the remaining Parmesan on top.

Meatloaf

Rarely seen in restaurants, meatloaf is a proper “home-cooked” meal. My version makes use of the meatball recipe opposite, and is also not bad straight from the fridge, sliced and eaten cold in a sandwich.

For the meatballs/meatloaf

1 x recipe Meatballs mixture, mixed, but not rolled into balls

For the glaze

ready-made barbecue sauce

Madeira Gravy

You will also need

a meat thermometer

Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F) Gas Mark 3. Place the meatball mixture on a baking sheet and use your hands to gently form it into a rustic loaf shape, about 20cm (8 inches) long and 15cm (6 inches) wide. Place the meat mixture in a 450g (1lb) loaf tin lined with nonstick baking paper and use your hands to flatten the top.

Next make your glaze. In a small bowl add equal quantities of barbecue sauce and Madeira Gravy and stir to combine. Slather the glaze all over the meatloaf, then bake for about 1 hour, basting with the glaze halfway through, until the internal temperature registers 75°C (167°F). Allow to rest for 20 minutes before serving with extra Madeira Gravy.

Meatball sandwich

A much-abused Italian-American classic sandwich which, when made using prime ingredients and with care and attention, can sing and be very special.

4 large soft bread rolls

extra virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove

½ recipe of Meatballs

100g (3½oz) Parmesan cheese

200g (7oz) mozzarella cheese, cut into 8 slices

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas Mark 4.

Warm the rolls in the oven for 5–10 minutes, then cut them in half lengthways.

Drizzle the cut sides of each roll half with olive oil and rub with a cut clove of garlic until fragrant. Arrange the bottom roll halves on a baking sheet, cut sides up, and spoon a generous layer of the meatball tomato sauce on to each.

Slice each meatball in half and arrange on top of the tomato sauce, overlapping as necessary for even coverage. Spoon more tomato sauce on top of the meatball halves and grate the Parmesan all over.

Lay slices of mozzarella on top of the meatballs. Transfer the baking sheet to the oven and bake for about 4 minutes, until the cheese is fully melted. Warm the top roll halves in the oven for the last minute of cooking. Close the sandwiches and serve immediately.

French dip

Two LA restaurants claim to be the originators of the French dip sandwich, Philippe The Original and Cole’s Pacific Electric Buffet. In the name of research I visited both, and they are very similar: the roll is dipped in the hot beef juices before assembly and is served “wet” or “double-dipped” and au jus, with more jus and mustard on the side. Both restaurants were established in 1908. However, Cole’s claims to have originated the sandwich shortly after the restaurant opened in 1908, while Philippe’s claims that owner Philippe Mathieu invented it in 1918. Whatever the truth is, a French Dip is a mighty sandwich indeed. My interpretation includes cheese and onion, which can be left out if you favour authenticity.

200ml (7fl oz) Basic Beef Broth

roast beef juices and drippingsfrom the roast beef

15–20cm (6–8 inch) small soft French stick

1 tablespoon American mustard, French’s for preference

2–3 tablespoons Onion Confit, optional

200g (7oz) rare Roast Rib of Beef, very thinly sliced

50g (1¾oz) sliced Cheddar or, if you can find it, Ogleshield cheese

To make your jus: deglaze the beef roasting dish with beef broth, then pour in any roasting juices and dripping. Reduce to your taste (but authentic au jus is quite thin).

Slice the bread in half and toast the cut sides. Spread mustard on the bottom half of the bread and dip the top side of the bread in the prepared jus or gravy.

Pile the onions, if using, on to the bottom half of the bread, then the warm, sliced roast rib on top. Scatter over the cheese and place under a preheated grill until it melts.

Place the lid on top and serve with more jus on the side for dipping.

Roast veal with boiled eggs & anchovy cream

Loosely based on the Italian vitello tonnato, this is great on a Victorian-style cold cuts board. Known as lunch or deli meats, cold cuts are reappearing on restaurant menus – and that can only be a good thing.

800g (1lb 12oz) rose veal rump

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 free-range eggs, Burford Browns for preference

200ml (7fl oz) Anchovy Cream

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

To garnish

salted anchovy fillets

deep-fried parsley

thyme sprigs

Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F), Gas Mark 3.

Lightly season the veal rump, then heat the olive oil in a frying pan over a high heat. Add the veal and seal on all sides until golden brown all over. Place in the oven and roast for 30 minutes, then turn the oven off and leave the meat inside to cool.

Cook the eggs in boiling water for 4 minutes and remove from the heat, leaving them to cool in their water.

When everything is at room temperature, remove the veal rump from the oven and set aside. Peel the eggs and slice. Rinse the salt from the anchovies and pat dry on kitchen paper.

Thinly slice the roast veal on to a platter and dress with the Anchovy Cream and slices of boiled egg. Garnish with anchovy fillets, deep-fried parsley and thyme sprigs. A suitable side might be potato salad.

Veal chop Pojarski

An authentic Veal Pojarski is really a giant meatball reformed around its bone, created by Pojarsky for Czar Nicholas I of Russia. My conscience won’t allow me to chop the loin off the meat, so this is my version.

4 x 250g (9oz) untrimmed tomahawk rose veal chops

100g (3½oz) white bread, chopped

200ml (7fl oz) milk

1 free-range egg

2 tablespoons beef dripping

100g (3½oz) caul fat, soaked and washed in cold water

250g (9oz) unsalted butter

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

cooked spinach

toast

Braised Shallots & Garlic with Bone Marrow

lemon wedges

Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas Mark 4.

Trim the meat off the long bones, keeping the eyes of the chops attached to the bone – you could ask your butcher to do this for you, and he/she might even mince it for you! If not, chop all the trimmed meat very finely (you could also use a food processor).

Soak the bread in the milk and mix with the chopped veal. Add the egg and season aggressively with salt and pepper.

Heat a spoonful of beef dripping in a frying pan, then season the trimmed chops, add to the hot pan and colour all over but without cooking through. Remove from the pan and allow to cool. Top one side of each chop with a ball of the chopped veal mixture and mould it over the top.

Spread out your washed caul fat and wrap each veal chop in a parcel-like fashion, leaving the bone totally exposed.

Heat a large cocotte dish or ovenproof sauté pan with the remaining spoonful of dripping and fry the wrapped chops until coloured all over. Add the butter and allow to foam, then spoon this foaming butter all over the chops and place in the preheated oven for 20 minutes.

Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 20 minutes, then serve with cooked spinach on toast, Braised Shallots & Garlic with Bone Marrow and lemon wedges.

Tomahawk chops are also known as bone-in rib-eye steaks with the bones left long.

Roast veal kidney with mustard

A version of this was on the menu at Le Gavroche way back in the late Eighties, and it’s one of my favourite offal dishes even now. The Roux version, rognon de veau aux trois moutardes, was made with the addition of tarragon mustard.

100g (3½oz) unsalted butter

1 whole veal kidney, about 400g (14oz) in weight, in its caul fat

1 banana shallot, finely chopped

100ml (3½fl oz) dry white wine

100ml (3½fl oz) double cream

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon grain mustard

1 teaspoon thyme leaves

Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

fresh egg noodles, pasta or toast, to serve

Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas Mark 7.

Heat a heavy-based cast-iron pan and add half the butter. Season the whole kidney liberally, add to the pan and colour all over, then place in the preheated oven for 5 minutes. Turn the kidney over, spooning the foaming butter over the top, and roast for a further 5 minutes, until the outside of the kidney is golden and crispy. Remove from the oven and place on a warm plate to rest.

Pour off the excess fat from the pan and add the shallot. Sauté until translucent, then add the white wine, let it reduce by two-thirds, and add the cream. Bring to a simmer, then add the mustards, the remaining butter and the thyme. Correct the seasoning and remove from the heat.

Slice the kidney and serve with fresh egg noodles or pasta or toast and the mustard sauce. Or I really love this on toast!

Health & beef

It’s safe to say that red meat has been persistently vilified for many of the ills of Western society, with meat consumption increasingly blamed for everything from cancer to heart disease. The press fills its front pages with fear-fuelled headlines about red meat, but the claims are ill-founded and misleading.

The flaw in these scare stories is that they don’t differentiate between intensively farmed and extensively farmed beef. When compared with beef that is intensively farmed, well-reared, high welfare beef routinely has less total fat, more omega-3 fatty acids, more conjugated linoleic acid and more antioxidant vitamins. (These are all good things.)

One of the reasons for this difference is that in order to achieve large increases in production, modern farming uses aggressive, intensive farming techniques, with feeds that are rich in omega-6 fats, as opposed to grass, which is naturally higher in omega-3 fatty acids and vitamins. Consequently, the nutrient content in much of our beef is reduced.

Vitamins

Consumption of high-quality beef can contribute significantly to overall vitamin intake. It contains a vitamin D metabolite which is assimilated much more quickly and easily than other dietary forms of vitamin D. It also has significant levels of B vitamins, including thiamine, riboflavin, pantothenic acid, folate, niacin, vitamin B6 and vitamin B12, all vital to proper functioning of nearly every system in your body. B12 deficiency can play a role in everything from ageing, neurological disorders and mental illness to cancer, cardiovascular disease and infertility.

Minerals

Beef contains haem (or heme) iron, a form that is absorbed and utilized much more efficiently than the non-haem iron found in plant foods. Furthermore, even small amounts of meat can aid in the absorption of non-haem iron. This is particularly important for women in pregnancy, as iron is crucial for the growth of the developing foetal brain.

Beef is also an important source of the essential mineral zinc. As with vitamin D and iron, the zinc present in beef is highly bioavailable – even a small amount of beef in the diet can increase zinc utilization from all sources. Zinc is crucial to many physiological functions, and people eating meat-free diets are at greater risk of zinc deficiency. In addition, beef contains significant levels of other vital minerals such as magnesium, copper, cobalt, phosphorus, chromium, nickel and selenium.

Fatty acids

Where grass-fed beef really shines is in its fatty acid profile. The ratio of saturated to monounsaturated to polyunsaturated fat in beef is similar regardless of the animal’s diet – so, irrespective of whether your beef is grain-fed or grass-fed, you’ll be getting about 40–50 per cent saturated fat, about 40–50 per cent monounsaturated fat and somewhere near 10 per cent polyunsaturated fat.

However, the diet of the cow does significantly influence the types of each fat present. Within the broad categories of saturated, monounsaturated and polyunsaturated, there are several individual fatty acids with different chemical compositions, each of which has a unique effect on your body. The two fatty acids you are probably most familiar with are omega-3 and omega-6, both of which are polyunsaturated. Recent research indicates that although beef contains consistent levels of omega-6 regardless of diet, significantly higher levels of omega-3 are found in grass-fed beef. Depending on the breed of cow, grass-fed beef contains between two and five times more omega-3 than grain-fed beef does.

Omega-3 fats are essential for normal growth in humans, and they may play an important role in the prevention and treatment of coronary heart disease, obesity, hypertension, arthritis, autoimmune disorders and cancer. These fats cannot be made in the body and so must come from our diet. We need sufficient amounts of both omega-6 and omega-3 fats, but they must be balanced for normal development. If the ratio of omega-6 fats to omega-3 fats in our diet exceeds 4:1, we may be more prone to health problems. This is especially significant because intensively farmed beef can have ratios that exceed 20:1, whereas extensively farmed beef is down to around 3:1.

There are three main types of saturated fat found in red meat: stearic acid, palmitic acid and myristic acid. Grass-fed beef consistently contains a higher proportion of stearic acid, which does not raise blood cholesterol levels. This higher proportion of stearic acid means, of course, that grass-fed beef contains lower proportions of palmitic and myristic acid, which can raise cholesterol.

Conjugated linoleic acid (CLA) is a type of polyunsaturated fat that appears to be a potent antioxidant, and research indicates that it might be protective against heart disease, diabetes and cancer. Beef is one of the best dietary sources of CLA, and grass-fed beef contains an average of two to three times more CLA than grain-fed beef. This is because grain-based diets reduce the pH (alkalinity) of the digestive system in ruminant animals, which inhibits the growth of the bacterium that produces CLA.

Other antioxidants

Grass-fed meat also contains other antioxidants in greater proportions than grain-fed beef does. Carotenoids, such as beta-carotene, are precursors to vitamin A that are found as pigments in plants. Grain-fed beef does not contain appreciable levels of carotenoids, for the simple reason that grains don’t contain them. However, cattle that eat carotenoid-rich grass and forage are incorporating significant amounts of these compounds into their tissues. The carotenoids make the fat from grass-fed beef more yellow than the fat from grain-fed beef, so fat colour can be a good indicator of how nutrient-rich your meat is.

Grass-fed beef also contains significantly more of the antioxidants vitamin E, glutathione, superoxide dismutase and catalase than grain-fed beef. These antioxidants play an important role in protecting our cells from oxidation, especially delicate fats in the cell membrane such as omega-3 and omega-6. Antioxidants such as vitamin E and beta-carotene also work together synergistically to protect the meat itself from damage during the journey from butcher to plate. These antioxidants are especially important if you choose to fry or grill your meat, because those high-heat cooking methods can be more damaging to meat than wet, low-heat methods such as stewing or braising.

Testosterone

There is strong evidence that extensively farmed beef can be part of a healthy and balanced diet, and if that isn’t enough, Timothy Ferriss asserts in his book The 4-Hour Body that eating grass-fed steak can increase testosterone significantly. Why might that be of interest, you ask. Men whose testosterone levels are slightly above average are less likely to have high blood pressure, to experience a heart attack, to be obese and to rate their own health as only fair or poor. And according to Ferriss, they are also more likely to have an active sex life. But, men don’t have the monopoly on testosterone – although women produce and require less of this hormone, it’s still an important part of their health, helping with the same things.

You are what you eat

When it comes to red meat, quality makes a big difference. While not everyone can afford grass-fed meat, it is more nutrient-dense than grain-fed meat is, so even though it is more expensive, you’re getting more nutrition gram for gram. The saying “you are what you eat” applies to cows as well as to humans. There are significant differences in the nutrient quality of beef depending on how the animal was fed, which is why extensively farmed grass-fed beef is a better choice than intensively farmed grain-fed beef. In fact, I consider extensively farmed grass-fed red meat to be one of the healthiest foods you can eat.

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Index

A

Aberdeen Angus

ageing beef

anchovy

cream 1,   2,   3

Gentleman’s relish

hollandaise

potato & Parmesan gratin

salsa verde

toast with chopped steak

apples, chipotle ketchup

asparagus

avocado

guacamole

salsa criolla

B

bacon cheese sliders

barbacoa

Basque import beef

beans, green

beef bourguignon

beef dripping fries 1,   2

beef jerky

beef rendang

beef à la stroganov

beef tea 1,   2

beef Wellington

beetroot

fried

kraut

salsa criolla

smashed grilled

Belted Galloway

beurre noisette

biltong

biryani, Persian

blade 1,   2

blue cheese gnocchi gratin

boiled beef & carrots

bollito misto, with salsa verde

Bombay duck

bone marrow

charcoal-grilled with toast

dumplings 1,   2

gravy

hollandaise

& onion gravy

& pennybun sauce

pot au feu 1,   2

preserved

with roast corn grits

with shallots & garlic

steak sausages

toast & chopped steak

brains, calf’s, with potatoes & lemon

braising steak 1,   2

brasato al Barolo

bread-based dishes

bone marrow toast with chopped steak

burger buns 1,   2,   3

cheeseburger toastie

chopped steak with anchovy toast

creamed spinach on toast

French dip sandwich

meatball sandwich

potato & garlic trencher

Reubenesque sandwich

sourdough

steak sandwich

bresaola

brining, ox tongue

brisket 1,   2

bollito misto

pot au feu

pot roast

smoked

Vietnamese pho

British White

broth 1,   2

bully beef

buns, burger

burger

buns 1,   2,   3

cheese

cheeseburger toastie

green chilli cheese

kimchi

mustard fried onion

umami cheese

butchery

butter

beurre noisette

caviar

cooking in 1,   2

garlic

Gentleman’s relish

marchand de vin

C

cabbage

beet kraut

kimchi

kimchi kraut

salad

sancochado

calves’ foot jelly

carbonnade à la Flamande

carpaccio

carrots 1,   2,   3

carving

cattle

breeds 1,   2

environmental impact

feed 1,   2,   3

grass-fed 1,   2,   3,   4

older beef

rearing

slaughter

caul fat

cauliflower

cheese

& jerked steak

caviar butter

cecina

charcoal cooking

Charolais

chateaubriand roast

cheek

bollito misto

daube de boeuf

ox cheek & IPA curry

& tail terrine

cheese

& bacon sliders

burger

cheeseburger toastie

curds

green chilli burger

hollandaise

macaroni

meatball sandwich

sauce

truffled Tunworth

umami burger

chicken fried

round of beef

steak

chilli

adobo chilli sauce

chilli con carne

green chilli adobo

green chilli cheeseburger

salsa mexicana

zhoug

Chinese cabbage 1,   2,   3

chipotle ketchup

choron sauce

chuck 1,   2

clinching

clod and sticking 1,   2

collagen

collard greens & gravy

confit, garlic/onion

cooking temperatures 1,   2

corn on the cob

creamed corn

roast grits with bone marrow & truffle

sancochado

cornbread

corned beef

hash

Cornish pasty 1,   2

cottage pies

cowheel pie

cucumber

bread & butter pickles

half sours

salad

cured meat

beef jerky

biltong

bresaola

cecina

fillet steak

pastrami

salt beef

curry

beef rendang

British Army

Burmese beef

ox cheek & IPA

D

dairy, buying

daube de boeuf

Devon breed

Dexter

direct cooking

dirty cooking

jerked steak & cauliflower

roasted steak

dumplings 1,   2,   3

E

eggs

buying

with hash 1,   2

hollandaise sauce

with roast veal

with spinach

empanada chilena

environmental issues

extensive farming 1,   2

F

fajitas, steak

feet

calves’ foot jelly

cowheel pie

pig’s trotter garnish

fennel

fillet of beef

à la ficelle

beef Wellington

French spaghetti bolognese

fillet steak

fish, buying

flank

flanken cut short ribs

foie gras

beef Wellington

garnish

Tournedos Rossini

fore rib

Frankfurters 1,   2

French dip sandwich

fried beef floss

fries, beef dripping 1,   2

fruit, buying

G

Galician Blond

bullock beef

garlic

butter

confit

golden

green chilli adobo

hollandaise

& shallots, with bone marrow

garnishes

burgers 1,   2,   3

steak 1,   2,   3

Gentleman’s relish

Gloucester breed

gnocchi gratin

goulash, Hungarian

gravy

bone marrow

& collard greens

French dip sandwich

la macaronade

Madeira

mustard

onion

green sauce

gremolata

guacamole

H

half sours

hash

corned beef

kimchi

health and safety 1,   2

heart

beef tea

calf’s, charcoal-grilled

ox, grilled

Hereford breed

Highland breed

hollandaise sauce

horseradish

creamed

hollandaise

snow

wasabi

hot dogs

kimchi

Hungarian goulash

I

indirect cooking

ingredients

intensive farming 1,   2,   3

J

jerked steak & cauliflower

jowl

K

kalbi ribs

kale, salad

kebabs

beef satay

West African suya

ketchup

chipotle

kimchi

kidney

roast veal

& steak pudding

kielbasa

kimchi

burger

hash

hollandaise

hot dogs

kalbi ribs

ketchup

kraut

knives 1,   2

Korean steak tartare

kuli-kuli

L

laab-style tripe

lasagne, open

leg 1,   2

Limousin

Lincoln Red

liver, calves’

lobster

fideuà

with garlic butter

loin cuts

Longhorn

M

macaroni see pasta

Madeira gravy

maillard

marbling

marchand de vin butter

mayonnaise

lemon parsley

tuna

meat 1,   2

butchery

buying 1,   2,   3,   4

cutting steaks

eating 1,   2

hanging/ageing

marbling

nutrients

older beef

raw 1,   2

resting

tempering

veal

meatballs 1,   2

sandwich

meatloaf 1,   2

Middle Eastern rub

minced beef 1,   2

mushrooms

fricassee

grilled Portobello

orzotto

pennybun & bone marrow sauce

pickled shiitake

shabu-shabu

sukiyaki

veal blanquette

mustard

fried onion burger

gravy

hollandaise

with roast veal kidney

mustard greens

N

neck cuts 1,   2

New York veal parmigiana

noodles

csipetke

see also pasta

nuggets & kimchi ketchup

nutrients

nuts, buying

O

onion

bread & butter pickles

& calves’ liver

chipotle ketchup

confit

Cornish pasty

exploding

gravy

mustard fried burger

rings

with sweet potatoes

orange hollandaise

organic meat

ossobuco Milanese

ox

charcoal roasted

cheek, barbacoa

cheek & IPA curry

heart, grilled

ox bone tea

oxtail

oxtail & cheek terrine

oxtail stew 1,   2

tongue, pickled/brined

tongue with raisins & almonds

tongue salad

Vietnamese pho

Yemeni akwa

oysters

oyster sauce

with veal chop

P

Parmesan

dressing

macaroni cheese

potato & anchovy gratin

tuille

parmigiana, New York veal

pasta

lobster fideuà

la macaronade

macaroni cheese

open lasagne

ravioli

spaghetti bolognese 1,   2

pastrami 1,   2

pastry

rough puff

short 1,   2

suet crust

pasty

Cornish 1,   2

empanada chilena

paupiettes, veal

pea shoots

pearl barley

pepper sauce

Persian beef biryani

Philly cheese steak

pho, Vietnamese

pickles

beet kraut

bread & butter

half sours

kimchi

kimchi kraut

ox tongue

shiitake

tripe

walnuts

pie

cowheel

steak & ale

pig’s trotter garnish

plate

pot au feu

pot roast

potatoes

beef dripping fries/chips 1,   2

Burmese beef curry

corned beef hash

Cornish pasty

& garlic trencher

hachis parmentier

kimchi hash

mashed 1,   2

Parmesan & anchovy gratin

roast

sancochado

potted beef

poutine

Prague powder

P’tcha

pumpkin, Burmese beef curry

R

ravioli

raw meat

carpaccio

chopped steak with anchovy toast

chopped steak with bone marrow toast

chopped veal with tuna mayo

Korean steak tartare

steak tartare

Thai beef salad

Red Angus

Red Poll

Reubenesque sandwich

rib-eye steak

ribs

braised short ribs 1,   2

cuts 1,   2

flanken cut short

hachis parmentier

kalbi

roast rib

smoked prime rib

smoked short rib

rice

coconut

Persian beef biryani

pilau

rice powder, toasted

risotto Milanese

roast beef

round of beef 1,   2,   3

rubs 1,   2

rump steak 1,   2

slow roast

S

salad

cabbage and cucumber

ox tongue

steak

Thai beef

tomato

vegetable & herb slaw

watercress

salsa criolla

salsa mexicana

salsa verde 1,   2,   3

salt 1,   2,   3

curing

salt beef

corned beef

pastrami

potted

sancochado

sandwich see bread

Santa Gertrudis

satay beef

sauce

adobo chilli

bearnaise

cheese

chipotle ketchup

choron

green

hollandaise

oyster

pennybun & bone marrow

pepper

satay

shallots & garlic with bone marrow

sukiyaki

truffle

sausages

bollito misto

Franks/hot dogs 1,   2

kielbasa

Morteau 1,   2

steak

sweetbread

Schatzker, Mark 1,   2

seasoning 1,   2

shabu-shabu

shallots 1,   2

shank

shawarma, steak

sherry hollandaise

shin 1,   2

cowheel pie

pot au feu

Vietnamese pho

short ribs 1,   2,   3,   4

Shorthorn

Sichuan beef

silverside 1,   2,   3

Simmental

sirloin 1,   2

slaw, vegetable

sliders, bacon cheese

smoked meat

barbacoa

brisket

kielbasa

pastrami

prime rib

short rib

sourdough

South Devon breed

spaghetti bolognese 1,   2

French

spices 1,   2

spinach, creamed

& shirred eggs

on toast

steak

& ale pie

beef tataki

butter-fried with golden garlic

chicken fried

cooking

cured fillet

cutting

dirty roasted

fajitas

fillet

garnishes 1,   2,   3

jerked with cauliflower

& kidney pudding

laab-style tripe

Philly cheese

porterhouse

rib-eye

rubs 1,   2

rump 1,   2

salad

sandwich

sauces

sausages

shawarma

side dishes

storing cut

storing uncut

T bone

tacos

tartare 1,   2

stew

carbonnade à la Flamande

daube de boeuf

oxtail 1,   2

Stilton hollandaise

stir-fries 1,   2

stock 1,   2

sukiyaki

Sussex breed

suya pepper

swede, in pasty

sweet potatoes

ash-baked, with onion

sancochado

sweetbreads

sausages

veal, & anchovy cream

sweetcorn see corn on the cob

T

tacos, steak

tataki beef

tea, beef 1,   2

tenderloin 1,   2

terrine, cheek & tail

Texas Longhorn

Thai beef salad

thick flank 1,   2

thick rib 1,   2

thin rib 1,   2

tofu 1,   2

tomatoes

chipotle ketchup

choron sauce

salad

salsa criolla

salsa mexicana

slow-roasted

tongue, calf’s

tongue, ox

pickled

with raisins & almonds

salad

topside 1,   2

Tournedos Rossini

tripe

honeycomb, grilled

laab style

pickled

truffle

& corn grits

sauce

Tournedos Rossini

truffled Tunworth

tuna mayonnaise

Tunworth, truffled

V

veal

blanquette

bollito misto

chopped, with tuna mayo

chops with fried oysters

chops Pojarski

ossobuco Milanese

parmigiana, New York

paupiettes

roast, with eggs & anchovy cream

roast kidney with mustard

shank, pot au feu

sweetbread sausages

sweetbreads with anchovy cream

vegetables, buying

Vietnamese beef pho

vinegar, buying

W

Wagyu

walnuts, pickled

wasabi

watercress 1,   2

Welsh Black

West African suya

White Park

wraps

steak fajitas

steak shawarma

steak tacos

Yorkshire pudding

Y

Yemeni akwa

Yorkshire pudding wrap

yukhoe

Z

zhoug

Glossary

UK

US

apple cider

hard apple cider

bacon lardons

diced bacon

back fat

fatback

baking paper/parchment

parchment paper

barbecue

grill, when referring to the appliance

beef drippings

clarified fat from beef during the cooking process

bird's-eye chilli

Thai chilli

Bolognese sauce

ragù sauce

burger mince

ground beef

caster sugar

superfine sugar

Chinese leaf cabbage

napa cabbage

chipping potatoes

use russet potatoes

cider vinegar

apple cider vinegar

clingfilm

plastic wrap

coriander

fresh cilantro (unless ground and referring to the seed)

clotted cream

a thick, spreadable cream

cornflour

cornstarch

croissant dough

crescent roll dough

deep-fat fryer

deep fryer

desiccated coconut

dry unsweetened coconut

dessertspoon

spoon that holds about 2 teaspoons

double cream

heavy cream

egg, large

U.S. super-large egg

egg, medium

U.S. large egg

escalope

scallop or cutlet

faggot of herbs

bouquet of herbs tied together with kitchen twine

fillet steak

tenderloin steak

fillet steak barrel

beef tenderloin

fish sauce

Thai fish sauce

form a sausage

form into a link-sausage shape or cylinder

ghee

clarified butter

gherkin

pickle

greaseproof paper

wax paper

griddle

ridged grill pan

hob

stove top

jelly

gelatin

joint

roast

Kilner jar

canning jar

knob

small piece, such as pat of butter

kitchen paper

paper towels

liquor

as well as referring to alcohol, in the UK liquor also refers to liquid leftover after a cooking process

Little Gem lettuce

small butterhead lettuce such as Boston lettuce

loaf tin

loaf pan

Maris piper potatoes

a variety of floury potato; use Yukon Gold as a substitute

mead

honey wine

minced beef

ground beef

mincer

grinder

muscovado sugar

brown sugar

muslin

cheesecloth

mustard powder

dry mustard

natural yogurt

plain yogurt

Ogleshield cheese

a type of semisoft Cheddar cheese

palette knife

spatula

palm sugar

if not available, substitute with brown sugar

parcel

package

pepper (e.g., red pepper)

bell pepper

pie dish

pie plate

pig's trotters

pig's feet

piping bag

pastry bag

plain flour

all-purpose flour

polenta

cornmeal

pope's eye

eye of round

potato crisps

potato chips

pudding basin

deep ovenproof dish

roasting tray

roasting pan

rocket

arugula

self-raising flour

use all-purpose flour plus 1 teaspoon baking powder per 125g of flour

semi-skimmed milk

low-fat milk

sieve

strainer; also the act of straining or sifting

silverside

bottom round roast or rump roast

single cream

light cream

spring onion

scallion; green onion

starter

appetizer

stick blender

immersion blender

streaky bacon

normal bacon

strong flour

bread flour

string

twine, as in butcher's twine or kitchen twine

sultana

golden raisin

swede

rutabaga

tap

faucet

tea towel

dish towel

Thai sticky rice

glutinous rice

tin foil

aluminum foil

Tunworth cheese

camembert-style cheese

veal fillet

boneless veal leg roast

waxy potato

red-skinned potato

white cabbage

use green cabbage

vegetable mouli

rotary food mill

Acknowledgements

The author would like to thank:

Karen McBride for reading everything and acting as my filter.

Matt Brown, Emily Kidd and Annie Rigg for their talent and help in testing and cooking.

Mark Schatzker, Jessica Wragg, Phillip Warren, Peter Hannan and James George for being my sounding boards on some of the essays.

The guys at Turner & George for their good-humoured supply of all the beef, and pandering to my weird and peculiar demands.

David Ezrine at Alfresco Concepts for loaning me the Big Green Egg used in many of the recipes and photography.

Paul Winch-Furness for being a general photog-deity and fearless shirt wearing.

Stephanie Jackson, Caroline Brown, Sybella Stephens and Juliette Norsworthy at Octopus Publishing for their continued patience and indulgence.

An Hachette UK Company

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First published in Great Britain in 2017 by Mitchell Beazley,

a division of Octopus Publishing Group Ltd

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www.octopusbooks.co.uk

Photography copyright © Paul Winch-Furness 2017

Text copyright © Richard H Turner 2017

Design and layout copyright © Octopus Publishing Group Ltd

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All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

Richard H Turner asserts his moral right to be identified as the author of this work.

eISBN: 978-178472-108-4

Publishing Director Stephanie Jackson

Managing Editor Sybella Stephens

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Food Stylist Richard H Turner

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Matthew Brown

Prop Stylist Linda Berlin

Assistant Production Manager Lucy Carter

All recipes have been tested in metric. Both imperial and metric measurements have been given in all recipes. Use one set of measurements only and not a mixture of both.

Eggs should be medium unless otherwise stated. This book contains dishes made with raw or lightly cooked eggs, and raw or cured beef. It is prudent for more vulnerable people such as pregnant and nursing mothers, invalids, the elderly, babies and young children to avoid uncooked or lightly cooked dishes.

Ovens should be preheated to the specific temperature – if using a fan-assisted oven, follow manufacturer’s instructions for adjusting the time and the temperature.